Lower control Arms

mhanksii · Jul 15, 2007

I want to start working on my suspension by replacing those flexible lower control arms out back but have a few question first.

If you have no idea what you are doing but like the idea of adjustable lower arms, where can I learn about setting them and keeping them adjusted for good traction

Is there an advantage to adjustables over non-adjustables?

Would replacing the 3rd link be a better place to start?
thanks everyone in advance and good lord, :Track:

Hoboattacker · Jul 15, 2007

Adjustable is where you want to go if you are going to lower your car. Bigcat knows a ton more than I do on this, but from reading some of his posts when you lower your car you change the "instant center" of the car. This effects how well weight is transferred from front to rear and all that jazz. Being able to adjust them will help you dial in this instant center quite well. If you leave it at stock height, you will have to adjust the new LCA's to stock length to keep the instant center the same (from what I understand...somebody correct me if I'm wrong).

There are different types of LCA's too. Poly ends, Poly/Rod ends, and then Rod ends. Poly ends are street use, Poly/Rod is street/strip, and Rod is strip. I run with the Rod ends on the street and I love it. No complaints here and whenever I get a squeak I go up under the car with a thing of grease and just lube up the LCA's again and it's fine.

Oh, and do the install yourself, it's so easy you just can't go to a shop to have it done.

bigcat · Jul 16, 2007

control arm relocation brackets change the instant center of the car. the adjustable lower arms do not. with adjustable lowers, you can change the pinion angle, but it also changes your wheelbase as well. if you shorten the length of the lower arm, it will move the whole rear end forward in the car. this also makes your tires move forward in the opening. IMO. dont get the adjustable lowers for a street car. choice of bushing type is up to you, but why get the adjustable lowers unless it is a race car that sees mostly track time AND you know how/why to adjust the lowers for best ETs.

there are some advantages to the adjustable lowers if you are a hardcore racer. for the average joe, it adds too much complication into the picture to be useful.

if your car is lowered, and you want to improve traction, the best way to do it is to get the relocation brackets. adjustable arms will not help you in most cases, and will bring on more frustration.

for some useful information on how the 3 link works, check out my other post here: http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?p=6987143#post6987143

there is much more going on with a 3 link than most people realize. that link will help most understand the basics.

if any of that does not make sense, let me know and i will try to explain it better.

mhanksii · Jul 22, 2007

Are all billet lower control arms created equally?

Ok once more some great information from some great Mustang owners! Thanks guys and Big Cat!

I have decided to start my suspension mods with non-adjustable lower control arms of the billet verity. I have looked at many different brands and only the price changes, but changes a lot. Is there a difference to speak of and who has the best?

1550GT · Aug 16, 2007

I have the same questions since I would like to also do some suspension mods. If I do not plan on lowering the car, should I get both upper and lower control arms and a panhard bar nonadjustable or would it be better to have an adjustable panhard bar and upper control arm just in case I later add springs and it lowers the car somewhat?

What are the minimum suspension mods I should do to make the car stick alittle better while cornering hard?
I just mainly want to play on the street.

DarkFireGT · Aug 16, 2007

Adjustable panhard bar is very easy to adjust and doesn't require skills beyond your average Mustang owner. I would say get that adjustable, but everything else non-adjustable.

1550GT · Aug 16, 2007

What is involved in adjusting the upper control arm? Do you need something to check for a correct angle or is it a simple measurement and then adjust the UCA?

I probably will not get adjustable control arms because I do not plan on lowering the car at this time but just wanted to cover all the bases in case I later change springs and need adjustable control arms.

lightblade · Aug 16, 2007

For the LCA which is better, tubular steel, or lighter billet aluminum? And how are the stock sway bars? to they really need replaced?, I see alot of suspension kits that come with new sway bars. ( I have a vert btw) and plan on doing the eibach kit, or bilstein/H&R kit at maximum motorsports, thanks.

