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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

Lean Codes And Over Heating

  • Thread starter Thread starter Cammed2v
  • Start date Start date Jul 6, 2017
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Cammed2v

New Member
Jul 6, 2017
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Jul 6, 2017
#1
  • Jul 6, 2017
  • #1
sup guys, so to make the story short I bought a 03 gt. Turns out it needed a motor. So I bought a motor out of a 2004 crown Vic with 32k miles. Well, turns out it's a npi motor and instead of selling it I decided to just make it work. So this is what I have.

03 gt,npi block,pi heads, pi intake, stage 2 cams,75 mm throttle body, throttle body spacer, cold air intake and cat less h pipe. Stock tuning.

Car cranked up fine was misfiring, had two bad coil packs replaced and she was chopping smooth. Car was driving fine, has a slight miss in the higher rpms but won't set a mis fire code. A couple weeks go by and I get a passenger lean bank code along with gas cap evap code.

I have spent lots of time checking vacuum leaks with starting fluid and brake cleaner. I can't find anything. Are these codes from running on stock tuning?

I live in middle ga and can't find anyone who will tune my car for less then 1g. To me it's not worth paying this as I still wanna go forced induction. Any reccomendations?

Also the radiator fan motor has died causing the car to run hot. What are some good aftermarket radiator fans? I will go back stock if its better but I like upgrading when I can, if it's reasonable.

I'm Just trying to get this thing running right!
 
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Sluggie24

Active Member
Apr 8, 2017
135
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Jul 7, 2017
#2
  • Jul 7, 2017
  • #2
I have special tools to test evap systems at work. Trying to figure out where a leak is without them would be a pita. Your best bet will be to look at the evap lines and canister from the tank to the engine. Look for cracks, loose connections or holes especially in any rubber parts. If you can't find anything you can always try replacing the gas cap but they are only the problem part in 5% of evap leaks from my experience.

The lean code on passenger side could just be an exhaust leak between the header and head or at the flange to the h pipe. If the tune was responsible I'd expect to see lean codes for both banks. It's also possible the misfire you mentioned is causing the lean code if the miss is on that bank but I would think that if the miss was bad enough to set a lean code it should also set a misfire code.

Get an OEM fan or aftermarket equivalent. It's my understanding that the original fan is about as good as it gets and spending more $ on an aftermarket "performance" fan would be wasted $.

It's too bad you can't get it tuned for a reasonable price where you are. The good tuner by me who did my car only charged $450 for 4 hours of dyno and setup time.
 
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Cammed2v

New Member
Jul 6, 2017
4
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1
Jul 7, 2017
#3
  • Jul 7, 2017
  • #3
Thanks for the info! I brought home my ethos scanner to get this son of a gun fixed! I'll post back shortly with the codes.

What kind of special equipment are you using to test the evap?
 
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Sluggie24

Active Member
Apr 8, 2017
135
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Jul 7, 2017
#4
  • Jul 7, 2017
  • #4
I have an evap testing rig special tool that Mitsubishi dealers use. It pressurizes the system and has a gauge. Makes it easy to isolate leaks and works better than the smoke testers. Used it when I worked at Mitsubishi and bought my own when I left.
 
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Cammed2v

New Member
Jul 6, 2017
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1
Jul 8, 2017
#5
  • Jul 8, 2017
  • #5
After doing multiple contribution test I can't pin point the missing cylinder they all fall out around the same amount.

For the evap I've always used a smoke machine, I was just curious if that's what you was talking about.
 
S

Sluggie24

Active Member
Apr 8, 2017
135
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28
Jul 8, 2017
#6
  • Jul 8, 2017
  • #6
Did you ohm out all the injectors? They can cause issues when hot sometimes
 
C

Cammed2v

New Member
Jul 6, 2017
4
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1
Jul 8, 2017
#7
  • Jul 8, 2017
  • #7
nope I haven't done that yet. Do you know what they should ohm out too?
 
S

Sluggie24

Active Member
Apr 8, 2017
135
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28
Jul 9, 2017
#8
  • Jul 9, 2017
  • #8
No, the value would be in ford service info but they should all be very close to each other both cold and hot. If one is very different it's a problem.
 
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