I have a 93 Gt that I just bought monday and yesterday I flushed the cooling system out and it idled for a while maybe 30 to 45 min just flushing the cooling system. well I drove it to work and it felt like it didn't have the power it did before I flushed the cooling system. So I thought I fouled a plug out. I bought some plugs for it and a msd cap and rotor. I pulled the plugs out and found they looked brand new and were autolite platiums. So I put them back in. Then I changed the cap and rotor and checked the timing and found the timing was good. Well I drove it down the road and it ran like it had the power back. So I thought that I had just got some moisture in the distributor cap. Then coming home from work tonight it was running good and strong then all of a sudden it hicupped and it lost the power like it did before. It sounds like it is running on 7 cylinders or not getting enough fuel. Could this be a fuel filter or an injector with trash in the screen? It sounds sick when I take off. Could it be an ignition problem? Thanks.
loss of power
- Thread starter FoxRod87
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ninety15.0
New Member
- Mar 10, 2004
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i think the first place you should start is by pulling codes. See what the computer thinks of the situation. Check Jrichkers site for code information or just search this forum. Next i would change out that fuel filter...its a cheap part and should be done every couple years anyways. Maybe run some fuel system cleaner through there after that.
I would also check/clean the O2's to see if they are dirty. Then check the ECT sensor for proper resistance according to jrichkers information. Clean the MAF element, EGR valve pintle/seat, and the ISC valve while you are at it.
That should be a good start...and if it doesnt fix it...then you just did all the right preventative maintenance and you know it will be in tip top shape after you get this problem solved. Good luck
I would also check/clean the O2's to see if they are dirty. Then check the ECT sensor for proper resistance according to jrichkers information. Clean the MAF element, EGR valve pintle/seat, and the ISC valve while you are at it.
That should be a good start...and if it doesnt fix it...then you just did all the right preventative maintenance and you know it will be in tip top shape after you get this problem solved. Good luck
ok thanks but who or where is jrichkers, how do I clean the O2's, what is the ECT sensor, what is the EGR valve pintle/seat, and the ISC valve? Thanks.
I R&R'd the fuel filter. The old one didn't look that old but changed it anyway. I was checking the ignition system out and found the coil was loose inside the piece of metal that is around it. I didn't think they were supposed to move at all. So maybe the coil is sometimes not getting a good connection all the time. What do you guys think?
Flavadave4
Active Member
Did you find jrichkers info? If you do a search in here for codes you will find it for sure! Gotta start with the codes!
EDIT- I found the website for dumping the codes and there meanings
http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
EDIT- I found the website for dumping the codes and there meanings
http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of a test lamp.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-7208-90-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of a test lamp.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-7208-90-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.
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