Laying down on top end.....????? 4:10's fix?

drakesdad · Sep 16, 2006

These are just the traps and Et's from last night but they mirror the last time I went.......she's falling flat on trap speed...
13.58 @100.89
14.01@100.90
13.74@100.67
13.65@99.53
14.08@100.04
Not consistent but I was trying different settings on the SCT chip and launching.....the worst run I spun.....was my last run of the night and I was only trying to raise my trap and it didn't work.......I am thinking the 4:10's may get me up quicker and raise my trap..............what do you think.

Killercanary · Sep 16, 2006

It depends. At what RPM are you crossing the line at and at what RPM did you make max HP and TQ at when you had it dyno'd? If you are crossing below your peak HP RPM then yes, a move to a steeper gear should equate to better ET's and MPH. What was your 1/8th mile MPH?

Grn92LX · Sep 16, 2006

What do you shift at and what rpm do you cross at?

drakesdad · Sep 17, 2006

Paul and Mike....here is all the info I can give........I did not see what I was at when crossing he line but I'm 90 percent I'm below max power
The dyno sheet shows max power at 271.7 @ 5750 TQ at 277.9 @4250 on the Mustang Dyno
and here is more info on the runs from Friday nite..
1/8th 9.1492 @79.35 1000ft 11.82 @91.11 =14.08 @100.04

1/8th 8.71@79.49 1000ft 11.39@91.11 =13.65@99.53

1/8th 8.84@80.17 1000ft 11.49@91.77=13.74@100.67

1/8th 9.13@80.51 1000ft 11.77@92.39=14.01@100.90

1/8th 8.71@80.80 1000ft 11.34@92.64=13.58@100.89

Here are my best two runs with the car from 2 months back
1/8th 8.57@79.51 1000ft 11.24@90.73=13.51@99.56

1/8th8.58@79.37 1000ft 11.26@90.77=13.52@100.27

1st to second the car was shifting at around 5800 to 6000 and close to this 2nd to 3rd.......and then the car feels like it is not pulling as hard as the previous gears.......when I shifted it manually on the 13.58 run I still took it 6000 rpm before it changed.....I don't have a shift kit .....so it takes a second to hit the next gear......
I didn't post the 60's cause they were all over......but I plan on MT ET's over the winter.......even with a good 60 my trap stays the same.........If there is more info you need just hit me up...
Thanks guys
Will

drakesdad · Sep 17, 2006

I guess this one race with Eric from Corral was a eye opener for me......Here is what he had listed on Corral as his mods..
stock 302 short block
ported cobra intake
crane 2031 cam
1.7 cobra rockers
afr 165 heads
65mm tb
75mm pro-m
jet hot shortie headers. I know he has a rear seat delete.....AC and smog delete and I "thought" he told me that he dyno'd at 240 on a Mustang dyno as well but don't know if he did something afterwards....He has a 6 speed manual trans and did tell me he used 4 th.......he is the break down on our run.....
Me.............Eric
.0509 . .2739
2.0061 60' . 1.9030
5.6759 330ft . 5.5120
8.7129 1/8 ET ' 8.4681
80.80 1/8 mph . 82.84
11.3499 1000ft ET . 11.0242
92.64 1000ft mph . 95.92
13.5840 1/4 ET . 13.1701
100.89 1/4 mph . 105.17

I know my car is heavier and my 60's have been in the 1.8's.......and that would have help a little but I really think the top end is hurting....

Grn92LX · Sep 17, 2006

You need to shift higher. Try 6,200.

I had the TFS street hci kit on my car and my best pass was 12.8 @ 107 shifting early. 3300 lb race weight.

last5liter · Sep 18, 2006

Will,
I still think ditching the chrome pipe (Heatsink) on your air intake would make a difference. That and possibly a screen in front of your MAF to straighten out the air to get a better reading.

All in all it was a good night for racing.

Will. Did you have any luck with the eliminations that night?

