Just failed the e-test

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

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Aug 8, 2007

#21

• Aug 8, 2007

• #21

94-302-vert said:

I beg to differ....

Click to expand...

If your idle didnt degrade when the EGR was open, your EGR wasnt working properly. There's no way an open EGR at idle would be near smooth enough to pass an inspection.

Anyone wanna test this: With the car idling, apply 6" or so of vac to the EGR (you can connect a rubber hose and suck on it even). The car's idle will go right down the crapper.

For Mr Duncan, if you notice your idle go to crap when you suck on the EGR nipple then we'd want to check your vac line, EVR and position sensor. The Valve (a slave) might be fine but it's not getting the correct input.

 

gcomfx.com

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Oct 22, 2002

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Aug 8, 2007

#22

• Aug 8, 2007

• #22

Never thought nipple sucking could be so boring.

FWIW - I removed my EGR for the exact reason the car wouldn't idle when it stuck open.

 

94-302-vert

Active Member

Aug 16, 2004

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Aug 8, 2007

#23

• Aug 8, 2007

• #23

If you read my message you would see where I stated that there was a blockoff plate between the EGR and the upper... So the Computer thought it was wide open when it was really doing nothing.

 

Therian

The Highlander

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Aug 8, 2007

#24

• Aug 8, 2007

• #24

So I have three options.

#1. I already paid Midas $189.xx for the e-test + diagnostic. If I pay them another $260.xx I can get new O2 sensors, PCV valve, Oil change, Timing check, and decarbonization and a conditional pass which is good for two years.

#2 I can go to a local shop (what I should have done in the first place), pay them $180.xx and get a conditional pass for two years.

#3 Take the car off the road, source an H pipe, change the 02 sensors, PCV, oil myself. Take out spout, run some GTP and then pray it will pass the test. This will probably end up costing more than the other two options, and I won't have the car on the road for at least two weeks.

What would you do, if you were me?

 

Pokageek

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Jun 10, 2005

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Aug 8, 2007

#25

• Aug 8, 2007

• #25

#1 $100 and a cookie.
#2 ... same exact looking car dettachable vin (no I would never do anything il-legal!!!)
#3 .....move to a state with no emissions.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

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Aug 8, 2007

#26

• Aug 8, 2007

• #26

Duncan, If number 1 gives you parts you need for your money (vs #2. The O2s alone cover the extra cost), I'd do that.

Then over the next two years, find a nice clean H-pipe for the next time around.

Chris, if you knew you had a b-off plate, why did you disagree with my [correct on cars as they come from the factory] statement? I guess you were suggesting that Duncan puts a block off plate on his EGR and then apply manifold vac to the valve (to mimic what you had)? I guess I don't understand the point of your post.

 

Therian

The Highlander

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Aug 8, 2007

#27

• Aug 8, 2007

• #27

Yeah. I think I will be going with #2. Despite the fact that I don't want to hand them the cash (I'm not totally satisfied with their quality).

Regardless though, it seems to make the most sense to at least get some new O2s out of it.

I'll let you know how it goes tomorrow

 

Therian

The Highlander

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Aug 9, 2007

#28

• Aug 9, 2007

• #28

So they want $140 each for the 02s.

I'm back to square one now. They said I could buy them on my own, bring them to them, and then they could put other work towards the $260 I'll have to pay to get a conditional...but then I'm out whatever it costs me to source the 02s on my own + $260.

Option #1 is looking a lot better now.

I'm also considering option #4, sell the car, and build my Audi.

 

94-302-vert

Active Member

Aug 16, 2004

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Aug 9, 2007

#29

• Aug 9, 2007

• #29

How much are the o@s if you bought new ones? That is the real cost delta you need to look at?

How much is the re-test if you just run G2P and pull some timing? I would try this first as it is failry cheap to do...

 

Therian

The Highlander

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Aug 9, 2007

#30

• Aug 9, 2007

• #30

I'm so ****ing pissed right now.

Went out, bought an $80 O2 sensor, went to pay them their money, and they wanted $450 + TAXES AND RETEST. So basically $520 + for new O2 sensors and two failing e-tests.

I told them to go **** themselves hard.

So now I'm not sure what I'm going to do. I don't even want to drive the car anymore.

 

1TallMF

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Apr 17, 2006

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Aug 9, 2007

#31

• Aug 9, 2007

• #31

WTF???
Whatever happened to option #2? Pay for the conditional pass? Changing both O2's takes no more than 15 minutes under the car. Thats crazy

 

Therian

The Highlander

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Apr 21, 2002

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Aug 9, 2007

#32

• Aug 9, 2007

• #32

1TallMF said:

WTF???
Whatever happened to option #2? Pay for the conditional pass? Changing both O2's takes no more than 15 minutes under the car. Thats crazy

Click to expand...

Midas is awful. Never let them touch your car. I couldn't believe the price they were asking for stuff. $100 to install both O2 sensors?? What hourly rate does that work out to? wow.

I'm going with option #2 next Monday.

 

Therian

The Highlander

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Apr 21, 2002

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Aug 9, 2007

#33

• Aug 9, 2007

• #33

Oh, and do you think I should bite the bullet and buy another O2 sensor and install it and the one I bought today? Would this fix my rich condition?

If it won't, I'll probably just take back the one I bought today.

 

R

RAD

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Jun 16, 2006

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#34

• Aug 9, 2007

• #34

final5-0 said:

Another old trick is to have about 1/8 of a tank of gas and dump 80% of a
bottle of rubbing alcohol in the tank. Get the motor up to operating temp
and just around the corner from the testing place ... drizzle the last 20%
of the bottle on the air filter.

Grady

Click to expand...

why don't you try ^ option #5?