Just bought a 95GT and found some suprises

do a search on the fox t-body swap and you will find everything you need there.

The motor would be a straight swap then.

I would price the 5spd harrness or search for info on the harn. under trans swap. Enough people have done it now and posted the steps you should be able to find the info easy there as well.

what cam is in the other motor...the 94-95's get kinda picky with cams.

sucks to hear but sounds like your stepping up anyway so congrats

welcome to the red-headed step child club.

SilverLX351 said:

Hey guys, I just picked up my first SN95, a green 95GT. It has a clean title and 101k miles. Mods are 4.10's, bassani cat x pipe, flowmasters, headers, and a pro50.

I traded my 88LX convertible that had a salvage title and I repaired it. It looked great, and had basicaly the same mods, 3.73's, transgo shift kit, 1.7 cobra rockers, cheap 5 lug conversion, and an aftermarket catted exhaust someone had made.

Two days after trading the motor seized up on me. I was pissed but came to find out the firing order was not the HO one, the motor wasnt the original, and had been put back together by someone that had no idea what they were doing. The timing chain was the worst Ive ever seen.

I pulled the motor and transmission out of the car today, and learned it was previously an AODE car. It still had the AODE wiring harness, just cluttered up on top of the T5. The only connector that was connected to anything was to the speed sensor, for the speedometer. My question is Do I need a T5 wiring harness? Would this be the reason the car would not code read?

I have a 92HO motor and some TFS heads and a TFS intake. I want to install this combo, and do the Fox Throttle body conversion. I have the fox throttle body and spacer(70mm BBK) and the fox throttle cable with bracket. Is it that simple?

Any other tips or ideas what I may run into? Let me know please, I can't wait to drive the car afterwards

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Here's the info from my Fox Throttle BOdy conversion. I used the 93 Cobra intake scenario but have covered the standard GT or aftermarket scenario as well.

I was able to get my 93 Cobra PCV hoses (different from the SN95 or Fox GT PCV hoses) at the Ford Parts department...special order for $29. The '93 Cobra intake will fit under the stock hood, even with the hood blanket. However the TB PCV tube rubbed a hole in mine so I took the hood blanket out. I thought that the elbow and adapter elbow were ugly and had bad clearance problems with aftermarket VCs. I bought 90% of my items from people parting out their cars or doing a Carb conversion, the other 10% I bought on ebay. You'll need the following items:
Fox Throttle Body
Fox Throttle Boday IAC (you can use the SN IAC but it looks Fugly and you may have clearance problems)
Fox Throttle cable
Fox Cruise control cable
Fox throttle cable bracket
Fox Fuel injector wiring harness side of the TPS sensor
Fox EGR valve (and a 5\8" cap to block off the EGR port on your header)
Fox EGR spacer if not using a '93 Cobra intake or EGR delete plate to mount throttle cable bracket
Fox Vacuum tree (available at 50resto.com like most of these parts)
5\16” or 3\8” (use a small hose clamp with 3\8”) Tubing to run from the VC filler neck to the TB PCV tube connection if not using SN95 port on the intake tubing
Vacuum caps if you need to block any connections off if you've deleted EGR etc.
a 3\8" pipe plug to block off the Fox ACT sensor port behind the #5 runner in the lower intake if you are running a Fox lower intake or aftermarket intake (or simply use the Fox ACT sensor as a plug for the hole)
You'll have to modify your SN CAI or modify a Fox CAI, or make your own CAI. I have pictures that I can email you.
Here is the TPS wiring splice directions:
TPS wiring...
SN95........TO...........FOX

