I always find it odd when people cut budget at the camshaft, when it's the cheapest part of the H/C/I, and it influences the manners of the engine the most. If the extra $100~200 is going to break the bank, I don't know how you can afford to build the engine period!
...And you don't have to go "full" custom to get a decent cam. You can call Comp and have them reccomend you an OTS camshaft for your application.
...And you don't have to go "full" custom to get a decent cam. You can call Comp and have them reccomend you an OTS camshaft for your application.
I guess I am over thinking this. Why a short block from LMR? Is it just a stock block? Are you able to build a short block yourself? Surely a local machine shop could short block your stocker cheaper than shipping and what not from LMR. That would free up some cash for a better cam, heads, intake etc. Food for thought.
If your looking at the Forged set-up I could set you up with something a little more custom and suited for your needs at a great price, if your looking at the cast piston, cast ring combo that $700 price is hard to beat.
If you need a top half the Trickflow kit is a great option and will save you money and make a lot more power then those "x" heads, give you room to grow as well. I have had great success with that kit and can custom put it together so I use what ever cam I want (shelf or one of my customs), swap out for the better heads or intake as well.
Cam is critical to squeezing the power out, it is key to making power. In many cases it is why you see 10 sec 347 combos, and 14 second 347 combos...all the parts have to work together.
If you need a top half the Trickflow kit is a great option and will save you money and make a lot more power then those "x" heads, give you room to grow as well. I have had great success with that kit and can custom put it together so I use what ever cam I want (shelf or one of my customs), swap out for the better heads or intake as well.
Cam is critical to squeezing the power out, it is key to making power. In many cases it is why you see 10 sec 347 combos, and 14 second 347 combos...all the parts have to work together.
They were all good cams... 15 years ago. There is definitely better stuff out there now.
Something to be said about this^^^
First off, I'd get a compression test on your current motor (pretty cheap) then go from there
In the real world of rent and other bills and time...the more work you do, the cheaper it will be.
Being a mechanic, you could pull your motor and swap in a explorer motor in a day if all goes well
You've mentioned the big ones, other than that if it's a nice running motor you solve any of the oil consumption issues with the current motor you've got in the car (hopefully) for not too much money (I've seen complete explorer gt40 setups for well under $1k with all accessories still attached to it). You could throw a bit of work at the gt40p's and throw a matching cam at it and have a fun street car that behaves like it's basically stock.
I've been helping my neighbor do an Explorer swap, and while it's not terribly complicated, it's not exactly an overnight operation, either. Especially considering that no one in their right mind would run the stock Explorer cam, there is a fair amount of work involved. It may be cheaper to do an Explorer engine, but there is just as much, if not more, work involved with an Explorer swap than there is doing an HCI on a stock Mustang shortblock.