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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

long tube install question?

  • Thread starter Thread starter 98COBRA281
  • Start date Start date Jun 20, 2008

98COBRA281

10 Year Member
Nov 24, 2007
1,348
30
59
Port St. Lucie, Florida
Jun 20, 2008
#1
  • Jun 20, 2008
  • #1
can long tubes be installed when the heads are off the motor, i know that shorties can, i will be doing my head swap soon, and summit has flowtech lt's for 260$, and if i can install then without removing the k member i will buy them
 
B

BobHyatt

New Member
Aug 7, 2007
378
1
0
Jun 21, 2008
#2
  • Jun 21, 2008
  • #2
98COBRA281 said:
can long tubes be installed when the heads are off the motor, i know that shorties can, i will be doing my head swap soon, and summit has flowtech lt's for 260$, and if i can install then without removing the k member i will buy them
Click to expand...

That is the easiest way to install them if you are going to pull the heads anyway. Once they are out, the LTs will slip right in with lots of clearance to get them into position. Only issue is that you will probably want to remove all the exhaust manifold studs while you have the heads out (you can use the proper-sized e-torx bit or (I think) a 5,5mm 6 point will also work). Once the heads are in, it is very tight to move the headers around to get them over the studs without interference at the fender wells...

I've done this a couple of times while working on one of these... Once you get the heads in, you will probably find it easier to get the studs in and the nuts on after that if you remove the motor mount through bolts and raise the motor several inches... Clearance is tight and small thinwall sockets will help...
 

98COBRA281

10 Year Member
Nov 24, 2007
1,348
30
59
Port St. Lucie, Florida
Jun 21, 2008
#3
  • Jun 21, 2008
  • #3
BobHyatt said:
That is the easiest way to install them if you are going to pull the heads anyway. Once they are out, the LTs will slip right in with lots of clearance to get them into position. Only issue is that you will probably want to remove all the exhaust manifold studs while you have the heads out (you can use the proper-sized e-torx bit or (I think) a 5,5mm 6 point will also work). Once the heads are in, it is very tight to move the headers around to get them over the studs without interference at the fender wells...

I've done this a couple of times while working on one of these... Once you get the heads in, you will probably find it easier to get the studs in and the nuts on after that if you remove the motor mount through bolts and raise the motor several inches... Clearance is tight and small thinwall sockets will help...
Click to expand...

thanks alot... i never heard of any one doing it this way, but if your not tearing down the motor, i would rather just drop the k, but if im right there i going to have to buy them
 
B

BobHyatt

New Member
Aug 7, 2007
378
1
0
Jun 21, 2008
#4
  • Jun 21, 2008
  • #4
98COBRA281 said:
thanks alot... i never heard of any one doing it this way, but if your not tearing down the motor, i would rather just drop the k, but if im right there i going to have to buy them
Click to expand...

to get the heads off you are going to have exhaust manifolds loose anyway. I have found it easier to remove the manifold-to-hpipe bolts and pull a head out with the manifold still connected. And then put them back in the same way to avoid the clearance issues. But with LTs you are not going to attach those first and then get everything to fit in without a lot of wrestling around...
 

98COBRA281

10 Year Member
Nov 24, 2007
1,348
30
59
Port St. Lucie, Florida
Jun 21, 2008
#5
  • Jun 21, 2008
  • #5
BobHyatt said:
to get the heads off you are going to have exhaust manifolds loose anyway. I have found it easier to remove the manifold-to-hpipe bolts and pull a head out with the manifold still connected. And then put them back in the same way to avoid the clearance issues. But with LTs you are not going to attach those first and then get everything to fit in without a lot of wrestling around...
Click to expand...

yeah mm&ff had a write up on a 2v head swap, and they removed the heads and put them back on with the shorties, but everone says shorties are a waste, so i want long tubes to go with the P&P heads, i hoping for 240-250rwhp
 

TweekedGT

New Member
Jul 22, 2004
1,274
0
0
Alberta
Jun 22, 2008
#6
  • Jun 22, 2008
  • #6
Thge passenger side is a tight bitch and the drivers has the steering knuckle go right through the header tubes. Even with the heads off mine was still a real pain in the ass. If you have a stick car and you clutch is getting worn change the clutch now. A clutch change with longtubes is a real PITA.
 

98COBRA281

10 Year Member
Nov 24, 2007
1,348
30
59
Port St. Lucie, Florida
Jun 22, 2008
#7
  • Jun 22, 2008
  • #7
TweekedGT said:
Thge passenger side is a tight bitch and the drivers has the steering knuckle go right through the header tubes. Even with the heads off mine was still a real pain in the ass. If you have a stick car and you clutch is getting worn change the clutch now. A clutch change with longtubes is a real PITA.
Click to expand...

the clutch has about 4k miles on it
 
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