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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech

Leaf spring change Q's

  • Thread starter Thread starter Randy'65
  • Start date Start date Apr 4, 2011
R

Randy'65

Founding Member
Feb 1, 2000
352
0
17
Richmond, VA
Apr 4, 2011
#1
  • Apr 4, 2011
  • #1
I have some mid-eyes to put in my '65, I started by just seeing if I could get the front eye bolts to move. So far I have the nut off of one side, I put a socket extension on the bolt and hit it with a hammer, no movement but that may be because I still have the weight of the car on it. I do know that the bolt turned while loosening the nut, is that a good sign or is it probably just the sleeve turning in the rubber?

One thing I can't figure out is where to put the jackstands while doing this that they won't be in the way. The only part of the frame rail that seems suitable and flat is right beside the spring and seems like it would get in the way. Does anyone have any pics of where the stands should go?
 
P

palerider94

Member
Feb 21, 2006
573
1
19
Apr 5, 2011
#2
  • Apr 5, 2011
  • #2
Common problem. The bolt seizes to innner sleave. Only way to get out is to cut it. I've done a few of these and quickest way to cut it is with a grinder and 7" cutoff wheel. Stands should go right in front of leaf springs on rear torque box.
 
2

2+2GT

10 Year Member
Apr 25, 2009
3,333
10
79
Southeastern Pennsylvania
Apr 5, 2011
#3
  • Apr 5, 2011
  • #3
I use an air hammer 'hammer' tip on the bolt at the end opposite the hex head. 9 times out of 10, that's enough to shake loose the rust and release the bolt. Then there's #10…

Using a cutoff wheel, cut the spring off at the eye. Spin the resulting loop around and cut it opposite the gap, and remove the resulting clamshell halves of the spring. Cut through the center of the bushing and eye, and remove the pieces. It'll smell when you cut through the rubber.
 

horseballz

10 Year Member
Sep 30, 2009
824
19
49
Las Vegas, NV
Apr 5, 2011
#4
  • Apr 5, 2011
  • #4
Another way, saving the spring, is to use a sawzall in between the spring rubber and the frame to cut the bolt.
HTH,
Gene
 
R

Randy'65

Founding Member
Feb 1, 2000
352
0
17
Richmond, VA
Apr 5, 2011
#5
  • Apr 5, 2011
  • #5
I've read some writeups on the procedure and what will likely go wrong, so I'm prepared for the inevitable but still hopeful they will just pop right out. I'm still wondering about where to put the jackstands. Just seems awfully crowded right there beside the leaf spring.
 

kylehamilton79

Member
Feb 2, 2009
66
0
6
Lubbock, TX
Apr 6, 2011
#6
  • Apr 6, 2011
  • #6
When I did mine I had jack stands underneath the rear axle and another set at the torque boxes. I used the biggest cutoff wheel I could find and it didn't take long. I tried everything else first with no luck. A sawzall blade wouldn't fit the way I wanted and I didn't have much luck. My bolts were spinning but stuck to the sleeve. The only other problem I had was trying to tighten the front eye-bolts down with the weight of the car on them, since the car was sitting so low and I couldn't reach very well.
 
P

palerider94

Member
Feb 21, 2006
573
1
19
Apr 6, 2011
#7
  • Apr 6, 2011
  • #7
+1 on kylehamilton. You can use a sawzall but plan on going thru a buch of blades and taking forever.
 
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