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Late model rear end in a 69?

  • Thread starter Thread starter richardsdd
  • Start date Start date Sep 2, 2004
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richardsdd

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Green Bay, WI
Sep 2, 2004
#1
  • Sep 2, 2004
  • #1
I'm looking to put a new rear end on my car and was wondering what the best late model rear would be?

Thanks!
 

allcarfan

The Answer Man
Founding Member
Apr 8, 2001
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North Atlanta
Sep 2, 2004
#2
  • Sep 2, 2004
  • #2
Read up on the fast forward fastback on ebay motors. They put a late model rearend in an early model. Or, they welded on some perches to eliminate the leafspring suspension. They ran upper and lower control arms.
 
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tjm73

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Aug 3, 2000
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Sep 2, 2004
#3
  • Sep 2, 2004
  • #3
The 8.8" is the only good late model rear.

But I gotta ask why the hell would you do that? The 9" is way stronger and very plentiful. If you rebuild it yourself it's a lot cheaper too.
 
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richardsdd

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#4
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The reason I am thinking of a late model is because I can get one for free. Where as I would have to pay about $300 for a 9". Not to mention, finding a 9" around here is very difficult.
 
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tjm73

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#5
  • Sep 2, 2004
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richardsdd said:
The reason I am thinking of a late model is because I can get one for free. Where as I would have to pay about $300 for a 9". Not to mention, finding a 9" around here is very difficult.
Click to expand...

Ooooo....well, free changes everything. Look at the 8.8 from an F150. Big brakes, 31 spline axles and most likely a traction-lok. You will have to have it narrowed and redrilled for the car bolt pattern. F150 is leaf spring like the older Mustangs. Nothing will be direct bolt in though.
 
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96 DOHC Cobra

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If you're going to consider the F150 rearend, you should REALLY consider the Explorer rearend. It already has all the plusses of the F150 rear. In addition, it already has the correct wheel lug pattern and the perfect width for you. Most have 3.73s and traction lok. The 95-up versions also have disc brakes. You will have to get the spring perches relocated. One drawback is that the pinion is off-center and some say that under certain conditions the pinion flange rubs the underbody. You might be able to avoid that by swapping to conventional yoke or to a smaller diameter flange from a Mustang.
 
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tjm73

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#7
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96 DOHC Cobra said:
If you're going to consider the F150 rearend, you should REALLY consider the Explorer rearend. It already has all the plusses of the F150 rear. In addition, it already has the correct wheel lug pattern and the perfect width for you. Most have 3.73s and traction lok. The 95-up versions also have disc brakes. You will have to get the spring perches relocated. One drawback is that the pinion is off-center and some say that under certain conditions the pinion flange rubs the underbody. You might be able to avoid that by swapping to conventional yoke or to a smaller diameter flange from a Mustang.
Click to expand...

I NEVER thought of that!! What is the width on a Explorer axle anyway? That makes so much sense it's silly.

EDIT: I owe you a thank you. I am in the planing stage to build a street rod and I am now going to consider an 8.8" from an Explorer for my rear axle. Width is good, brakes are good and parts are easy to come by.
 
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96 DOHC Cobra

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The Explorer rear is 59 1/2" overall (axle flange to axle flange).
 

allcarfan

The Answer Man
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#9
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doesnt the explorer rearend have an offset housing? You need to narrow one side and get a shorter axle.

I might be wrong.
 
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tjm73

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allcarfan said:
doesnt the explorer rearend have an offset housing? You need to narrow one side and get a shorter axle.

I might be wrong.
Click to expand...

