kenne bell supercharger
- Thread starter gwiesem
- Start date
93gtmustang
10 Year Member
- Oct 21, 2006
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I was talking to a guy at the drag strip who had a Kenne Bell on his 2002 and he said it was great. Easy install. He was running the one reccomended for stock motors. I think it's 8 psi boost. He said he dynoed 426 rwhp with it.
poneypower89
Now everyone in the world will know I wanna bang t
poneypower89 said:
Close to that but not exactly that.
"Gimme feedback."... That's pretty much all that was said. No questions, no specifics, just feed back.
So... Ummmm.... Lemme see....
For $4500 you could inflate a LOT of balloons! Yes... it's excellent at blowing up balloons.
Oh... and Kenne Bells blow.
Get it? blow?
Ah well. 
hey 91ghp5.0 me and daggar talked about this a while ago and these are some of the things we talked about and i will just show you the PM's
PM #1
Hey,
My "Do it Yourself" list for a full KB install would consist of this for a stock motor:
Kenne Bell 2.2L Blowzilla (Flowzilla if you plan to one day take it to it's limit)
42lb injectors
75mm or larger MAF
75mm or larger TB
Innovative LM-1 Wideband meter with RMP converter
Anderson PMS or TwEECer R/T
In car fuel pressure gauge
In car Vac/Boost gauge
255 l/hr fuel pump
Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump
Kenne Bell Boost-A-Spark
GT-40 Lower intake
Running the kit over the top of Trick Flow heads will require you to modify the snout bracket. TFS heads sit about 3/8s inch taller than stock heads. You'll also need a 3/8s inch manifold spacer to go between the lower manifold and the blower manifold. KB used to sell the modified brackets but don't anymore.
I DO have dyno sheets but it's not something I put out there for general consumption. On a stock motor with E7 heads and stock cam, you can expect a HP figure in the 280-300 rear wheel range and 370-390 ft lbs of torque just off idle. Cam and heads will go along way to making yoru torque curve as flat as the horizon.
Modifications that you make beyond what I've listed above will only help. Your rear end (with 4:10s) is not geared well for a KB. 3:27 or 3:55 is about as steep as I'd dare to go on our cars, given how light we are in the ass end. 4:10s are much better suited to a turbo or centrifugal blower that requires a lot of RPM to spool. KBs require 0.1 seconds to spool.
Let me know if there's anything I've left out or if you have additional questions.
Daggs
PM#2
Ok a couple of questions about the KB itself
http://kennebell.net/superchargers/f...-flowzilla.htm
using the blowzilla with flowzilla inlet w/ bypass what does bypass mean? It means that it uses a larger inlet in place of the one used on the Blowzilla kit what does it do? It allows more air to be induced into the super charger. Positive displacement super chargers are effected to a greater degree than centrifugals are, from inlet restrictions.also why does it say GT-40 only? is that saying you have to use the GT-40 lower intake? Yes. also when you say that it sits higher does that really matter i plan on getting a new hood or is that not the problem is it the whole thing wont go together to well? Neither... it means that there are modifications that need to be made to the snout bracket in order for the blower casing to clear the valve covers.also could you send me a link to a 3/8" spacer like the one your talking about so i can see what you mean? Do a search for GT40 manifold spacers. Summit and Jegs both have them. It's just like a gasket only it's 3.8s inch thick.
I planned on changing the gears out back anywys soon b/c i was using those until i learned how to drive b/c my dad said they were more "forgiving"? as for gears would yopu say like 3:08'2 or 2:73's or anything in between?My plan is to go with either 327s or 355s with the new combo. Not because I need the gearing but because my 3:27s are 20 years old and probably require a change. I'm also looking forward to being able to use 5th gear at less than 75 or 80 MPH. hehe
Thats the info i can give you
hoped this helped
-Cody-
PM #1
Hey,
My "Do it Yourself" list for a full KB install would consist of this for a stock motor:
Kenne Bell 2.2L Blowzilla (Flowzilla if you plan to one day take it to it's limit)
42lb injectors
75mm or larger MAF
75mm or larger TB
Innovative LM-1 Wideband meter with RMP converter
Anderson PMS or TwEECer R/T
In car fuel pressure gauge
In car Vac/Boost gauge
255 l/hr fuel pump
Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump
Kenne Bell Boost-A-Spark
GT-40 Lower intake
Running the kit over the top of Trick Flow heads will require you to modify the snout bracket. TFS heads sit about 3/8s inch taller than stock heads. You'll also need a 3/8s inch manifold spacer to go between the lower manifold and the blower manifold. KB used to sell the modified brackets but don't anymore.
I DO have dyno sheets but it's not something I put out there for general consumption. On a stock motor with E7 heads and stock cam, you can expect a HP figure in the 280-300 rear wheel range and 370-390 ft lbs of torque just off idle. Cam and heads will go along way to making yoru torque curve as flat as the horizon.
Modifications that you make beyond what I've listed above will only help. Your rear end (with 4:10s) is not geared well for a KB. 3:27 or 3:55 is about as steep as I'd dare to go on our cars, given how light we are in the ass end. 4:10s are much better suited to a turbo or centrifugal blower that requires a lot of RPM to spool. KBs require 0.1 seconds to spool.
Let me know if there's anything I've left out or if you have additional questions.
