Just pulled some codes from my stang and...

Slo 5.Ohh

New Member
Jun 4, 2008
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...need some help fellas. I pulled three codes.


332 - EGR valve opening not detected: Does this mean that my EGR is shot and should just get rid of it and find a replacement. Ive looked into getting rid of the EGR completely before but ive heard that it could raise temps in the combustion chamber...anyone have any thoughts on this? A new EGR is a little over 100 bucks which sucks. I just removed my smog pump so if I could just get rid of the EGR for a few bucks to finish cleaning up my engine bay that would be great.

542 - Fuel pump circuit failure: What does this mean??? My fuel pump still works obviously because I have been driving my car around. (this one im thinking might be coming up because when I changed my fuel filter two days ago I unpluged the wires that run the pump so i could turn the car over and release the pressure. I tried starting the car without plugging it back in once i was done so im thinking the car thinks it went bad. hoping it will fix it self and drop the code.)

564 - Electro-Drive Fan circuit failure: Ive come to find out that my fan isnt kicking on at its low speed temp. It only kicks on when the car gets really hot. Is this due to a bad relay???
 
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egr prob- you could try cleaning the crud out of it first
fp fail- prob just from unplugging it and should go away once codes are cleared
fans- could be the low relay like you said, could also be the low speed windings on the motor itself, or the wiring or the connector at the motor.
 
thanks fellas. ill check em out. Should I just get rid of my EGR?? I dont have emissions testing and im in the process of cleaning up my engine bay. I think it would be cheaper to just rip it out.
 
The EGR and Smog system are unrelated.

If you don't mind chancing having pinging at cruise, go ahead and delete it.

The likely cause of the EGR code is a bad vac line to the EGR valve or EGR solenoid (so there's nothing to actuate the EGR), a bad EGR solenoid, or a bad (or unplugged) EGR position sensor.

For the fan, first see if CCRM pin 14 shows 12 V when you're at 212* or hotter (without the AC on).
 
Ive pulled codes as well and mine also has 564. Where is pin 12 located on CCRM? Will having a 116 code cause problems with fan? Thank you

Yes. Address code 116 first. If the circuit is open, the low speed fan should run at all times.

The pins on the CCRM are numbered. I typed 12 twice by accident earlier. You need to check Pin 14. It should be dark blue IIRC.
 
The EGR and Smog system are unrelated.

If you don't mind chancing having pinging at cruise, go ahead and delete it.

The likely cause of the EGR code is a bad vac line to the EGR valve or EGR solenoid (so there's nothing to actuate the EGR), a bad EGR solenoid, or a bad (or unplugged) EGR position sensor.

For the fan, first see if CCRM pin 14 shows 12 V when you're at 212* or hotter (without the AC on).

Thanks alot for the info. If I do decide to delete the EGR should I just drop my timing back down? I either have it set to 12* or 14* right now I dont remember.

If it is not showing 12 v then what should I do??
 
Thanks alot for the info. If I do decide to delete the EGR should I just drop my timing back down? I either have it set to 12* or 14* right now I dont remember.

If it is not showing 12 v then what should I do??

The issue is that pulling timing across the board in order to make up for the EGR would leave the car running like crap at idle and WOT.

If you don't see 12V at CCRM Pin 14, the ECT needs to be checked for calibration. Then you can apply 12V to CCRM Pin 14 to see if low speed comes on. If it does, there's probably an issue with the driver.

Here's some CCRM info in case it helps any. Look at the EDF section (and the diagrams at the bottom of the page). The link at the bottom takes you to a page for wiring up a manual fan switch for low and/or high speed.

Good luck.