Hmmm....great question....any takers?
 

sand1man

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Sep 2, 2004
#11
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Yes the Exploror center section is offset, I think people just have one side shortened and use the short axle out of a Ranger

I used a 8.8 out of an 89 Stang, it wasn't 5 lug nor did it have disc but it was free, I was able to change axles, weld on spring perches, use my excisting parking brake settup, including axles, drums, perches I think I had 300 in it, 3.73 gears and a trac-loc, plus you can do all the work your self if you can grind and weld
 

sand1man

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Sep 2, 2004
#12
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and it was only 1/4" wider on each side than the the original one
 
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96 DOHC Cobra

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The Explorer rear is offset. Shortening one side is the inexpensive way to get it close to the correct width for a 65-66 Mustang and center the pinion. That would be too narrow for a 67-70 by about three inches. It would still work, but you'd have to use wheel spacers or deep dish wheels on the rear.
For a 67-70 application, I think you're better off leaving it stock length and change the pinion flange (cheapest option), OR convert the housing to use nine-inch housing ends. Then you can shorten one side, lengthen the other, buy a set of custom axles and be all set. This would still be cheaper and lighter than a nine-inch rear.
 
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tjm73

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96 DOHC Cobra said:
The Explorer rear is offset. Shortening one side is the inexpensive way to get it close to the correct width for a 65-66 Mustang and center the pinion. That would be too narrow for a 67-70 by about three inches. It would still work, but you'd have to use wheel spacers or deep dish wheels on the rear.
For a 67-70 application, I think you're better off leaving it stock length and change the pinion flange (cheapest option), OR convert the housing to use nine-inch housing ends. Then you can shorten one side, lengthen the other, buy a set of custom axles and be all set. This would still be cheaper and lighter than a nine-inch rear.
Click to expand...

That may or may not be the case, but the 9" will always be stronger...IMO The 9" is more versitle and their are millions and millions of them out there. Not saying the 8.8" isn't a good rear end. There are thousands of them in 10, 9, even 8 second cars. But if I were spending my money, I'd spend just a little bit extra for the never gonna break it 9". I could rebuild an entire 9" having it cut and axles resplined for a stout street car for about $700. That's from having nothing but cash in hand, to a completed rear end ready to install.
 

SandSprite

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Feb 8, 2003
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L.A., CA
Sep 3, 2004
#15
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  • #15
Your rear is 59.25" or so. The fox (87-93) mustang 8.8's are about the same (+/- 0.25") width, but are 4 lug. You can grab the rear discs off of a Mark VII and flip the caliper bracket, and get your 5 lug axles from a ranger or aerostar (can't remember pass. or driver side). You will have to do a little more research, but that is what I have found. I was going to go this route, but the 9" turned out to be cheaper.
 
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tjm73

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Aug 3, 2000
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Sep 3, 2004
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  • Sep 3, 2004
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SandSprite said:
...... and get your 5 lug axles from a ranger or aerostar (can't remember pass. or driver side). You will have to do a little more research, but that is what I have found. I was going to go this route, but the 9" turned out to be cheaper.
Click to expand...

From a Ranger it's 2 passenger side axles. From an Aerostar it's 2 driver's side axles. I'll confirm that....
 
T

tjm73

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Aug 3, 2000
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48
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Sep 3, 2004
#17
  • Sep 3, 2004
  • #17
tjm73 said:
From a Ranger it's 2 passenger side axles. From an Aerostar it's 2 driver's side axles. I'll confirm that....
Click to expand...

My bad!! Ii switched them..it's 2 drivers side ranger or 2 passenger side Aerostar. Or any combo of the them.
 
9

96 DOHC Cobra

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#18
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I'm sure pricing, availabilty, desireability will vary from one area to another. My statements are based on what I see in my area. Around here you can buy an Explorer 8.8 (31 spline, traction lok, w/ 3.73s) complete, any day for under $100. On the other hand, a 67-70 Mustang rearend (28 spline axles, housing, and drums ONLY) goes for about $250. 31 spline axles will add another $300-350. The centersection will add another $500 or more. The Explorer rear is a cheaper alternative or at least a better starting point unless you expect to be pushing upwards of 600 hp. The 8.8s can handle alot. They can be built just about as tough as a nine-inch. Nine-inch rears are strong but not indestructible.
 
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