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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

Just a few paint ??????????

  • Thread starter Thread starter RYC CUKR
  • Start date Start date Oct 30, 2008

RYC CUKR

Founding Member
May 19, 2002
1,437
1
38
Orlando
Oct 30, 2008
#1
  • Oct 30, 2008
  • #1
Just have a quick questions about painting my 93 convertible.

The car is being stripped to bare metal, I know I don't have to but I need some practice for my 65, and the doors, hood, fenders, trunk and bumper covers are all off. What is the best way to paint the door jambs, trunk jamb and the hood jamb? I figured the best way was to spray all the jambs on the car and then inside of the doors that is exposed, and the edge of the fender that goes under the hood. Then clear all of it and then hang all the parts back on the car, tape all the gaps, block it and then spray and clear the whole car, doing the bumpers at the same time but off the car. Is this the best way? If not suggestions would be appreciated.

Also how much epoxy primer, base coat and clear coat do I need to pick up from the paint supply house?

Thanks
 

satanas

Member
Dec 16, 2005
156
3
19
Arizona
Oct 30, 2008
#2
  • Oct 30, 2008
  • #2
well Im working on a vert also. Thats exsactly what im doing. But I kind of went all the way and drill out the rivets of the moldings. to paint evrything. I painting my jams my doors under hood , trunk and under the trunks area,oh and my engine bay.check my pictures out maybe it will help you out. i seen that you posted a coment on my rear-gas-tank-front-tilt-hood thread sorry i missed your question. But yes I will be painting of the car and then clearing then putting the car together, then painting whole car with gt kit on there. I will try to put the kit as low as I can so I can Paint a little under the original place of the kits so i can have some room to adjust without seeing that painted line. i will be posting new pictures in my thread soon.
 

RYC CUKR

Founding Member
May 19, 2002
1,437
1
38
Orlando
Oct 31, 2008
#3
  • Oct 31, 2008
  • #3
I figured I was on the right track but its nice to get some feedback to confirm it.

Do you have any idea on how much paint, clear and epoxy prime I will end up needing?

I am going to pick everything up on Monday and want make sure I don't shortchange myself.
 

satanas

Member
Dec 16, 2005
156
3
19
Arizona
Oct 31, 2008
#4
  • Oct 31, 2008
  • #4
Well I have a gallon Of paint and Its mixed with basemaker wich its mixed 1:1 ratio which i believe would make 2 gallons. I kind of think its enough. The chromabase said two coats is enough and so I think its enough..I hope. Besides we have a convertible so we don't have to paint the roof...
 

RYC CUKR

Founding Member
May 19, 2002
1,437
1
38
Orlando
Nov 1, 2008
#5
  • Nov 1, 2008
  • #5
At least we save a little bit on the cost of paint because when it comes time to replace the top we really end up paying for it. Last top I had put on cost me $750.

Once I get everything taped off I'll post some progress pics.
 

MAC'n89Blckstng

Active Member
Jun 11, 2003
1,012
4
36
NJ
Nov 1, 2008
#6
  • Nov 1, 2008
  • #6
The best and most factory looking way to paint a car is to paint it disassembled. Paint EVERYTHING off the car. That way you wont have to deal with jamb tape lines. If your painting the car two tone it must be assembled. Just be very careful when assembling the car so you dont chip the paint.
 

1987stangman

Member
Jul 12, 2006
684
24
19
Nov 1, 2008
#7
  • Nov 1, 2008
  • #7
Yep, I bought a Ranger pickup for my son and I just did a basic sand and prep and painted it 2 stage. We rremoved everthing including the bed and sprayed it. I stripped the interior and painted the jambs and doors too. More work but looks more like you tried!
 

RYC CUKR

Founding Member
May 19, 2002
1,437
1
38
Orlando
Nov 1, 2008
#8
  • Nov 1, 2008
  • #8
Mine is the two tone. Medium blue upper with the titanium ground effects below the body moulding.

Got just one last little spot on the cowl to strip and then I'll get it masked up and ready to in primer.
 

MAC'n89Blckstng

Active Member
Jun 11, 2003
1,012
4
36
NJ
Nov 1, 2008
#9
  • Nov 1, 2008
  • #9
If its the factory two tone you done need it to be assembled since the ground effects are the two tone line. Im two toning my car along the body line so that's why Im painting it assembled. I highly recommend painting it apart. Looks way nicer IMO.
 

SVT32VDOHC

waiting for the next hack atta
Founding Member
Nov 22, 2001
3,501
28
119
Motor City
Nov 2, 2008
#10
  • Nov 2, 2008
  • #10
You have it right. When I was working on Hack Job, I stripped it to the bare metal, then fixed whatever dents and dings I had. I blocked all that down and primed those spots repeatedly until they were flat. I then used Nason's Urethane 2K primer on the whole car. I sprayed one heavy coat, blocked it down with 150. I then sprayed a 2nd coat and blocked it lightly with 150, then 320. I then sprayed the car with 1 coat of Dupoint white sealer. Let that dry 30 minutes, then sprayed 3 coats of Nason Ful-Thane Urethane single stage paint. (If you go bc/cc, I would spray the paint until it's covered...3 or 4 coats, then spray 3 coats of clear. 2 is plenty, but that 3rd coat really makes it shine even brighter and leaves tons of room to wetsand and rub for that perfect flat look. It also leaves plenty of clear there in the future if you happen to get a small scratch, it should wetsand and rub right out)
 

RYC CUKR

Founding Member
May 19, 2002
1,437
1
38
Orlando
Nov 2, 2008
#11
  • Nov 2, 2008
  • #11
What size tip should I use for spraying primer? and for base and clearcoat?
 
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