Killercanary · Sep 18, 2006

drakesdad said:
Paul and Mike....here is all the info I can give........I did not see what I was at when crossing he line but I'm 90 percent I'm below max power
The dyno sheet shows max power at 271.7 @ 5750 TQ at 277.9 @4250 on the Mustang Dyno
and here is more info on the runs from Friday nite..
1/8th 9.1492 @79.35 1000ft 11.82 @91.11 =14.08 @100.04

1/8th 8.71@79.49 1000ft 11.39@91.11 =13.65@99.53

1/8th 8.84@80.17 1000ft 11.49@91.77=13.74@100.67

1/8th 9.13@80.51 1000ft 11.77@92.39=14.01@100.90

1/8th 8.71@80.80 1000ft 11.34@92.64=13.58@100.89

Here are my best two runs with the car from 2 months back
1/8th 8.57@79.51 1000ft 11.24@90.73=13.51@99.56

1/8th8.58@79.37 1000ft 11.26@90.77=13.52@100.27

1st to second the car was shifting at around 5800 to 6000 and close to this 2nd to 3rd.......and then the car feels like it is not pulling as hard as the previous gears.......when I shifted it manually on the 13.58 run I still took it 6000 rpm before it changed.....I don't have a shift kit .....so it takes a second to hit the next gear......
I didn't post the 60's cause they were all over......but I plan on MT ET's over the winter.......even with a good 60 my trap stays the same.........If there is more info you need just hit me up...
Thanks guys
Will

With peak occuring at 5750, a trap speed of 100mph, and 3.73's gears... you were definitely crossing UNDER your peak on the top end. With the RPM's that your car makes peak HP and TQ at, I'd throw 4.10's in AT A MINIMUM. Hell, I may even suggest 4.30's. The reason for this is to have the ideal setup for the strip, you want a rear gear ratio that will have you cross the finish line just above where you make peak power at RPM wise. To do this you must know your trap speed. I'm sure that your car will pick up a few MPH with the addition of 4.10's, but I'm not sure it'll be enough to still have you cross at or above 5750 assuming your converter doesn't slip up top.

Secondly, you need to gain control of that AODE. You need to find a way to make it shift when you want, right when you want. As Mike said, a higher than 6000 shift point seems to be needed here. Once you find a way to control your shift points go back to the track and make a pass with it shifting at 5800, then 6000, then 6200 and watch the 1/8th mile MPH and 1/4 MPH. Try and find the shift point that gives you the best 1/8th mile MPH and 1/4 MPH. They may not be the same for every gear. My car liked a higher shift point on the 1-2 shift than it did on the 3-4. You can only learn this with time and practice. Try to only change one thing at a time though. Honestly, if it was my car I think I'd try and get the shift point down before I worried about the rear gear change. Is your AODE completely stock, converter and all?

drakesdad · Sep 18, 2006

Killercanary said:
With peak occuring at 5750, a trap speed of 100mph, and 3.73's gears... you were definitely crossing UNDER your peak on the top end. With the RPM's that your car makes peak HP and TQ at, I'd throw 4.10's in AT A MINIMUM. Hell, I may even suggest 4.30's. The reason for this is to have the ideal setup for the strip, you want a rear gear ratio that will have you cross the finish line just above where you make peak power at RPM wise. To do this you must know your trap speed. I'm sure that your car will pick up a few MPH with the addition of 4.10's, but I'm not sure it'll be enough to still have you cross at or above 5750 assuming your converter doesn't slip up top.

Secondly, you need to gain control of that AODE. You need to find a way to make it shift when you want, right when you want. As Mike said, a higher than 6000 shift point seems to be needed here. Once you find a way to control your shift points go back to the track and make a pass with it shifting at 5800, then 6000, then 6200 and watch the 1/8th mile MPH and 1/4 MPH. Try and find the shift point that gives you the best 1/8th mile MPH and 1/4 MPH. They may not be the same for every gear. My car liked a higher shift point on the 1-2 shift than it did on the 3-4. You can only learn this with time and practice. Try to only change one thing at a time though. Honestly, if it was my car I think I'd try and get the shift point down before I worried about the rear gear change. Is your AODE completely stock, converter and all?

Thanks Paul....I have the Edge 9.5 stall set at 3400 rpm......Don worked with the shift points with the SCT chip.......He changed it by mail so I may have to take it back and have him drive it and set it up................other than that nothing else done to stock AODE.......

drakesdad · Sep 18, 2006

last5liter said:
Will,
I still think ditching the chrome pipe (Heatsink) on your air intake would make a difference. That and possibly a screen in front of your MAF to straighten out the air to get a better reading.

All in all it was a good night for racing.

Will. Did you have any luck with the eliminations that night?