Daggs
PM#2
Ok a couple of questions about the KB itself
http://kennebell.net/superchargers/f...-flowzilla.htm
using the blowzilla with flowzilla inlet w/ bypass what does bypass mean? It means that it uses a larger inlet in place of the one used on the Blowzilla kit what does it do? It allows more air to be induced into the super charger. Positive displacement super chargers are effected to a greater degree than centrifugals are, from inlet restrictions.also why does it say GT-40 only? is that saying you have to use the GT-40 lower intake? Yes. also when you say that it sits higher does that really matter i plan on getting a new hood or is that not the problem is it the whole thing wont go together to well? Neither... it means that there are modifications that need to be made to the snout bracket in order for the blower casing to clear the valve covers.also could you send me a link to a 3/8" spacer like the one your talking about so i can see what you mean? Do a search for GT40 manifold spacers. Summit and Jegs both have them. It's just like a gasket only it's 3.8s inch thick.
I planned on changing the gears out back anywys soon b/c i was using those until i learned how to drive b/c my dad said they were more "forgiving"? as for gears would yopu say like 3:08'2 or 2:73's or anything in between?My plan is to go with either 327s or 355s with the new combo. Not because I need the gearing but because my 3:27s are 20 years old and probably require a change. I'm also looking forward to being able to use 5th gear at less than 75 or 80 MPH. hehe
Thats the info i can give you
hoped this helped
-Cody-
Yeah... I still have 2:73s in the rear. An 80 MPH cruise is about the cutoff point for 5th gear.
It doesn't "chug" or anything if I go lower but you can hear the the blower whistling away and forcing air in into the motor that you probably aught not to at that RPM in 5th. RPM at that point is below 1500 (there-abouts) and of course the KB is at full boost aytime the bypass valve is closed.
I will say however, that when I cruised out to Rick's place in PA from IL that I did just about the entire trip in 5th @ between 75 and 80 MPH with the cruise on. It was cool to watch the boost gauge go from nothing to full boost in the blink of an eye every time I hit an incline. I never needed to downshift going over the mountains at all.
Soon, I'll be putting a set of 3:55s in. Maybe I'll get it done this winter. The new combo makes power all the way to 7000. I finally have a valid reason to swap my gears.
It doesn't "chug" or anything if I go lower but you can hear the the blower whistling away and forcing air in into the motor that you probably aught not to at that RPM in 5th. RPM at that point is below 1500 (there-abouts) and of course the KB is at full boost aytime the bypass valve is closed.
I will say however, that when I cruised out to Rick's place in PA from IL that I did just about the entire trip in 5th @ between 75 and 80 MPH with the cruise on. It was cool to watch the boost gauge go from nothing to full boost in the blink of an eye every time I hit an incline. I never needed to downshift going over the mountains at all.
Soon, I'll be putting a set of 3:55s in. Maybe I'll get it done this winter. The new combo makes power all the way to 7000. I finally have a valid reason to swap my gears.
Daggar said:Yeah... I still have 2:73s in the rear. An 80 MPH cruise is about the cutoff point for 5th gear.
It doesn't "chug" or anything if I go lower but you can hear the the blower whistling away and forcing air in into the motor that you probably aught not to at that RPM in 5th. RPM at that point is below 1500 (there-abouts) and of course the KB is at full boost aytime the bypass valve is closed.
I will say however, that when I cruised out to Rick's place in PA from IL that I did just about the entire trip in 5th @ between 75 and 80 MPH with the cruise on. It was cool to watch the boost gauge go from nothing to full boost in the blink of an eye every time I hit an incline. I never needed to downshift going over the mountains at all.
Soon, I'll be putting a set of 3:55s in. Maybe I'll get it done this winter. The new combo makes power all the way to 7000. I finally have a valid reason to swap my gears.
daggar, you're putting crazy thoughts in my head again. you cant do this to me!
what transmission are you running?
Also...
One small change to my KB essentials list above:
It should read Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump --or-- 255L intank.
With my 255L, I've had the boost-a-pump set to 0. It's not to say that I won't need to increase it a bit as I get things more ironed out with my tune and power but so far, I've not needed both.
The caveat there, is that I've only been through slightly more than half of my throttle and RPM range so far. Both may be needed as I said; when I'm able to get fully into the power band... and yes... this damned TwEECer R/T has me pulling my hair out so far. How I miss speed density.
One small change to my KB essentials list above:
It should read Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump --or-- 255L intank.
With my 255L, I've had the boost-a-pump set to 0. It's not to say that I won't need to increase it a bit as I get things more ironed out with my tune and power but so far, I've not needed both.
The caveat there, is that I've only been through slightly more than half of my throttle and RPM range so far. Both may be needed as I said; when I'm able to get fully into the power band... and yes... this damned TwEECer R/T has me pulling my hair out so far. How I miss speed density.
91ghp5.0 said:i worry about my T5, but then again, i'll probably only just goof off on the street. i dont go to the track...ever. no racing, but i certainly like a little kick in the SOTP on my way to class/work
A KB on top of your current combo will def give you a kick in the pants. As I mentioned above, it's the tuning that's giving me a rash right now. Had I a facility nearby that could just chip tune it and be done with it, I'd be all over that. The whole thing would be done by now if I still lived in IL and this TwEECer would be sitting atop a fence post fending off ammunition in a caliber of 45-70.
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