RED/GRAY..............BLACK
GRAY/WHITE..........GREEN
BROWN/WHITE........ORANGE

Vacuum tubing to extend your vacuum hoses
My accelerator was stiffer and more responsive after doing the swap.
__________________
here are the bolt sizes for the '93 Cobra intake, I had to find the two tallest at Lowe's since nobody seemed to carry them in a package:

upper intake bolts:
stud 5\16-18 x 1.62 (doesn't really have to be a stud, only need one)
bolt 5\16-18 x 6.07 (need two)
bolt 5\16-18 x 6.85 (need two...hard to find I bought 7" and it works fine)
bolt 5\16-18 x 1.62 (need one, two if you don't buy the stud in the first line)

throttle body studs
5\16-18 x 1.75 (need 4, I'd just use the ones from your old SN95 GT manifold which are 2.12" long instead of 1.75, these studs are for the 93 Cobra intake, the Fox GT studs are longer to go through the EGR spacer)

EGR studs
5\16-18 (no length listed in Ford tech CD)
3\8-16 (no length listed in Ford tech CD)
***SN 95 EGR studs are two 5\16-18 x 1.31 so that length will work for the cobra length

wow.. nice write-up

If I was to drop in an entire fox motor would I need to worry about most of the swap stuff or would it be done already?

MustangGT95 said:

If I was to drop in an entire fox motor would I need to worry about most of the swap stuff or would it be done already?

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You'll need to swap the SN-95 timing cover, water pump, all ACC's, and intake (unless you have an elbow) onto the Fox engine. Also make sure you remove the Mechanical fuel pump drive from the fox engine if it's still on there. It'll be bolted to the cam with one bolt. You'll ruin your whole engine if you don't remove it.


If you notice the pic of my enginebay in my signature, I'm running fox body brackets / accessories on my 94 stang... problem is... there isn't room to run the stock e-fan with the Fox brackets, so I had to spend $$$$ and get a skinny flex-a-lite e-fan setup.

Why does that fuel pump drive cause so many problems? Do all the fox motors have them?

My buddies 87 had the exciter ring and it was of course an elec. fuel pump with no issues...IIRC it really dosnt have any ill effects to the rotating assem. if its there or not.

Good point about the water pump and timing cover they will need to be swapped over.

I have also seen people use the fox brackets (on here I think too) they fit but it was TIGHT.

MustangGT95 said:

Why does that fuel pump drive cause so many problems? Do all the fox motors have them?

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Many (though not all) of the fox engines came with the drive, even through the FI years..

Reason it causes problems is, the 94/95 timing covers are skinnier, because they didn't have to provide clearance/room for the mechanical drive. The drive WILL fit under the 94/95 timing cover only in ONE position. However, IF you put it over, first time you start it, the cam will spin around, then when the drive hits the timing cover, SOMETHING is gonna blow. Some people have been lucky, and their timing cover busts, but other people have ruined valves/heads/cam/pistons/rods etc....

Here's a reference pic of the one I did recently. This engine was out of an 89 FI car.

blksn955.o said:

I have also seen people use the fox brackets (on here I think too) they fit but it was TIGHT.

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Here's a pic of mine with Fox brackets... You can see how tight it is.





Sorry for the dirty car / bay.

Ahh so its more of a clearance issue with the cover then...I was thinking you were saying the ball. would be off and cause bearing damage or something.

Having a better rad. also takes up more room...that sucker is tight

blksn955.o said:

Ahh so its more of a clearance issue with the cover then...I was thinking you were saying the ball. would be off and cause bearing damage or something.

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Ahh, no. It's just clearance.

Good to know and thanks for sharing

DS is right - it's simple clearance. Foxes have more room under the hood up front so the fuel pump eccentric was left in place on aero foxes. Once they HAD to get rid of it (for the 94-95 nose) they did.

That's a real shoehorn in there DS - I'd have balked at making that work - good job!

When I saw the size diff. from fox pullies I thought it would have been a no dice thing as well, until I saw one...it was a stock rad. IIRC so it had alittle more room.

SilverLX351 said:

My question is Do I need a T5 wiring harness? Would this be the reason the car would not code read?

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Yes, you need the T5 neutral sensing circuit to function to get codes read.

Want to sell that AODE harness?