What's up Eric...glad to see you.......I have already started looking for options on the pipe....as you suggested....I pulled the stock out of the attic and will try to fab something up when I have the time.......I was looking on Ebay and the V6 CAI make a bend.....I may buy one just to try and fab it up and it looks like with the bend it will keep it off the engine......I will def. do something with the pipe.....(After our race mine was hot to the touch and Eric's set up was luke warm at the most)...
Yes...It was a perfect night out.......weather wise at least......

and NO>>>>>> No luck with Eliminations........this is only my third trip to the track.....I'm not good enough....I only ran and told the guy I was with it was my last run........I spun on purpose to see if I could trap higher.....didn't work ...funny thing.....I raced that yellow and red ford fairlane (I think that's what it was) and he was the same car that beat me two months ago when I went......Man you can hear that guy coming up behind you....
If you can post up a pic of your engine bay and hopefully will see you post more...
Will

gcomfx.com · Sep 18, 2006

I put the C&L pipe on my car, and it heat soaks really bad. I may be going to plastic down the road.

Good luck Will. I would really look at a shift kit if I were you. Really helped my car out. Just have to watch the traction when it bangs second.

drakesdad · Sep 18, 2006

gcomfx.com said:
I put the C&L pipe on my car, and it heat soaks really bad. I may be going to plastic down the road.

Good luck Will. I would really look at a shift kit if I were you. Really helped my car out. Just have to watch the traction when it bangs second.

there was def. a difference between Eric's and mine.......makes sense to have a cooler pipe.......I sold my stock MAF to a stanger' in need so i may try and find a screen to try that out............I am at the decision making part regarding the trans........shift kit or swap.......have to think on it but if the Aode stays ...........shift kit it is.......

Grn92LX · Sep 18, 2006

The metal intake pipe isn't your problem. Its the lack of gear and stock valve body in the aode. Put a lentech VB in it and 4.10 or 4.30 gears and shift around 6,200. Your car is heavy too so thats a downfall as well.

last5liter · Sep 18, 2006

Grn92LX said:
The metal intake pipe isn't your problem. Its the lack of gear and stock valve body in the aode. Put a lentech VB in it and 4.10 or 4.30 gears and shift around 6,200. Your car is heavy too so thats a downfall as well.

Heres some actual data:

Chrome pipe with open air filter: 13.6@102 this with a Check engine light tripped because the Air temp sensor was so off it the O2's were sensing a to lean condition. And the pipe that mounts the air intake temp sensor and chrome bullet MAF were almost to hot to touch.

K&N style open air element set-up (no chrome pipe, reuses stock rubber tube)with out a screen in front of the MAF: 13.5@103

K&N set-up with a screen in front of the MAF: 13.17@105

last5liter · Sep 18, 2006

Basically the difference with my car was 5 tenths and 3mph by switching out the chrome pipe for a rubber one and placing a screen to create Laminar flow or "even" flow in front of the MAF.

These are real track tested results. And my car has E/T radials so consistency in runs is really good.

I do agree that set of 4:10's or 4:30's and a shift kit will also help. Just saying that after seeing his car in person the air intake is also a place were more MPH and ET can be found.

last5liter · Sep 18, 2006

Will,

are you going to post the video of the run we did?

drakesdad · Sep 18, 2006

last5liter said:
Will,

are you going to post the video of the run we did?

Eric, I would love to.....I sent you a pm when you were on the other night........John, the guy that followed me up......did not get our run or my run against the white Iroc.......both ended is loss' .......I came home and went to dub and he only got 4 of my runs.....and the run with you was the only one I really wanted to see....... NOTE to self........hire a better camera person.......

gcomfx.com · Sep 18, 2006

last5liter said:
Heres some actual data:

Chrome pipe with open air filter: 13.6@102 this with a Check engine light tripped because the Air temp sensor was so off it the O2's were sensing a to lean condition. And the pipe that mounts the air intake temp sensor and chrome bullet MAF were almost to hot to touch.

K&N style open air element set-up (no chrome pipe, reuses stock rubber tube)with out a screen in front of the MAF: 13.5@103

K&N set-up with a screen in front of the MAF: 13.17@105

Mine didn't slow me down THAT much.... but I was able to get the C&L to cool down (by touch) by routing the whole filter and M/A into the fender. Were any of your setups actually cold air? Or just in the engine compartment. Before I moved to the fender, my C&L would burn your finger. Definately going to look for a better setup when I change the intake again. Also going to double check that I don't have any metal to metal contact. My rubber couplers could have moved on me.

last5liter · Sep 18, 2006

Yes all the set-ups are with the filter in the engine bay

Pokageek · Sep 18, 2006

That screen actualy does something?? .4 tenths off the QM?? WOW!! Most guys just take those screens out. Anyone else agree to either leave them in or put another one in if you've replaced your old MAF?

What would you use for material? Something from Home Depot?

Thanks.

Laying down on top end.....????? 4:10's fix?

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