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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

K Member

  • Thread starter Thread starter Jontue Harris
  • Start date Start date May 2, 2012
J

Jontue Harris

Member
Mar 20, 2012
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California
May 2, 2012
#1
  • May 2, 2012
  • #1
How important is changing your K member? I have the MM chassis stiffening system plus I am having the suspension kit put on it as well. Only thing untouched is the K member and the front A-arms. Don't plan on racing it just was looking to upgrade my car performance wise so it will be faster and quicker. How bad do I actually need something like this?
 

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
15 Year Member
Jul 3, 2009
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#2
  • May 2, 2012
  • #2
its a lot of work if your not going to race it
 
J

Jontue Harris

Member
Mar 20, 2012
58
0
17
California
May 2, 2012
#3
  • May 2, 2012
  • #3
srtthis said:
its a lot of work if your not going to race it
Click to expand...
No, no racing at all maybe a lil street fun but thats it.. So then I should be good with the stiffening system and stock kmember is what your saying? What about the clearance on the headers plan on shorty equal lengths?
 

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
15 Year Member
Jul 3, 2009
5,129
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Maryland
May 2, 2012
#4
  • May 2, 2012
  • #4
should be fine with what you have now. and clearance between the headers and what?

equal length are a pain in the ass all around btw.
 

VibrantRedGT

"STANGNET'S PENGUIN SMACKER"
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
14,679
424
154
Boca Raton, Florida
May 2, 2012
#5
  • May 2, 2012
  • #5
If you ever take out your motor out its probably worth changing. I changed mine when the motor was out and repainted the engine bay.
 
J

Jontue Harris

Member
Mar 20, 2012
58
0
17
California
May 2, 2012
#6
  • May 2, 2012
  • #6
srtthis said:
should be fine with what you have now. and clearance between the headers and what?

equal length are a pain in the ass all around btw.
Click to expand...
Just wondering if its a tight squeeze with aftermarket headers? You seem like you know alot listen to this..... what kind of setup should I be going with on my top end to be most efficient. I have the intake listed above gonna match that with edelbrock throttle body 7omm, also was going with the e303 cam because of emissions reasons (california) was at a cross between cylinder heads gt40p, gt40x, twisted wedge, or edelbrock . Thought about AFR's but maybe a little to much for my application. Also was gonna go bbk headers and the rest of the exhaust flowmaster with 40 series? Im very novice at this anything thought would help. Thank you in advance.
 
J

Jontue Harris

Member
Mar 20, 2012
58
0
17
California
May 2, 2012
#7
  • May 2, 2012
  • #7
VibrantRedGT said:
If you ever take out your motor out its probably worth changing. I changed mine when the motor was out and repainted the engine bay.
Click to expand...
Ya I had thought about that as well... If I was to go with a brand new block.
 

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
15 Year Member
Jul 3, 2009
5,129
1,666
204
Maryland
May 2, 2012
#8
  • May 2, 2012
  • #8
fast as cast TFS heads are a good price... and i believe they have a carb number also.
 

MFE92

10 Year Member
Aug 25, 2010
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Phoenix
May 2, 2012
#9
  • May 2, 2012
  • #9
Access to everything in the engine bay is easier from the sides and underneath with an aftermarket K-member, you might save 35+ lbs, some of them give you improved suspension geometry, and you get rid of the bermuda triangle socket-hiding shelf, but it's a solid 8 hours of work to install. Only you can say if it's worth it.
 

RacEoHolic330

I like to dress like a pretty girl
15 Year Member
Mar 4, 2003
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Allentown, PA
May 2, 2012
#10
  • May 2, 2012
  • #10
MFE92 said:
and you get rid of the bermuda triangle socket-hiding shelf
Click to expand...

Lmao. So true.
 

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
15 Year Member
Jul 3, 2009
5,129
1,666
204
Maryland
May 2, 2012
#11
  • May 2, 2012
  • #11
MFE92 said:
Access to everything in the engine bay is easier from the sides and underneath with an aftermarket K-member, you might save 35+ lbs, some of them give you improved suspension geometry, and you get rid of the bermuda triangle socket-hiding shelf, but it's a solid 8 hours of work to install. Only you can say if it's worth it.
Click to expand...
8 if you pull the motor out about 3 if you use an engine cradle. But I would only do it pulling motor personally. I've done them with cradles but you can do other stuff like clean the engine bay with it out. But I agree it does open everything up for sure...
 

foxna6

Member
Feb 3, 2012
143
8
18
aberdeen MD
May 2, 2012
#12
  • May 2, 2012
  • #12
There's tons of foxes run 10's or faster with the stock k member so I don't real see why you would need to replace it on your car if its just cruiser
 

jdb3rd

Member
Apr 28, 2005
166
3
19
edgewater MD
May 3, 2012
#13
  • May 3, 2012
  • #13
foxna6 said:
There's tons of foxes run 10's or faster with the stock k member so I don't real see why you would need to replace it on your car if its just cruiser
Click to expand...

So you can tell everybody you have a tubular k member
 

Sharad

ALWAYS choose the V over the P!!! Wait... what?
Jan 5, 2011
1,562
480
94
Fort Myers, Florida
May 4, 2012
#14
  • May 4, 2012
  • #14
Looks like it's pretty much unanimous, but I'll still throw in my two cents.

Sure a tubular k-member is lighter and gives you more working room, but it's not like it's mandatory for a sporty street car. As others have said, I definitely recommend upgrading to a tubular k-member, but it's something I would do when you're already doing other work in the same area. (engine or suspension swap in the front end)
 

bentley429isBAC

10 Year Member
Jul 23, 2009
922
188
84
CT
May 5, 2012
#15
  • May 5, 2012
  • #15
Its a piece of cake to put in. I did mine with the engine in the car. Took 2 nights after work, probably about 6 hours. Dropped some weight of the front, and a lot more clearance. No reason not to do it.
 
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