Lincoln Mark VIII Fan Install Problems

Redfire 05 · May 21, 2007

I just installed a Mark VIII fan on my 86' but the fuse keeps blowing when the fan comes on.

So here is the setup:
Mark VIII electric fan
Spal PWM Controller w/ Spal Thermostat

I wired everything as per spal's instructions. The only notable difference is that the Lincoln Fan has two + wires (brown/orange stripe and blue) so I just chose one (brn/org) for the + and taped the other off. I used a 30amp fuse on the battery side of the spal controller. I've rechecked my wiring and don't see any obvious problems. I saw an article on www.fordmuscle.com where they did the exact same install and used a 30amp fuse and according to them it worked fine. So where did I go wrong? Anybody with any experience with this install or ideas as to why the fuse is blowing? How many amps does the lincoln fan draw and how many can it handle?

Tomorrow I was going to swap the + from the brn/org to the blue although I don't think that will help? If that doesn't work I was also considering adding a relay to the + at the fan side so I could protect the controller (I believe it can only handle 30amps) and add a fuse so I can step up the fuse size. Sorry, I'm not sure if that last part makes sense.

mhultstrand · May 21, 2007

I read somewhere that the fan can pull up to 140amps for a few milliseconds. I bought one for my car, but I think I'm going to just get a new fan blade and fan clutch because I don't want to spend the money to upgrade to the 3G alternator and wiring on my 89 GT.

HISSIN50 · May 22, 2007

I've seen similar issues myself. You'd need a really slow burn fuse to withstand the start up draw (it's closer to 100 amps).

Do the instructions call for a fuse on the fan side (as opposed to the load side of the controller, from the battery to controller. This is where some controllers choose to fuse, rather than between the controller and fan)?

For members with SPAL specific assistance and experience, I believe that 79 Pacecar ran a Spal controller, and Urban96 runs with and really likes it.

Good luck.

slappy9090 · May 22, 2007

fans and motors alike have an inrush current that can well exceed their running current draw, it only last a fraction of a second so if you just get something like maybe a breaker, or a slow release fuse, or just wire the thing directly. You do not need to get an excessivly large alternator, or anything of the sort to handle it. Kind of like a vacume at your house, the lights could dim really quick on start up but you wouldnt go buy a 400 amp panel for your house to handle that split second inrush. I would try a circut breaker!

tmoss · May 22, 2007

You need a "slow blow" 30 amp fuse. Regular automotive fuses are "quick" blow.

This is one reason I liked the dccontroller, it has overcurrent protection built right in - wired it direcctly to the starter relay.

Flavadave4 · May 22, 2007

Any body know if DCC is still have a long back order?

Juiced88Coupe · May 22, 2007

Flavadave4 said:
Any body know if DCC is still have a long back order?

3-5 weeks

tmoss · May 22, 2007

wow, business is good! Brain may be reaching one of those "growing pain" points.

Strype · May 22, 2007

Redfire 05 said:
I just installed a Mark VIII fan on my 86' but the fuse keeps blowing when the fan comes on.

So here is the setup:
Mark VIII electric fan
Spal PWM Controller w/ Spal Thermostat

I wired everything as per spal's instructions. The only notable difference is that the Lincoln Fan has two + wires (brown/orange stripe and blue) so I just chose one (brn/org) for the + and taped the other off. I used a 30amp fuse on the battery side of the spal controller. I've rechecked my wiring and don't see any obvious problems. I saw an article on www.fordmuscle.com where they did the exact same install and used a 30amp fuse and according to them it worked fine. So where did I go wrong? Anybody with any experience with this install or ideas as to why the fuse is blowing? How many amps does the lincoln fan draw and how many can it handle?

Tomorrow I was going to swap the + from the brn/org to the blue although I don't think that will help? If that doesn't work I was also considering adding a relay to the + at the fan side so I could protect the controller (I believe it can only handle 30amps) and add a fuse so I can step up the fuse size. Sorry, I'm not sure if that last part makes sense.

Dude. Take it from me. Just buy the fan blade and clutch or a flex fan. Keep your shroud on with either one. I went through a year of HELL with the Taurus fan. The blue wire is the slow speed wire and the orange is the fast. You will have to upgrade to a 3 Gen alternator if you keep that on there and it will give you nothing but headaches. If you have any questions feel free to pm me.

Trust me though, I tried it all. The fan worked remarkably when it didn't eat a hole through my radiator using the black push through holders, or pop every fuse, or blow every thermostat I put in it, or run down my battery and alternator etc...

tmoss · May 22, 2007

I've had mine on for 3 years without a single hickup.

slappy9090 · May 22, 2007

I think they are great as well!

tbovee · May 22, 2007

Mine works flawlessy with a dccontroller. It did take 3 weeks to get it but, ITS WORTH THE WAIT!

Redfire 05 · May 22, 2007

Wow a lot of replys so let's see:
- first, yes I have a 3G alternator so that's covered

- second, yes the instructions called for a fuse only between the controller and the battery, not between the fan and the control box. But it seems like a good idea to have one between the fan and control box so I'll probably add one and a relay there as I think the spal controller is only rated at 30amps max.

- Third, a slow burn fuse sounds great. In fact, last night I was thinking that that would be a great idea but I didn't know they made one. So where do I get one? What about fuselink? Does it work that way? Are relays made to handle a brief spike in current?

- Fourth, I didn't want to run a power wire straight to the fan, but I think I'm going to for now just to see what kind of amperage it is drawing after the initial start up.

HISSIN50 · May 22, 2007

As I recall, Maxifuses are slow burn. A fusible link should also do well, it seems to me.

That said, If I'm a first grader, Tom (or Joe) are professors, so their opinion should be weighted greater than mine.

When I need specific info, I go to the site of the locally available fuse company (Buss, et al) and find what suits my needs best. Then I call around to 20 parts stores for the right part.

Good luck.

Redfire 05 · May 25, 2007

Okay, so I'm still having problems with this fan. I tried running a ground and power wire straight from the battery to the fan and the power wire really heats up. It's not melting, but it's hot to the touch, and the fan doesn't spin very fast. I'm getting 14+ volts with the car running so I'm thinking the fan should be running full speed but it's not. Am I doing something wrong here or does it sound like the fan motor is fried?

HISSIN50 · May 25, 2007

Redfire 05 said:
Okay, so I'm still having problems with this fan. I tried running a ground and power wire straight from the battery to the fan and the power wire really heats up. It's not melting, but it's hot to the touch, and the fan doesn't spin very fast. I'm getting 14+ volts with the car running so I'm thinking the fan should be running full speed but it's not. Am I doing something wrong here or does it sound like the fan motor is fried?

What gauge wire were you using?

smallstang393 · May 25, 2007

Assuming the motor is good don't worry about a slow blow fuse just put a relay on the fan and all should be good then if ya put a fuse on it put it on the battery to relay side not the relay to fan side use large dia wire to help on wire current and wire heating up if wire is to small it can cause many problem (including fire)like blowing fuses also

Redfire 05 · May 25, 2007

HISSIN50 said:
What gauge wire were you using?

10 gauge wire on both pos and neg

302RollinHard · May 25, 2007

Heat in a wire indicates high resistance. Is it a used fan? Are all your connections clean? That is probably why you are burning fuses. Keep at it. I have nothing bad to say about the SPAL controller.

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