Let's see pics of Fox's with Maximum Motorsports K-member

I keep going back and forth with the MM K-member. It's the only aftermarket k-member I would even consider puting on my 92 street driven car, but I keep hearing all these problems with wheel fitment and fender rubbing problems. And I think that the wheels moved forward and not being centered in the wheel well would drive me nuts.

So if anybody has installed pics of the MM k-member that would be awesome! (Tried to use the search function, but couldn't find any install pics)
 
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Per Bloodreign:

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I strongly consider the MM K-member and 2 different techs at MM told me that if I wasn't putting it on a race only vehicle then the effort was not worth it. It's ashame b/c I would really like to have all the clearance and lighter weight of a K-member but w/o the wheel clearance issues that go along w/ MM piece.
 

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The stock K member is a massive piece of metal, but it is built that way for a purpose. Street driven cars get pounded by
potholes, speed bumps, junk in the road, and banged against curbs. This is a continuous process that lasts 100,000-
400,000 miles or more if rust or collision doesn't cause the car to be scrapped. The massive nature of the stock K member
soaks it all up and never moves out of alignment. A tubular K member isn't going to take that kind of punishment mile after
mile, year after year and hold alignment.

Tubular K members are great for cars that are trailered to the race track and back home. The car never sees a pothole and
running over a curb just doesn’t happen. If you bend the car, you put it on a frame jig and straighten it all back into
alignment. It’s a race car and you expect to have to do things like that to be competitive. It is built into your racing budget,
just like multiple sets of tires and spare parts.
 
The stock K member is a massive piece of metal, but it is built that way for a purpose. Street driven cars get pounded by
potholes, speed bumps, junk in the road, and banged against curbs. This is a continuous process that lasts 100,000-
400,000 miles or more if rust or collision doesn't cause the car to be scrapped. The massive nature of the stock K member
soaks it all up and never moves out of alignment. A tubular K member isn't going to take that kind of punishment mile after
mile, year after year and hold alignment.

Tubular K members are great for cars that are trailered to the race track and back home. The car never sees a pothole and
running over a curb just doesn’t happen. If you bend the car, you put it on a frame jig and straighten it all back into
alignment. It’s a race car and you expect to have to do things like that to be competitive. It is built into your racing budget,
just like multiple sets of tires and spare parts.


my thoughts exactly. i've heard of welds cracking, probably because of all the things listed about, and that's something i would not want to happen while driving down the road.