Engine K Member to motor mount nuts

[limp]

Ok, the two large nuts that hold the motor mount to the K member, anyone use a large washer under the nut??

My manual shows a washer, but when I tried one today I did not get enough thread engagement for the lock nut to work very well.... Just a couple of threads out the top of the nut... I can see where a large grade 8 washer would help distibute the load, but I don't see it happening.....

 

[Mstng93SSP]

No, I have never used a washer. I have installed numerous engines and when removing original engines I have never seen a washer from the factory.

 

[96pushrod]

A washer really wouldn’t hurt, but if thread engagement isn’t there then I wouldn’t bother.

With the nylock that sucker isn’t going to come loose, so I wouldn’t worry about a washer.

 

[limp]

A washer really wouldn’t hurt, but if thread engagement isn’t there then I wouldn’t bother.

With the nylock that sucker isn’t going to come loose, so I wouldn’t worry about a washer.

My concern was not coming loose, I just thought that slot in the K Member is pretty good sized, the motor mount stud comes through, and a nice fat washer would spread the clamping force out some.....
AS said, not enough thread engagement......

 

[96pushrod]

My concern was not coming loose, I just thought that slot in the K Member is pretty good sized, the motor mount stud comes through, and a nice fat washer would spread the clamping force out some.....
AS said, not enough thread engagement......

Then use a flat washer or hit an ace hardware and pick up a flanged nut.

 

[limp]

Then use a flat washer or hit an ace hardware and pick up a flanged nut.

The nut I purchased in the LMR kit is a flanged nut....
Use a flat washer?? I thought that is what I started this post about???

 

[96pushrod]

The nut I purchased in the LMR kit is a flanged nut....
Use a flat washer?? I thought that is what I started this post about???

This really isn’t complicated. If it’s a flanged nut don’t worry about a washer.

 

[limp]

This really isn’t complicated. If it’s a flanged nut don’t worry about a washer.

hey, I am trying to out think the overpaid engineers that spent millions on this design......LOL

 

[Mustang5L5]

Edit: oops

 

[limp]

I bought new hardware. I used new bolts and flanged nuts with a washer on each end…

Only pic I could find
View attachment 700721

You are showing the K member bolts to frame, I was asking about the engine mounts to K member....

 

[Mustang5L5]

You are showing the K member bolts to frame, I was asking about the engine mounts to K member....

Sorry. Too many beers out on the lake

 

[limp]

Sorry. Too many beers out on the lake

You are forgiven then.... LOL

 

[Wayne Waldrep]

You said "just a couple threads out the top of the nut"....If the bolt threads reach the top of the nut then it's reached it's max holding. If I understand that comment correctly. Either way, a flanged nut is the only way I've ever seen too.

 

[limp]

You said "just a couple threads out the top of the nut"....If the bolt threads reach the top of the nut then it's reached it's max holding. If I understand that comment correctly. Either way, a flanged nut is the only way I've ever seen too.

Always seems to me that the first couple of threads are not full size so they don't count..... Not always, but these studs sure seem to be that way..... Flanged nuts torqued to 60 ft lbs so were good to go there......
Thanks for the responses...

 

[Wayne Waldrep]

Always seems to me that the first couple of threads are not full size so they don't count..... Not always, but these studs sure seem to be that way..... Flanged nuts torqued to 60 ft lbs so were good to go there......
Thanks for the responses...

So did you mean only the first 2 threads engaged? That's different. For example, on a 1" diameter bolt, once the bolt is in 1" it's reached it's max strength from thread engagement. More is just more. So if the motor mount stud (can't remember diameter) makes it's thru the nut even flush to the other side you are good. It doesn't have to protrude at all.

 

[jrichker]

Ok, the two large nuts that hold the motor mount to the K member, anyone use a large washer under the nut??

My manual shows a washer, but when I tried one today I did not get enough thread engagement for the lock nut to work very well.... Just a couple of threads out the top of the nut... I can see where a large grade 8 washer would help distribute the load, but I don't see it happening.....

All you need is 2 full threads showing past the end of the nut.

The threads on the motor mount stud are an interference fit with the nuts that come with the car. I guess that keeps them from coming loose. I could not get then to tighten down so that nut firmly contacted the K member, even with the big air impact wrench running on 160 PSI. I had to use one thick washer on each side to get the nut to tighten down completely. Even then a pipe cheater bar on the ratchet was needed to tighten or loosen the nuts.

The motor mounts that I purchased were not marked left or right, and although they look similar, they are different. Be very careful to replace one mount at a time and compare the new mount against the original one to be sure that they are the same.

 

[limp]

My experience with any type of locking nut is you need to have a few threads showing for it to work...... This was NOT happening when I used a washer.....