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Let's hear some tips for AFR 165 heads install...

  • Thread starter Thread starter 5spd GT
  • Start date Start date Jun 22, 2004

5spd GT

"the 5.0 owns all"
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Aug 7, 2002
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Jun 22, 2004
#1
  • Jun 22, 2004
  • #1
I'm "gathering" up information for my FTI combo install to begin in about two weeks...and just want to hear some of your tips or info that I need to make the install go smoothly and to make sure I do everything write...

For example: What bolts need thread sealer, antiseize etc...what do clean off pistons and block with...proper torque specifications...etc...

Thanks,
David
 

85_SS_302_Coupe

it sucks (I know) to be on the receiving end
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Nov 11, 2003
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Jun 22, 2004
#2
  • Jun 22, 2004
  • #2
I'll bump this one, wouldnt mind knowing this stuff myself since i'll be doing the same soon.
 

5spd GT

"the 5.0 owns all"
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#3
  • Jun 23, 2004
  • #3
ttt....
 
9

9 Deuce GT

Member
Dec 10, 2003
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Geneva, NY
Jun 23, 2004
#4
  • Jun 23, 2004
  • #4
I am by no means an expert on head swaps, but here we go:

Get a good torque wrench, you'll need it.

Make sure all surfaces that recieve a gasket are cleaned well.

Chase all threads in the block after cleaning, just before installation.

Make sure you have all the dowel pins. Two of mine were stuck in the stock heads and were mangeled when I tried to get them out. I got two new ones from Ford for way more than I should have spent.

When disconnecting you feul rail, just get the cheap air conditioning removal tools, they work fine. No need to chase down a Snap-On truck. I got the whole set for $10. Also be careful when removing the rail after it is disconnected. I ended up tearing one of the gas resistant O-rings, and Ford acted like they never heard of such a thing. It took me a week to find a similar material O-ring. I was not just going to stick a regular O-ring in there only to have it break down and burn my precious new heads up.

Make sure the head gaskets are facing the correct way. They have front stamped on them for a reason, (I believe it is water passage related).

Get some threaded rod the same size as your lower intake to head bolts. Cut it into 3" lengths. Thread them into the heads proir to mounting the lower. Slide the lower over the threaded rod and onto the gaskets. It makes it a lot easier to get a good seal this way.

Make sure the car has the appropriate insurance on it and check the brakes, because your going to need them when that mother rips like it's going to.

You will not be dissapointed!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

5spd GT

"the 5.0 owns all"
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#5
  • Jun 23, 2004
  • #5
Thanks...

Anybody else installed AFR 165's or something similiar?...what is the torque specifications...? What bolts need thread sealer...antiseize...cleaning off pistons and gasket areas?...etc...

David
 
T

TheUser

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Jul 25, 2003
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Jun 23, 2004
#6
  • Jun 23, 2004
  • #6
Jrichker actually has a nice little write-up on this, so maybe search for "head" and his name and see if you can find one..I know I had a post about 6 months ago and he posted it then.

Acetone or MEK will work to clean the surfaces, but I believe I used brake cleaner and/or gasoline and a gasket scraper. I think I might have used a wire wheel on the pistons, but I can't remember.

Thread sealer goes on the bolts that go into the water passages and the others just get anti-seize. Torque varies depending on which sealant you put on the bolts...w/ ARP thread sealer, I believe it was 70 lbs, but find out for sure. I think most people like the Fel Pro 1011-2 head gaskets, just to throw that in.
 

5spd GT

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#7
  • Jun 23, 2004
  • #7
TheUser said:
Jrichker actually has a nice little write-up on this, so maybe search for "head" and his name and see if you can find one..I know I had a post about 6 months ago and he posted it then.

Acetone or MEK will work to clean the surfaces, but I believe I used brake cleaner and/or gasoline and a gasket scraper. I think I might have used a wire wheel on the pistons, but I can't remember.

Thread sealer goes on the bolts that go into the water passages and the others just get anti-seize. Torque varies depending on which sealant you put on the bolts...w/ ARP thread sealer, I believe it was 70 lbs, but find out for sure. I think most people like the Fel Pro 1011-2 head gaskets, just to throw that in.
Click to expand...

Water passages are the bottom bolts correct?...and also If I remember correctly you tighten the bolts in three stages up to 70ft lbs...and then do the top bolts to 80ft lbs...right?
 

5spd GT

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Jun 24, 2004
#8
  • Jun 24, 2004
  • #8
5spd GT said:
Water passages are the bottom bolts correct?...and also If I remember correctly you tighten the bolts in three stages up to 70ft lbs...and then do the top bolts to 80ft lbs...right?
Click to expand...

Is this correct?
 
S

Schlodes

Founding Member
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Lidsville.... West side dawg..
Jun 24, 2004
#9
  • Jun 24, 2004
  • #9
Subscribing. I'll be doing an AFR 165s, E Brock Performer, 1.7 rockers, 24 lb inj and Pro-M install this weekend or next...
 
8

85GTlover

New Member
Mar 20, 2004
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#10
  • Jun 24, 2004
  • #10
Try.......www.autozone.com there are tons of great tech tips there.
 

saleenx029

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Jun 10, 2004
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Jun 24, 2004
#11
  • Jun 24, 2004
  • #11
In my un-expert opinion, I suggest ARP headbolts(re-useable), at least if not studs, (but they are a pain IMO) I torqued all headblots to 80 ft lbs across the board, but the majority of people I think say 70lb feet on the outer small bolts, 80 lbft on the long, because the intake seems to lift up the heads a little, but I think the intake deforms first, so I go with 80 lb feet across the board. Thread sealer goes on the short bolts, you will discover when you are cleaning the threads to the headbolts that the outer bolts will go into the cooling passages indicating need for thread sealer, while the long bolts' holes will have a bottom to them. I use felpro 1011-2 gaskets, make sure you get the torque procedure perfect, it is important. Brake Cleaner is good for cleaning the motor (I use small brushes to get at difficult areas when cleaning) a vacuum also hepls get crap out of thge motor. Keep oiled areas as clean as possible, and clean them well before buttoning up the motor. This is how I do it
 
9

92GreenGT

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#12
  • Jun 24, 2004
  • #12
Just giving ya a bump. But all good info mentioned here, hopefully jrichker will post his info for ya.

Glad your finally get some "new" power

Dave
 

Klunky

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#13
  • Jun 24, 2004
  • #13
Not trying to be Captain Obvious here, but I have to ask. Have you guys looked on the www.airflowresearch.com website? It has tons of the answers you're after. Complete installation instructions. Good luck.
 

5spd GT

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#14
  • Jun 24, 2004
  • #14
92GreenGT said:
Just giving ya a bump. But all good info mentioned here, hopefully jrichker will post his info for ya.

Glad your finally get some "new" power

Dave
Click to expand...

Yeah...I guess I ended up going the H/C/I route...and you went supercharger (to many hard choices having a stang..lol)...either way I wanted that "new" power... ...it just kills me with all the parts in my room right now...and it isn't in the car...I got just a couple things more to order and then I'll install it...here within a couple weeks...

You got any times for your car yet?

Thanks to all for the replies and I'm welcome for more
 

Grn92LX

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#15
  • Jun 24, 2004
  • #15
5spd GT said:
Is this correct?
Click to expand...
Yes, you were correct. be sure to use thread sealent on the lower bolts. You can use it on the uppers also, or 30w oil.
 
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