Just installed new intake, help me fix problems please

M

MYLX5.0

New Member

Aug 19, 2003

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Dover, DE

Jul 31, 2004

#1

• Jul 31, 2004

• #1

I just finished installing my new Trick Flow Street Heat intake, MAC 70mm TB and MAC 70 mm Spacer and now I have a few problems.
-First off, when I first turn the car on after it's been sitting for 8+ hours, it acts like it doesn't want to idle, it's twice as worse when it sat for about 17 hours. After it starts idleing well I'm on my way.Any suggestions
-Also about every 3 or so times I turn the car on, the check engine light comes on and the car is really sluggish, but after about a mile the light shuts of and it gets quicker, this has happened twice.
-Third, after I have driven the car for like 15 min. and come to a start, about 10 seconds after stopping it starts to idle funny and feels like it's missing bad.
-Fourth off, when i get out of the car and sniff the grill, it kinda stinksover near the radiator cap. It is especially hot near the radio antenna and when I pop the hood it can get too hot to put my hand down there.

I tested the TPS voltage and it was at like .67 so I will try to make the hole longer to get that higher. I haven't checked the timing yet and the two bolts on the top of the intake aren't very tight and I'm trying to find a way to get a socket in there.

I'm sorry this is sooo long but i'm trying to be specific, please help me because so far this has been the install from hell.

 

whiteponygt98

Founding Member

Jun 29, 2002

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Midwest City, OK

Jul 31, 2004

#2

• Jul 31, 2004

• #2

Is it blowing any water out the tail pipes? Any white smoke. Possible coolant getting in the motor. I had this happen to me once. It did the same thing you're describing except the check engine light. Also are you sure you don't have a vaccum leak. This is what it sounds like is the problem to me. Get some wd-40 and spray it around all vaccum areas of the bottom of the lower intake and see if it revs up. If it does there's your problem.
Brent

 

04sleeper

Founding Member

Jun 22, 2002

2,674

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89

Dallas, TX

Jul 31, 2004

#3

• Jul 31, 2004

• #3

Sounds like a vaccum leak.

 

T

TheUser

Active Member

Jul 25, 2003

1,859

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Springfield, MO

Jul 31, 2004

#4

• Jul 31, 2004

• #4

get a timing light on it and check the timing - I wouldn't rule out timing just yet. It also could be the vac leak others mentioned especially if your bolts aren't tight. The lower intake bolts only need to be torqued to like 17 lbs if I remember right and you need to go in the sequence from the manual. After the car warms up, the bolts often times loosen up, so you're supposed to retorque the bolts after it's been ran. And yes, you'll have to pull the upper to retorque.

Not sure what to tell you about the check engine light coming on....kinda crazy it goes off.

 

M

MYLX5.0

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Aug 19, 2003

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Dover, DE

Aug 1, 2004

#5

• Aug 1, 2004

• #5

I torqued all the bolts down on the lower to the correct specs, in sequence. I'll try to get the upper torqued when I can get a socket or vise-grips into the top two bolts.

As a side note, when I started it up this morning after sitting for about 7 hours, it idled pretty fine and when I left work 2 hours later (big money) it ran fine also with no check engine light.

The engine seems to be be getting kinda hot, but the gauge never goes above 160 degrees, also when I first started to leave work, it smelt like maple syrup (best analogy) in the driver side part of the grill.

Any more suggestions?

 

M

Mhypertext

New Member

Aug 1, 2004

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Joplin MO

Aug 1, 2004

#6

• Aug 1, 2004

• #6

Stupid question but what Mass Air meter are you using

 

T

TheUser

Active Member

Jul 25, 2003

1,859

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Springfield, MO

Aug 1, 2004

#7

• Aug 1, 2004

• #7

I can't understand someone having problems with the top bolts on the Upper intake...they're right there on top. You can't properly torque w/ vice grips...use a torque wrench...the last thing you want is to over-torque and break a bolt or threads...i've done it, not fun.

When I bought my car, i pulled the upper and the lower intake bolts were loose...the guy didn't pull the upper and retorque them after the car was ran. I know you said you torqued them in seq, and i'm sure you did, but if you haven't already, you might consider pulling the upper back off and retorque them. If you've done this, sorry, just trying to help.

By the way, the stock guages aren't always accurate and many suggest they be replaced w/ Autometer guages. Sounds dumb, but check your coolant level and see if it's low.

 

M

MYLX5.0

New Member

Aug 19, 2003

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Dover, DE

Aug 1, 2004

#8

• Aug 1, 2004

• #8

I am running the stock mass air sensor.

The bolts on the top of Trick Flow intakes are recessed and I can't get a socket in there. The socket is too large to fit into the hole the bolt goes into. I have tried to grind a socket to fit but Craftsman builds em tough.

When I opened the radiator cap today, the coolant was about 2 inches under the cap.

Please keep the suggestions coming

 

M

MYLX5.0

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Aug 19, 2003

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Dover, DE

Aug 2, 2004

#9

• Aug 2, 2004

• #9

Any more insights???

Well, in the past two or three days, the check engine light hasn't came on, so maybe that little problem is over, but i'm still left with the big ones.

Is it possible that coolant is leaking into my engine?

 

S

silverbullet93

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Jun 4, 2004

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Dublin Califonia

Aug 3, 2004

#10

• Aug 3, 2004

• #10

When I opened the radiator cap today, the coolant was about 2 inches under the cap.From MYLX5.0
Was that right after you drove the car? cus if so, then it is fine. maybe a little too much. but if the engine was cold and the coolant was two inches under the cap, you have WAY too much coolant in there. If you look at the coolant tank it has two levels on it, cold near the bottom, hot near the top. when the engine is hot, your coolant level will be at the the top, but when it is cold, it will be down around the bottom. You really should not be more than an inch above the cold line when your engine is cold. check that again. If so, you need to drain some of that coolant out. And that maple syrup smell is coolant im pretty sure.

