Long Tubes
- Thread starter lx92coupe
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Take this opportunity to swap in the newer style starter, I have a writeup in my build thread linked at the bottom of my signature, there was a link in the tech/tricks thread from LMR but the link is broken, anyway the only difference was I used a jumper at the solenoid on the starter instead of running a second wire, I used a 93 5.0 starter instead of the high dollar SVE starter.
Best update now, you'll thank me later.
Or not
Best update now, you'll thank me later.
Or not
foxbodybill89
Active Member
I put BBK long tubes in my 89 by myself in about a day and figured out what not to do. Jack up the entire car as high as you can on stands, the headers will actually go in from the bottom on both sides despite the instructions saying passenger side from top. Put a floor jack under front of oil pan with a piece of 2X4 on it, unbolt the two big engine mount nuts and carefully jack up the engine as high as you can while watching the hoses and wires along the firewall for pinching. Remove old headers, steering shaft, and engine mounts from the block. On the passenger side if you still have the smog hoses remove them also. You need as much room as possible on the sides. As stated above, replace the starter now because you will not get to it with the headers installed. Use a long 2X4 between the block and frame rails along with rolling the floor jack side to side to push the engine to one side as you put each header in. Install driver header first by going up from bottom with the front tip of the primary flange pointed up at about a 45 degree angle between bell housing and bottom of car, you'll figure out the angle and twist once you get under there and try it. Put header on loose with just a couple bolts to hold it and allow engine to move over more. Shove engine toward driver side and do same thing with the passenger header, it will be very tight but doable. Near the passenger side header flange, you may need to slightly grind the corner of the bell housing, my AOD header just barely touches on the edge. Bolt header up loosely with a couple bolts, bolt engine mounts back onto block, center engine with jack and let it back down on mounts. It will take some prying and shaking to get mount pins to sit back in, you must be centered and go straight back down on k-member pads. Finish bolting up headers after remounting engine to prevent tweaking headers. Reinstall steering shaft and smog equipment. The main keys are getting the car high enough off the ground to get the upward angle needed, and jacking engine high enough you can get sufficient side to side movement. Trying to fit headers from top does not work and will be an exercise in frustration. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the input. I have a 4 post lift with rolling jacks. I figured we would try to do it on the lift. I also have some raceramps and jack stands too How high are you talking?
foxbodybill89
Active Member
Oh, if you have a lift you're golden. Not many of us are so blessed to have one for this project and have to do it on the ground 
Don't unbolt both motor mounts at the same time. Unbolt one side at a time, and jack from the bottom. It will cause the engine to tilt and give you way more clearance. I can pull a header in 45 minutes with this method.
Kurt
The new BBK longtubes are in, thanks for the tips. He already had the small starter. This picture is of the old longtubes that were needing replaced, more than just pin holes. Leaks were causing screwy readings from O2 sensor on that side. I had tried to weld some of the holes, but could not get to them while in the car. And they were entirely wrapped in ITCHY fiberglass
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