Lower control arm bolt question

Snikt89GT

New Member

Sep 6, 2006

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Deland, Florida

Nov 23, 2006

#1

• Nov 23, 2006

• #1

OK, i'm trying to get my rear lower control arms out. I've looked at a few different how-tos. I'm supporting the control arm with the jack and the axle itself is on jack stands. I took the nut off of the rear bolt but I can't get the bolt itself out.

All of the instructions just say 'remove the bolt' which doesn't mean anything. I've tried jacking up slowly and resetting a few times, just like the shocks to get the bolt in the right place. It's not moving though. I can turn the bolt with a socket but I can't get it to move horizontally at all. Am I a retard or is it just stuck? Help.

Thanks

 

8

86bluecobra

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Dec 20, 2004

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Nov 23, 2006

#2

• Nov 23, 2006

• #2

any chance you can hit it with a hammer. just a tap then use a punch to get it the rest of the way out.

 

Snikt89GT

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Sep 6, 2006

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Deland, Florida

Nov 23, 2006

#3

• Nov 23, 2006

• #3

86bluecobra said:

any chance you can hit it with a hammer. just a tap then use a punch to get it the rest of the way out.

Click to expand...

Theres like 0 room to swing a hammer with the backing plate in the way. I tried hitting it the best I can though and it didn't move a mm

 

8

86bluecobra

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#4

• Nov 23, 2006

• #4

can you get a wrench perhaps around the head of the bolt and pry it out. You could also fit a wrench up on the thread side of the bolt and pry on it to move out a little.

 

95opal

5 Year Member

Nov 16, 2004

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#5

• Nov 23, 2006

• #5

86bluecobra said:

any chance you can hit it with a hammer. just a tap then use a punch to get it the rest of the way out.

Click to expand...

Thats pretty much how I did it. You can also play with the tension on the control arm w/ the jack.

 

Snikt89GT

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Sep 6, 2006

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Nov 23, 2006

#6

• Nov 23, 2006

• #6

I give up for tonight, I can't make the bolt move at all with any tools that I have.

I even tried the other side and had the exact same results

 

rd

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Jan 12, 2000

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Ocean Springs MS

Nov 23, 2006

#7

• Nov 23, 2006

• #7

It's best to have a jackstand under the torquebox so the weight of the car is not on the arm or axle, etc.

Also need a stand under the axle.

Then jack the lower arm until there is no load on the bolt and arm and axle. It should come out, by prying, pulling or a combination.

The only thing it can stick in is the metal sleeve in the lower arm bushing. I have never had trouble getting them out, even using firewood for blocks and all hand tools.

You could try unscrewing it while prying on the other end.

 

Shakerhood

20+ Year Stangneter

Oct 28, 2004

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Nov 23, 2006

#8

• Nov 23, 2006

• #8

An Air Chisel with the pointed bit should drive it right out, the Bolts Seize up inside the metal sleeve in the bushings, make sure you put Anti-Seize on your New Bolts.

 

Snikt89GT

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Nov 23, 2006

#9

• Nov 23, 2006

• #9

I'll give some of these suggestions a shot tomorrow, hopefully with better results. I feel like this suspension project is going to take forever. Not even done with the rear yet, and most of the hard stuff is in the front.

Haven't really had a day to work on it though, just been picking at it here and there

 

Snikt89GT

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Nov 24, 2006

#10

• Nov 24, 2006

• #10

Geeez........ Well I finally got one of them out. Take a look at this bolt. I was going to re-use them, but not anymore..

It took a combination of a mini-sledge hammer, pry bar, and coil spring compressor to get some of the load off of the control arm. Even with the spring compressed it still took a ton of hammering to get it off.

Look how corroded inside the control arm too.

View attachment 421949

View attachment 421951

View attachment 421953

 

C

C6AE

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Mar 22, 2004

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Ma.

Nov 24, 2006

#11

• Nov 24, 2006

• #11

I swapped a rear in my '91 Coupe and had the same trouble. I was able to pound the bolts out, but the rear was on the ground. Decided I didn't like the looks of them either once they were out.
Trying to get those bolts out reminded me of changing the rear leafs on my "66

 

Shakerhood

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#12

• Nov 24, 2006

• #12

Make sure you put Anti-Seize on the new bolts so if you need to take it apart again it wont be as bad!

 

Snikt89GT

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Nov 25, 2006

#13

• Nov 25, 2006

• #13

I've been working pretty solid since I posted last on the other control arm and it's still not out... I've spent probably 6-8 hours on these 2 bolts now. It's only probably 50-70% out. This is the most corroded, hardest bolt to take out i've ever seen.

I don't know how a shop would do this, but I can't think of any tools that would even help

 

Shakerhood

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#14

• Nov 25, 2006

• #14

The Air Chisel hammers them out ok. You can buy new Nuts and Bolts for the Arms from Greens.

 

Maryland Stang

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Aug 21, 2002

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Nov 25, 2006

#15

• Nov 25, 2006

• #15

I'm with Shakerhood. Mine looked just like that and I had to use a air chisel to get them out.

I have a quick question for you. The upper control arm looks like it's brand new. Please don't tell me you went to all the trouble of removing it only to put a stock arm back in.

 

Snikt89GT

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Nov 25, 2006

#16

• Nov 25, 2006

• #16

Maryland Stang said:

I'm with Shakerhood. Mine looked just like that and I had to use a air chisel to get them out.

I have a quick question for you. The upper control arm looks like it's brand new. Please don't tell me you went to all the trouble of removing it only to put a stock arm back in.

Click to expand...

Nope, i'm putting Pro3i arms in. Stock ones are going in the garbage.

I don't know how you would get an air hammer on it, the backing plate is in the way of that too. Not much to hammer on anymore anyway since the since the bolt is moved about an inch or so out and there isn't much sticking out anymore on the other side.

 

Snikt89GT

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Sep 6, 2006

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Deland, Florida

Nov 25, 2006

#17

• Nov 25, 2006

• #17

Shakerhood said:

The Air Chisel hammers them out ok. You can buy new Nuts and Bolts for the Arms from Greens.

Click to expand...

Greens? What is the site?

 

Maryland Stang

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#18

• Nov 25, 2006

• #18

Snikt89GT said:

I don't know how you would get an air hammer on it, the backing plate is in the way of that too. Not much to hammer on anymore anyway since the since the bolt is moved about an inch or so out and there isn't much sticking out anymore on the other side.

Click to expand...

Nobody said it was going to be easy, it's just easier than trying to hammer and chisel it out. The air chisel won't go straight into the bolt, you have to hold it at an angle. Yes, it will slip off a thousand times but that's the only way I know of to get them out when they're stuck.

 

Snikt89GT

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Deland, Florida

Nov 25, 2006

#19

• Nov 25, 2006

• #19

Yep, you guys were right.

Air grinder + air hammer = win.

Now I hope the front bolts won't be that bad.

View attachment 421706

 

DMAN302

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#20

• Nov 25, 2006

• #20

And that's the lucky part about finding a southern car...I was actually able to REuse my old hardware, probably the only thing that's gone well when working on my ford.