Just A Few Questions

Mike Barton

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Apr 25, 2016
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okay you guys probably get the same question but I have a pretty much stock 95 5.0 5speed it has bbk long tubes e cam and cold air intake and a 410 I want to go with the biggest top end I can with the stock lower until I have the money to build the stroker short block the car does have a zex 125 wet shot on it but will also be going with a supercharger and the wet shot will be coming off I was looking at doing the afr 185s with the e cam and 1.7 rockers I have a cnc ported gt40 tubular intake so I was going to get 42# injectos with a calibrated maf and a 70mm t-body would that be too much for a stock short block ? I know I'll need new Pistons
 

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You could go as large as 225 even.
There's no way I'd spend money on an HCI and consider an E cam. There is much better to be had than letter cams.

If your cam is correctly chosen then there's no need for 1.7 rockers. Standard ratio roller rockers.

Pic of the intake please. I've not seen a tubular intake CNC ported that I can recall.

42s will work fine.

a "calibrated" MAF is unnecessary. With 42 lb injectors you will need a digital tune. The car will not run well with a "calibrated" MAF. Since the tune is necessary anyway, you should approach the shop that is going to do the tune and get their recommendation.

If you're putting new pistons in it anyway then all of this is moot. Just get a junk yard block and rebuild it.

If you put new heads onto the old short block then the block needs to be in good health.
 
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okay you guys probably get the same question but I have a pretty much stock 95 5.0 5speed it has bbk long tubes e cam and cold air intake and a 410 I want to go with the biggest top end I can with the stock lower until I have the money to build the stroker short block the car does have a zex 125 wet shot on it but will also be going with a supercharger and the wet shot will be coming off I was looking at doing the afr 185s with the e cam and 1.7 rockers I have a cnc ported gt40 tubular intake so I was going to get 42# injectos with a calibrated maf and a 70mm t-body would that be too much for a stock short block ? I know I'll need new Pistons
If you get your cake and eat it too then your dancing on the edge of grenading your stock bottom end unless you get a conservative tune. However, why build up this HCI motor and super charge it only to have to take it all apart to do a stroker soon after completing it? Or is the stroker way down the road? I vote that you don't get a SC, with that money you should buy a built short block that's the CID you want, get the HCI done and add boost down the road. It's less expensive to do it correct the first time.
 
I think opposite of @FoxMustangLvr but for probably the same reasons that Fox has for going his way:

If you just want to drive it and have fun while you build your stroker then just buy the supercharger and install it. Run the piss out of it while you build the motor. Make sure that the blower you get is larger enough for the new motor and don't get greedy while it's on the current motor.

All of this of course, is predicated on the current combo being in very good health.

The problem with my scenario is that everyone gets greedy and uses/blows up the motor prematurely.
 
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a good V3, injectors, MAF and tune will get you to near 350-375 rwhp. Add a top end and you will have more than enough power to split your stock block into two 4 cylinder motors.

Many guys here including me make over 400rwhp on stock blocks with an HCI and a Vortech- know that it is a roll of the dice how long the stock block will last.

You will also need to upgrade your cooling, transmission, rear end, etc. to handle the extra power.
 
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I agree with the blower route first option.

When/if you go the h/c/i option you should check out the trick flow 11r heads. They have a great product. For an intake I recommend a Holley SystemaxII and completely scrap the letter cam option. Go with a custom cam by Ed at flowtechinductions.com,or bullet cams,comp cams,Lunati,etcetc. In the mean time if you have all those parts you described(inj,intake,e cam,etc) just add a blower kit with a dyno tune.
 
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I think opposite of @FoxMustangLvr but for probably the same reasons that Fox has for going his way:

If you just want to drive it and have fun while you build your stroker then just buy the supercharger and install it. Run the **** out of it while you build the motor. Make sure that the blower you get is larger enough for the new motor and don't get greedy while it's on the current motor.

All of this of course, is predicated on the current combo being in very good health.

The problem with my scenario is that everyone gets greedy and uses/blows up the motor prematurely.

Exactly .

\thread
 
Same height as regular TW heads. They don't have the raised ports like the TW high ports.

Isn't the land surface for the valve covers, higher on TW than on E7s or AFRs? I wonder if those r11 heads are the same? Something about how the valves are angled on the TW.

It's probably not a big deal unless there's say... a Weiand blower sitting on-top.
 
I think opposite of @FoxMustangLvr but for probably the same reasons that Fox has for going his way:

If you just want to drive it and have fun while you build your stroker then just buy the supercharger and install it. Run the **** out of it while you build the motor. Make sure that the blower you get is larger enough for the new motor and don't get greedy while it's on the current motor.

All of this of course, is predicated on the current combo being in very good health.

The problem with my scenario is that everyone gets greedy and uses/blows up the motor prematurely.
I think all threads are laughable when a guy "must build a motor before he builds a motor". It's just too rare that they ever build that Dart block stroker on the side after already building up the stocker with their entire savings plus withdrawing from their 401k to get it done. As far as buying big heads to swap over in the future why not just stick with AFR 185's or TW170's? We all saw that Jeffs car ( @TOOLOW91 ) made a ton of power with his TW170 ported heads. They suited his car when it was stock displacement before porting and is now assisting very well while putting down nearly 600rwhp through his killer 363 built motor. I think the 11r and AFR 225 heads are great for NA big cube engines while the 170/185 heads are good for 302 base strokers with boost.
 
I think all threads are laughable when a guy "must build a motor before he builds a motor". It's just too rare that they ever build that Dart block stroker on the side after already building up the stocker with their entire savings plus withdrawing from their 401k to get it done. As far as buying big heads to swap over in the future why not just stick with AFR 185's or TW170's? We all saw that Jeffs car ( @TOOLOW91 ) made a ton of power with his TW170 ported heads. They suited his car when it was stock displacement before porting and is now assisting very well while putting down nearly 600rwhp through his killer 363 built motor. I think the 11r and AFR 225 heads are great for NA big cube engines while the 170/185 heads are good for 302 base strokers with boost.


I didn't take that route. I slapped the blower on and upgraded the fuel system to accommodate. I started off with 6 psi then went to 8. 8 lbs is where it stayed until the 'built' motor was ready for install.

I do know what you mean though. I see a lot of folks dump money into current motor because whatever the thought process....
 
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I think all threads are laughable when a guy "must build a motor before he builds a motor". It's just too rare that they ever build that Dart block stroker on the side after already building up the stocker with their entire savings plus withdrawing from their 401k to get it done. As far as buying big heads to swap over in the future why not just stick with AFR 185's or TW170's? We all saw that Jeffs car ( @TOOLOW91 ) made a ton of power with his TW170 ported heads. They suited his car when it was stock displacement before porting and is now assisting very well while putting down nearly 600rwhp through his killer 363 built motor. I think the 11r and AFR 225 heads are great for NA big cube engines while the 170/185 heads are good for 302 base strokers with boost.


This is accurate and honestly they did better then I thought because he really cleaned them up more then going nuts porting. If I could do it again I'd like a 205 11r on it . Maybe in the future with a Ysi we'll see. I think a head swap alone is worth 20-40 hp on my car . The heads came down to a money thing for me at that point . Not to derail this anymore I agree with you 100 percent .