Looking for HELP and IDEAS!

I sometimes have the same issue. Check and see if you have the firewall adjuster. If you do it, will be on the firewall just to the passenger side of your brake fluid reservoir. If you have a billet adjuster there, make sure it is adjusted out. Just grab the outer piece and turn it counterclockwise until its tight.

I have one and the prior owner stripped the screw that should be holding the back portion into the firewall. Every two or three joyrides, I have to pop back under there and adjust the clutch back out.

Clutch adjustment
Do the clutch adjustment first before considering any other problems. With the stock plastic quadrant and cable, pull up on the clutch pedal until it comes upward toward you. It will make a ratcheting sound as the self adjuster works. To release to tension of the stock quadrant, use a screwdriver to lift the ratchet paw up and out of engagement with the quadrant teeth.

Clutch pedal adjustment with aftermarket quadrant and cable: I like to have the clutch completely disengaged and still have about 1.5” travel left before the pedal hits the floor. This means that I have only about 1” of free play at the top before the pedal starts to disengage the clutch. Keep in mind that these figures are all approximate. When properly adjusted, there will not be any slack in the clutch cable. You will have 4-15 lbs preload on the clutch cable.

The quadrant needs to be replaced if you use any type of aftermarket cable or adjuster. My preference is a Ford Racing quadrant, adjustable cable and Steeda firewall adjuster. The adjustable Ford Racing cable is just as good as the stock OEM cable. It allows a greater range of adjustment than a stock cable with a aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster. Combined with the Steeda adjuster, it lets you set the initial cable preload and then fine tune the clutch engagement point to your liking without getting under the car.

Using a stock OEM cable, firewall adjuster and a single hook quadrant may result in not having any free pedal travel before the clutch starts to disengage. I found this out the hard way.

The binding common to adjustable cables is often due to misplacement of the adjusting nuts on the fork end of the cable. This will also cause the cable to wear and fray. Both nuts should be on the back side of the fork so that the domed nut faces the fork and the other nut serves as jam or locknut to the domed nut.

I'll field last portion of your question.

When you power level goes up high enough that you either need bigger injectors or you add a decent cam, you should goto mass air. Before that, it's not really necessary.
For the carb, don't even think about it, devalues the car, makes it harder to work on, it's not cost effective, provides little to no power gain. Just all around senseless.