 

M

MYLX5.0

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Aug 19, 2003

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Dover, DE

Aug 3, 2004

#11

• Aug 3, 2004

• #11

I'm not talking about the overflow resevior, i'm talking about the radiator itself. I think there is a small hole or crack in my overflow tank because it has never held and coolant.

Is it possible that coolant is leaking into my engine, and if so how.

Also, after about 8 or so minutes of driving, the car seems to get more responsive, but it still smells like syrup when I get out.

Please keep the suggestions coming

 

Stang8URMPRT

Active Member

Dec 28, 2003

1,100

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Daytona Beach, FL

Aug 3, 2004

#12

• Aug 3, 2004

• #12

Anyone see where he said he's getting .67 volts at his TPS? Missing something here, Techs? lol. Your TPS voltage should be at or about .99 volts. Your TPS can be causing your idling problems, and could be throwing your check engine light, also causing a sluggish performance. Get that volt meter out and set that thing to .99.... .67 is way out of whack.

Nick

 

Stang8URMPRT

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Dec 28, 2003

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Daytona Beach, FL

Aug 3, 2004

#13

• Aug 3, 2004

• #13

Also, if you were leaking coolant, you would see it on the ground, out of the tail pipes (as white smoke usually) or you'd have water in the oil. Check your dip stick for any water or just drain the oil. When you pull the lower intake, you are taking out coolant from the block... So when you fill your radiator, you have to wait for the thermostat to open to get the air out of the block. That could be the reason for the the radiator being a little low.

Nick

 

shttygtstang

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Jun 2, 2004

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Aug 3, 2004

#14

• Aug 3, 2004

• #14

also do a full tune up unplug your ecu for 30 mins the plug it in im shure your ecu dosent know why its see more air it has to relearn new parts .lastly if you think theres water in it take the two lines from the egr pick up a copper line conector and hook em together also like stang 8 says fix your tps man

 

M

MYLX5.0

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Aug 19, 2003

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Dover, DE

Aug 3, 2004

#15

• Aug 3, 2004

• #15

I guess that makes me feel a little better. Yea I was waiting til I had a day of of work to fiddle with the TPS sensor, so i'll work on that tomorrow.

But I don't think that explains how horrible it sounds when I first turn it on. like it's missing or something. I gonna fiddle tomorrow, hopefully a plug wire came loose, but I won't be that lucky.

O yea, when I puled the distributor out, I marked the rotor's position. When I put it back in and turned the car over, it was a real dog so I turned it toward the upper radiator hose like 5 degrees or so and it ran better, why??

 

Stang8URMPRT

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Dec 28, 2003

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Daytona Beach, FL

Aug 3, 2004

#16

• Aug 3, 2004

• #16

No no no.. Don't hook your EGR line up together. Do you know what they are their for? If you still have your smog equiptment hooked up, (aka blow tube to cats, pump, line hooked to the back of the cylinder heads, EGR) don't do this... The coolant is there to COOL down the throttle body. The EGR flows 1000+ degree exhaust gas through the EGR plate to recirculate unused gas. The coolant lines there are to COOL OFF the EGR plate... What's better? 1000+ degree heat cooled by 200-250 degree coolant or no cooling effect at all? Also, don't unplug your puter, it's already learned the extra flow and by unplugging it now would be like starting all over.

Nick

 

shttygtstang

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Jun 2, 2004

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Aug 3, 2004

#17

• Aug 3, 2004

• #17

funny iwas told to un hook the egr lines also im running no smog well im giving avote to pull out a haneys manual and do it all over again step bye step
where does exhaust flow through there ne ways i dont have ne tubes besides the coolant lines runnig through mine.....i dunno...ide still plug um together fortesting purposes only then still would let ya know if theres coolant or not

 

Stang8URMPRT

Active Member

Dec 28, 2003

1,100

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Daytona Beach, FL

Aug 3, 2004

#18

• Aug 3, 2004

• #18

It ran better because you had the timign too far retarded (lol, I love saying that). You advanced the timing, thus made it run a little smoother and idle a little higher. Get a timign light, and unplug the SPOUT connector near the distributor.. It's just a little wiring harness with this little plastic end in it. When you unplug this, it will not allow the computer to advance the timing at all, so you are able to set the base timing correctly. You say it runs horrible when you first start it up? You mean it hunts for idle? Like idles up and then idles down? Like searching for an idle? That's normal when you introduce more air into the motor. Normally this can be solved with a good tune from a couple runs on a chassis dyno to get the fuel pressure right and timing, and maybe need a chip. The idle hunting is normal for a car with major airflow mods like an intake. Also, try taking off yoru IAC (Idle air control) motor and cleaning it. They get gummed up and don't flow enough air to keep a stable idle.

Nick

 

shttygtstang

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Jun 2, 2004

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Aug 3, 2004

#19

• Aug 3, 2004

• #19

ya know he might of flipped the distributor around 180 deg.

 

M

MYLX5.0

New Member

Aug 19, 2003

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Dover, DE

Aug 3, 2004

#20

• Aug 3, 2004

• #20

Lately the idle has stayed at like 1000 rpm when I first turn it on after the carhas been sitting for a couple hours and completely cooled. Then if I rev it up it may go to around 900 rpm and move around 100 rpm in either way.


Also, I thought turning the distributor clockwise advances it and counterclockwise retards it. Or am I mistaken??