K-members that DO NOT move the front wheels forward

[Tasandmnm]

I know the MM and QA1 Kmembers move the front wheels forward 3/4 and 1/2 inch forward respectively, this is not what I want for my application. I want the K-member for the weight savings and mainly because my 93 was in a front end collision and not repaired properly (bent K-member). What K-members are on the market that do not move your wheels forward and keep the stock geometry? Thanks guys, I just don't want to make a mistake and get the wrong kit.

BTW my car is a daily driver, getting ready to do teh 5 lug swap and I am going ot get a K-member put in at the same time since my local garage said it would save me a couple bucks to do it all at once. I plan to do a little bit of SCCA road race stuff (not too seriously though) and a little bit of 1/4 mile time. The most I see myself doing power wise to the car is the standard h/i/c and possibly a KB on down the road. I do plan on using the MM front A-arms since they use the SN-95 type balljoints (so I dont have to use washers or the Steeda X2's for my 5 lug swap) and they are just a flat out nice unit the keeps teh stock geometry.

 

[Shamus O'toole]

Try D&D..

 

[93 LX]

I guess the question is why go through all that work and then dont want the advantage of better steering geometry? The extra caster does give you better handling. The k-members I have seen all give you extra caster.

Allen

 

[Tasandmnm]

I guess the question is why go through all that work and then dont want the advantage of better steering geometry? The extra caster does give you better handling. The k-members I have seen all give you extra caster.

Allen

Maybe you didn't read my whole post, it was kinda long. I have a bent K-member, it isn't too horribly bad right now, but it does cause the engine to sit slightly elevated in the front and makes it closer to the firewall. It also causes my shifter to be positioned slightly farther back that it is supposed to...and since it is effecting the transmission I am sure the driveshaft/rearend are slightly affected as well, this is definitely something I want to resolve. I have tried changing the motor mounts thinking that they may be bent from the front end accident the previous owner was in, but that wasn't the case.

 

[Tasandmnm]

Was looking around and UPR claims their K-member retains all factory wheel and engine locations. Can anyone confirm this? And how do you like your UPR K-member in your daily driver?

 

[86roadrace]

I can confirm. I installed the UPR kit in my 86 open track car. Everything bolted in perfectly.

J

 

[bullitstang1313]

I have an AJE k-member and it works just great. No fitment issues and it doesn't seem to have changed the steering geometry either. I went with the coil over setup, but they do sell them with the upper spring perches.

 

[93 LX]

Maybe you didn't read my whole post, it was kinda long. I have a bent K-member, it isn't too horribly bad right now, but it does cause the engine to sit slightly elevated in the front and makes it closer to the firewall. It also causes my shifter to be positioned slightly farther back that it is supposed to...and since it is effecting the transmission I am sure the driveshaft/rearend are slightly affected as well, this is definitely something I want to resolve. I have tried changing the motor mounts thinking that they may be bent from the front end accident the previous owner was in, but that wasn't the case.

You missing the point. If you have to change the k-member why wouldnt you do it and get a better handling car? That was my point.

Allen

 

[EMW150]

I have the QA-1 on my car. I went with the adjustable tubular control arms and adjusted them all the way back and it still is probably 1/2"- 3/4" forward from the factory wheel placement. The problem is if you have your front end lowered, certain ways you turn the wheel and hit a bump it rubs the inner fender. It's not a real problem for me cause I just removed the inner fenders but I can see where a daily driver wouldn't want to do that. Also if you look close, you can tell the tires aren't centered in the wells. I've seen the UPR K-members installed on cars. Very nice. Perfect fit, nice clearance, nice finish. If I had it to do over I'd get the UPR.

 

[Tasandmnm]

Nice, I think I am convinced to go with UPR K-Member and go with MM A-arms, Coil-over, etc. Thanks!

 

[Modular2v]

upr ftw!!!!!!!!!!! i need one bad on my car!

 

[2000xp8]

Upr sucks. Do more research, seems on street cars that see daily use they crack and come apart.
I don't like upr anything.

Use the AJE.

If your K is bent, i'd expect the worst for the install.