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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

long tube loudness

  • Thread starter Thread starter ADRENLN
  • Start date Start date Apr 12, 2004

ADRENLN

Active Member
Apr 16, 2003
2,342
3
49
NJ
Apr 12, 2004
#1
  • Apr 12, 2004
  • #1
if i were to go long tube does it make a exhaust system with cats that much louder? i really want to stay somewhat quiet but get the power of long tubes. i will go magnaflow catback for quietnesss, and i was thinking either the magnaflow x pipe, or the slp x, both would be catted.

ps if i were to go long tube, do i have to remove them to change out the clutch later down the road? thanks guys.
 
C

CottonBurnerz

Banned
May 10, 2003
1,554
0
0
Drink and Drive = Teh Lose
Apr 12, 2004
#2
  • Apr 12, 2004
  • #2
eehh.. I say Long tube get rids most of the popping noise you hear in the exhaust. In fact, I don't have any at all.. just some light puh..puh..phh sound when letting off the gas from high rpm.

Correct me if I'm wrong but that might be connected to detonation.. but I don't know how long tube would help prevent that..

For the clutch issue.. it depends of the manufacturer. BBK LT is requied to have the passenger side headers remove to get the transmission out.
 

StangLou

Active Member
Jul 9, 2003
1,264
0
36
Holly Springs, NC
Apr 12, 2004
#3
  • Apr 12, 2004
  • #3
With my setup... BBK L/T's and BBK catted mid, I have a very strong sound, but its not going to draw unwanted attention to my car. I got behind a guy with flows and an o/r pipe yesterday and his was louder than mine was. I still took him in 3rd though .
Im with cotton on this one though, I hear no popping sound since my L/T install. It just gives it more of a puh puh sound when downshifting which I think sounds better and not like Im backfiring .
As for your clutch questions, yes most L/T's you will have to remove to change a clutch. I went ahead and changed mine when I had the L/T's put on. Spec Stage II man 2nd best mod Ive done to the car!
 
6

68 & 00 GT

New Member
May 14, 2003
2,407
1
0
HOUSTON TEXAS
Apr 12, 2004
#4
  • Apr 12, 2004
  • #4
see my sig for video clip. Longtubes actually quieten our cars down some. My car is not that loud. I think mine is perfect. If you get Hookers, or Jet Hots you can pull the tranny to change the clutch w/o pulling a header. Add cats to my set up like you want and I think you'll be happy. Longtubes w/ catted x pipe plus magnapacks shold be close to my loudness. If you get Hookers, or Jet Hots just be prepared to wrap aluminum (coke can) around the slip fit section on the drivers side header w/ hose clamps to stop any exhaust leaking there (sounds weird - works perfectly though).
few more -
http://www.cap42.com/stang/burn1.mpg
http://www.cap42.com/stang/burn2.mpg
__________________
 

ADRENLN

Active Member
Apr 16, 2003
2,342
3
49
NJ
Apr 12, 2004
#5
  • Apr 12, 2004
  • #5
thanks for the replies and the vid's guys pretty cool. i wonder if the slp longtubes have to be taken out to change the clutch? i think you guys helped me make up my mind i want to go with long tubes. i like the slp cause they are stainless.
 

StangLou

Active Member
Jul 9, 2003
1,264
0
36
Holly Springs, NC
Apr 12, 2004
#6
  • Apr 12, 2004
  • #6
Arent they like $799 though!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I thought BBK was expensive. I was looking at SLP's stuff and I swear they wanted $799 for a set of L/T's ... and thats WITHOUT the midpipe!!!
 

ADRENLN

Active Member
Apr 16, 2003
2,342
3
49
NJ
Apr 13, 2004
#7
  • Apr 13, 2004
  • #7
yea they are expensive, but if i stay shorty i was going to get the jba's and they are expensive also. i thought i made up my mind, but im thought further about it and im back to not knowing.

my problem is i dont want to be scraping after a drop. i havent droped the car yet. i need a catted x so im trying to make the best choice possible.

i already skrewed up a couple of thinngs that cost me extra in the past.lol

if i go with the long tubes/ or if the x cats hangs too low i can only use the bullitt suspension. i would like the steeda sports to ge t rid of the wheel well gap.........i cant win.


if
 

StangLou

Active Member
Jul 9, 2003
1,264
0
36
Holly Springs, NC
Apr 13, 2004
#8
  • Apr 13, 2004
  • #8
Lol I feel your pain man. Did you ever get your exhaust gremlins fixed or is that why you are just looking to start over? I remember you posting about them a while ago, I just dont remember if anything was found? If you were looking for JBA shorties then they are almost as much as my BBK L/T's! I was looking at them as well, then just decided to go L/T If Im going to do it, might as well do it right .
My BBK L/T's stick out MAYBE 1/2" from the K member. Thats pushing it, probably more like 1/4" They are the lowest point on my car now, but they were my concern since I could possibly lower the car in the future. I was expecting like an inch and a half of L/T jutting out of the K member, to my suprise it was hardly anything My car could easily do an inch and 1/4 drop with no problem, possibly an inch and 1/2 without rubbing anything. I know most guys with L/T's and springs have had ok success by just taking it easy around speed bumps ect... I dont think they will stick out to much for you man, just my .02c.

 

ADRENLN

Active Member
Apr 16, 2003
2,342
3
49
NJ
Apr 14, 2004
#9
  • Apr 14, 2004
  • #9
hey stanglou thanks alot for your insight. i think we were bothing having the extended crank thing with our cars. you also might be talking about my exhaust blowing alot of white smoke, i think it is more like steam form dampness. as far as the car havin a hard start, it still does only if the engine is fully hot when i try to start it. ive learned to live with these problems, and my engine still ticks too.lol i am just going to drive it till it blows up

ill post what headers i go with when i make up my mind. im leaning toward the jbs just to avoid potential problems, but i would like 15hp as aposed to 5
 
2

2000GT

Founding Member
Nov 30, 1999
222
0
16
Apr 14, 2004
#10
  • Apr 14, 2004
  • #10
StangLou – I recall a while back you didn’t have SAE corrected #’s for your previous dyno pulls. I distinctly recall you telling me you didn’t have SAE numbers because you didn’t know the significance of them at the time of your previous dyno pulls, so therefore, you didn’t request them.

How were you able to get your numbers corrected from STD to SAE in your previous runs? Is that a typo in your sig.?
 
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