LONG cranks....now problem.

Its almost sounds like maybe you have a leaking injector causing the the engine to flood. It takes it longer to crank over and start because it lost fuel pressure plus the cylinder is flooded with fuel. I don't know just something that popped in my head while reading. I would check fuel pressure and spark for sure. Pull the plugs as well and check them out. You should be able to tell if it is running really rich or not. As far as the electrical burning smell, I would check the wiring to the starter, the starter and the ignition switch.

My old Windstar had this. It was fuel related.

Best way to check the fuel system is to put a fuel pressure gage on the fuel rail. It should hold pressure when the engine is off. If it drops when shut off, either the regulator is failing to hold pressure, or the check valve in the fuel pump has failed. Country boy method is to see how much fuel spurts out the little test port valve when off, when you depress the plunger, compared to when running.

In my case, it was the fuel pump internal check valve. Replaced it and fixed it.

A leaking fuel pressure regulator, leaking injector, or this fuel pump check valve will cause what Ford calls an " extended crank."

Believe it or not,this will help me with my fathers 99' Trans Am,its doing just what you described. Except no buring smell,but hey if I find something out Ill let you know

Fuel pressure OK, the injectors are not firing, OR one or more injectors stuck
open

Do a cylinder balance test: Warm the car's engine up to normal operating
temperature. With the Engine Off, Key OFF, use a jumper wire or paper clip to
put the computer into test mode. Start the engine and let it go through the
normal diagnostic tests, then quickly press the throttle to the floor. The
engine RPM should exceed 2500 RPM's for a brief second. The engine will shut
off power to each injector, one at a time. When it has sequenced through all
8 injectors, it will flash 99 or the number of the failing cylinder such as 22 for
cylinder #2. Quickly pressing the throttle again up to 2500 RPM’s will cause
the test to re-run with smaller qualifying figures. Do it a third time, and if the
same cylinder shows up, the cylinder is weak and isn’t putting out power like
it should. See the Chilton’s Shop manual for the complete test procedure

The red wire on each injector is powered up whenever the ignition switch is
in the Run position. The computer provides a ground to complete the circuit
and fire the injector. The injector must have a ground to squirt fuel on
command. A short to ground in the injector return wiring can cause one or
more injectors to be continually open or triggered
The wiring for the injectors may have some bare spots in it causing the
injector to computer control wire to ground out. This would cause the
injector to remain on anytime the key was in the Run position. Remove the
injector wiring connectors from the injector. Note that each injector has one
red wire for power and a non red wire (wire some color other than red) for
computer controlled ground. With the key off, disconnect the computer
connector from the computer. Use an Ohmmeter between the non red wire
and ground. You should see more than 100000 (100K) ohms resistance.


See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) &
Stang&2Birds (website host) for help wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds



Using the above diagram, check the resistance between the injector and the
computer. Clean and check the 10 pin connectors since they are a potential
trouble source. Any resistance greater than 1 ohm between the injector to
computer wire and the matching pin on the computer connector is a problem.



See http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=6 for more help

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper
clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. You’ll need it to do
the cylinder balance test

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/





IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.



89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.



Injectors all test good: replace the ECT, since it has the greatest effect on cold engine fuel useage.

The other thing to check is to make sure the red/blue wire on the TFI module has 12 volts when you crank the engine. No 12 volts and the ignition switch or wiring is bad.

Try starting the car with the SPOUt removed. If it fires up much quicker, replace the PIP.

The Ford design turns the fuel pump on for a few seconds and then shuts off. This is to
prevent the engine from flooding and possiblly dumping raw fuel in the cylinders and
diluting the oil. With this in mind, it is possible that your pump is not providing pressure
due to a bad check valve, leaking injector, or bad fuel pressure regulator.