ShawnyB · Aug 17, 2007

I have the Bushingless LCAs on my Stang with the Urethane UCA.
The ride is terrible! Too much vibration , clicking and clanging coming from the rear axle now. I can't wait to put a set of urethane LCAs in in place of my spherical jointed ones. They are great at the track but not for daily driver. Def get the urethane ones for every day use.

stang8urimport · Aug 17, 2007

I have BMR non adjustable lowers on my car with urethane bushings. Even with the urethane, the noise from the rear end went wayyy up. Just a trade off though. I can now do burn outs with ease and no wheel hop.

ccramer · Aug 18, 2007

All I can say is go with the J&M (hotpart.com) arms with the new poly-ball bushing setup. I believe they are the same ones bigcat uses. The quality is top notch and they made a huge difference with no NVH increase. I know somebody who removed his BMR lca's and put the J&M's on and he said his NVH went down and the car handled better. Just my $.02.

Hoboattacker · Aug 19, 2007

Rod ends all the way. I daily drive it and it's pretty much awesome. No regrets here, especially for $100 bucks.

mhanksii · Aug 19, 2007

No one has said how to adjust the UCA yet. I have billet BMR LCA with relocation brackets and really do want to get the UCA and Pan hard bar, but have no clue how to adjust one. Any help?

By the way I love the difference with the LCA'a, I didn't install them without the relocation brackets though. I have been in a car with similar horse power without relocation brackets and the weight transfer was much slower and the rear just felt like it didn't want to plant.

bigcat · Aug 20, 2007

i have been busy lately, and just skim through the threads, so i may have missed it, but which LCAs did you end up buying?

about the UCA adjustment. to adjust, most just have jamb nuts that you loosen to adjust, then tighten back up once you are done. here is one example, from BMR.

i almost forgot to add my info about the J&M LCAs. with the ball bushing, i did not notice any more NVH than before. i was very suprised. i dont know if that is just an added bonus, or they planned it like that, but they ride just like stock till its time to hook up.

mhanksii · Aug 22, 2007

bigcat said:
i have been busy lately, and just skim through the threads, so i may have missed it, but which LCAs did you end up buying?

about the UCA adjustment. to adjust, most just have jamb nuts that you loosen to adjust, then tighten back up once you are done. here is one example, from BMR.

i almost forgot to add my info about the J&M LCAs. with the ball bushing, i did not notice any more NVH than before. i was very suprised. i dont know if that is just an added bonus, or they planned it like that, but they ride just like stock till its time to hook up.

I bought the BMR Billet LCA. I am loving them, I can shoot off stop lights now and not just sit there and spin my tires making a lot of noise.

I didn't ask the right question. When I was asking how to adjust the UCA, I ment how do I know when I have it set right. I have read that the pan hard bar is right when the wheels are centered, is there and easy measurement for adjusting the UCA also? Thanks for the help in advance.

bigcat · Aug 23, 2007

you measure the pinion angle. lemme see if i can find a good write up somewhere about it. you will need a magnetic angle finder to do it.

edit: heres a good link! book mark this page. http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/info/pinionangle.htm

Mr_Q · Aug 23, 2007

I have the new J&M LCAs. A new design of a hybrid of poly inner and rubber outer bushings.

What they allow for is nice strong support for straight line launches but retain some flexibility for side to side. So the end result is a much improved stiffer LCA without all the poly bushing noise and some room for better suspension compliance.

mhanksii · Aug 23, 2007

bigcat said:
you measure the pinion angle. lemme see if i can find a good write up somewhere about it. you will need a magnetic angle finder to do it.

edit: heres a good link! book mark this page. http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/info/pinionangle.htm

Thanks that was an easy read and doesn't seem to hard.

bigcat · Aug 24, 2007

Mr_Q said:
I have the new J&M LCAs. A new design of a hybrid of poly inner and rubber outer bushings.

What they allow for is nice strong support for straight line launches but retain some flexibility for side to side. So the end result is a much improved stiffer LCA without all the poly bushing noise and some room for better suspension compliance.

+1 great item! i love mine.

1550GT · Oct 8, 2007

I do not have much wheel hop. I was thinking about upgrading the stock UCA and the LCA with the J&M non adjustable ones, and also the panhard bar. My only performance mods are a CAI and a tune. Do I need to replace both the UCA and the LCA or just the LCA? I do not plan on lowering the car so should i go with a nonadjustable ph bar, or would you suggest getting an adjustable one anyway.

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