Keyless entry wiring ?

#22
I am glad to hear you got it whipped. All the thanks should go to Shane - he knows way more than I do about this stuff (at least I am smart enough to tell people when I am not sure, and to go speak to da man). :hail2:

Even when Shane's too busy to be posting much in here, he has time to help us out. My hat's off to him!
 
#23
Thanks a bunch man. I'll hook up the trunk release when I get the chance.



donjohn said:
the reason I was having problems with the door wires: you have to be careful which wires you think are the right ones. The freakin pink ones have the secondary colors really light. And pink means bright pink... not peach :(

they should just print numbers all the way up the wires instead of colors
Click to expand...

^^^^^ I know how you feel man .... I had the exact same problem. Glad you got it finished, though.
 
#24
The living dead thread!!!!

Anyway... whats the deal with the trunk release, purple / yellow - tapped into it, and nada. Worked on and off with a Viper. It died on me, so I got a Crime Guard from Crutchfield, and it doesnt work at all.

Any ideas?
 
#25
what alarm you all running???
i got the Alphaguards ..88 a couple years ago, and lost the wiring diagram and instructions... i need the master wiring for that alarm...i know the rest basically cuz i did a remote start in pops 97 250, but I NEED THAT STUFF FOR THAT ALPHAGUARDS...i checked the website and everything, i would really like some help...!!!! PLZ!!!!
 
#27
Im pretty sure Im into the right wire. It was installed on that wire previously. Purple and yellow, and thicker than almost all the other wires.

Just not sure why the trunk doesnt pop. It would randomly with the viper. If I hit the glove box trunk button, the alarm module would work a few times then stop working. Trunk button in the glove box always works though.

Alarm manual says if the switch doesnt draw more than 250mA then you dont need a seperate relay, otherwise, a relay setup with 12V. Easier than tapping that purple wire if I have to do a relay would be tap the two wires going the switch already.

And its a Crime Guard 745i4.
 
#28
I'm no expert on the matter, I just got it set up with hissin's help.

I would check the connection from the viper box, or whichever your running now, to that purple switch. Did you solder it on or just use a butt(s/p?)connector?

testing all the connctions with a basic 12v test light would be a good idea. Test the purple/yellow wire to make sure it's the right one, test the viper/alarm output to see if it's giving you a 12V pulse, and check at some point on the purple/yellow wire if you're getting a pulse when you activate the alarm module

... that's all I can think of checking right now.

hmm, you might want to make sure your ground and power wires are connected to your module correctly. an incorrect ground or a power cable connected to an accessory and not a constant 12V source could cause wierd things to happen.

where is all your wiring tapped into? a picture would help
 
#29
Well, if your glove box button works EVERY TIME .... that narrows the problem down to the module or wiring. Check for bad ground .... or maybe even a short in the piggy to the purple/yellow wire.
 
#30
Perhaps a dumb question. Why did you not just get the factory keyless module and plug it in? I thought all 1994 Mustangs were max wired, and a few of the '95's. Seems a bit simpler than trying to go aftermarket ;).

Dave
 
#31
Rootus said:
Perhaps a dumb question. Why did you not just get the factory keyless module and plug it in? I thought all 1994 Mustangs were max wired, and a few of the '95's. Seems a bit simpler than trying to go aftermarket ;).

Dave
Click to expand...

well you see... if i would have thought of that option at the time, it may have worked :D

but since i didn't and i found my module for <$15 I figured why not. Also, I'm not sure how to get new remotes or how much they would be. $15 for the module and 2 remotes seemed like a good deal to me. Also, I think the knowledge gained was well worth the hassle :rolleyes:
 
#32
donjohn said:
I'm no expert on the matter, I just got it set up with hissin's help.

I would check the connection from the viper box, or whichever your running now, to that purple switch. Did you solder it on or just use a butt(s/p?)connector?

testing all the connctions with a basic 12v test light would be a good idea. Test the purple/yellow wire to make sure it's the right one, test the viper/alarm output to see if it's giving you a 12V pulse, and check at some point on the purple/yellow wire if you're getting a pulse when you activate the alarm module

... that's all I can think of checking right now.

hmm, you might want to make sure your ground and power wires are connected to your module correctly. an incorrect ground or a power cable connected to an accessory and not a constant 12V source could cause wierd things to happen.

where is all your wiring tapped into? a picture would help
Click to expand...

Power is into the ignition wires under the steering wheel. ANY wire needing a 12V source is directly soldered to the constant 12 wire.

Ground is into the metal tube behind the dash.

Module is behind the cluster.

Door locks are in the pink / yellow / blue wires under the drivers kick, dome / door pins are in the black/blue wire, parking lights are into the brown wire, and after that... well... purple and yellow, but no go. Guess I can pull the wiring out and see what kind of signal its throwing when I hit the button.
 
#33
Nagash01WS6 said:
Power is into the ignition wires under the steering wheel. ANY wire needing a 12V source is directly soldered to the constant 12 wire.

Ground is into the metal tube behind the dash.

Module is behind the cluster.

Door locks are in the pink / yellow / blue wires under the drivers kick, dome / door pins are in the black/blue wire, parking lights are into the brown wire, and after that... well... purple and yellow, but no go. Guess I can pull the wiring out and see what kind of signal its throwing when I hit the button.
Click to expand...

according to that, I'd think it was either a bad connection... it could just be a short in the module, since everything else seems to be in order

dunno, maybe hissin50 will jump in or you could direct him to this thread via pm
 
#34
Nagash, I am confused. Did you choose to not run a relay on the trunk popper? I would always run an external relay - it unburdens the onboard electronics, esp in the event of a short in the trunk circuit.

Put your meter on the trigger wire for the alarm's trunk popper (the .25 amp maximum draw wire). See if it displays voltage every time you hit the trunk button on your key fob. If it doesnt, that is the issue right there.
If the 250 mA wire always gets juice when you hit the trunk button on the fob, check your connections.

I apologize if this is redundant or off-base - I might not understand your issue at hand.

Good luck.
 
#35
No, I dont currently have a relay in there for the trunk popper.

I'll check it out tomorrow to see whats going on, probably throw a relay in it since I have the old one for the starter kill laying around still. Just have to run another 12V power supply. Is there a continuous 12V in the kick panel anywhere? I see a few solid yellows that are thick, so that would be my guess, easiest way would be to hit it with a meter though.
 
#37
I was kinda wondering about that (every one I have done was neg pulse too, hence the absolute need for a relay to change the output). THat's nice that you posted that info - it will help someone down the line. :nice:

Glad to hear it works like a champ now!
 
#39
donjohn said:
negative pulse... so why would it work sometimes and not others? i don't really get it. I thought if the voltage difference was 12V then that was good enough...?
Click to expand...

it would work occasionally with the old viper system. Not at all with new system. I checked the old viper manual I found, and it was negative pulse as well... makes absolutely no sense to me either.
 
#40
Was the viper trunk output programmable? Some of the higher end stuff has onboard relay capability and the output can be switched. :shrug:
 
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