Jacked up mustang?

What you do is put the body on a truck frame. The unibody contruction simply does not lend itself to that. I know there are a few AMC products sitting on a F250 frame floating around. better off just make a roundy-rounder out of it.

First off, you can't do a body lift on a Mustang because it is a unibody car.

Second, the main problem you run into with any sort of "lifting" is that the front suspension obviously has some limitations.

Anyway, on my old mustang, when I had relegated it to beater status, I was playing around with it trying to get it a little better to drive during the winter. I put 5.0 Mustang springs in the front, and some rear coils out of an '84 Thunderbird in the back, which lifted it at least an inch. I thought it was actually pretty cool like that, I kept the swaybars, and if I would've had it in the budget I would have put small mud tires on it (I just had some knobby snow tires on there).

To be honest that is probably the max "lift" you can do with the stock front suspension and retain good driveability. Surprisingly, after doing that I didn't run into any issues with camber or tire wear.

The 5.0 springs are several inches taller than the 2.3 front springs, so they will jack up your front a bit (and you will need a spring compressor to get them in most likely). I don't know the height on the rear springs, I had a junker '84 Turbo Coupe that I pulled the engine out of, so out of curiosity I put the rear springs from it in my stang and I liked how it sat.

I did have a picture of it after I had put the springs on but I don't know where it is.

BTW the fenders will be your main limitation on tire fitment, if you can trim the fenders you could probably get a 30 or 31" tire on there (but , you might want to check before you go buying any tires or cutting anything)

I could have sworn I saw a pictured here on Stangnet of a Fox3 that had been lifted enough to fit something like 22 or 24" wheels under it. I don't remember what suspension it had, but I think there was still a stick axle under the back. Not much help, I know, but it can indeed be done.

Yeah I've seen that picture...I can only assume they built some kind of a "drop frame" for the front crossmember or something. I really don't know how they make that stuff work.

Red_LX said:

Yeah I've seen that picture...I can only assume they built some kind of a "drop frame" for the front crossmember or something. I really don't know how they make that stuff work.

Click to expand...

Around here it's with the scariest crappiest hacked up cobble jobbing one could imagine.
I had seen a caprice or something of the like with 24's or something rediculous on it like that, and they had cut the factory control arm and welded some plate to it to lengthen it. when I say plate I really mean some like 15ga sheet metal! and the weld looked like someone put chewing gum on it. horrid horrid abomination. Thankfully I have not seen the car on the street yet, just sitting at the local ghetto wheel place

I've been thinking about this since I read this post a few days ago. OK, here goes.

The back is easy, longer springs. To do it right You'll want longer & adjustable control arms to keep the drive shaft angles right. Possibly a longer drive shaft but @2-3 inches shouldn't be needed. watch the brake line flex hoses.

The front is more of a challenge. I'm not sure if its possible but if you could mount caster/camber plates in the fender well instead of in the engine bay you should move the struts down 2-3 inches. Once you know how much the struts drop, space the K-member the same amount. Might need to lengthen the steering shaft but all the steering/suspension geometry should not change. Any spacers should be thru bolted & welded to the K-member or the body so they can't move/come out & high strength bolts would be required to be anywhere near safe.

I'm not suggesting that someone should actually try this & I take no responsibility for your actions. But if you do...I WANT PICS.

I've always wanted to do something like this to a Pinto. Tall skinny snow tires in front & wide mud tires in back. Junkyard mod 2.3 (125HP should be plenty) & a T5, make it as light as possible for summer 2 tracking & add weight where required for winter drift bustin'.