Longtube install Q's

I've got a few questions regarding installing Mac longtubes. I know I have to jack the car up, but after I undid the motor mounts and loosened the bolts connecting it to the transmission and tried to jack it up, only the front went up. How can I get it up enough to fit them in? Also, if I unhook all of the smog stuff (the holes in the headers and h pipe are already capped), what should I do about the tube coming out of the smog pump and the one going into the intake manifold, and will this mess with the computer? Thanks in advance.
 
get a short belt or idler pulley to replace the smog pump.

also you can just leave the egr valve open(the part on the intake). thats what i did and it ran fine.

also I know when i installed my bbk long tubes i had to pull the starter and cold air intake on the passenger side and then slid it in from the top. on the driver side i had to disconect the steering shaft. also had the engine jacked up for both sides.
 
I only had to tilt the motor left and right to install my bbk headers. Didnt mess with the starter or the steering rack.

Do macs go around the rack? If then u will have to undo it.

Just make sure that everything is clear on the mounts...if nothing is getting caught up, the motor should rise up a few inches. I just jack one side so it tilts to the other, giving more room.
 
i was thinking about going to longtubes and xpipe, but i think my mind is made up to just put the money into the rear susp, kmember and a turbo kit.

post up your results with the swap though, since i would be going from the same shorties as you to the longtubes
 
mootang said:
also you can just leave the egr valve open(the part on the intake). thats what i did and it ran fine.
Careful, I think that lets unfiltered air into the engine. Better to cap the EGR off (either with an end cap screwed on, or with a plate bolted on where the EGR goes - or in between the EGR and intake.)

Maybe I'm wrong on that, but it seems that the EGR valve will still open (as directed by the computer) and let in unfiltered and unmetered air (bringing in dirt and risking a lean condition) - unless you program out the EGR.
 
Well, the headers are in the engine. We had to take off the alternator and throttle body, but they are now in place. I've still got to wrestle the driver side one around the dipstick so it'll go all the way up, but should be done tonight.
Jackie Chan: I seriously doubt I'll be getting it on the dyno to test any results, but I'll let you know the difference as measured by my sotp dyno.
GRGT1994: Thanks for the heads up, I'll cap it off with something.
 
I believe the torque specs are dictated by your bolts, not the heads. Hopefully you are using new head bolts. If they are ARP bolts, call their tech line. Or ARP puts a yellow paper in the box that tells you torque specs.

-Edit- Oh nuts, you are probably talking about the header bolts. I believe those go on at like 15 to 20 ft/lbs. That's from memory though, so I'm not sure.