lowering suspension quesions

8chum8 · Jan 25, 2010

I have a 2000 mustang gt and I am planning on installing 2" lowering springs. I am having the hardest time trying to find out what other mods are necessary for the alignment to be done correctly. Do I need C/C plates? Do I need a bump steer kit? Do I need both or more? And once I have all the correct mods can my local alignment shop properly align the car?

Any input would be much appreciated.

Thanks

deftsound · Jan 26, 2010

Yes you will need CC plates, yes you will need to get it aligned afterwards. You shouldn't need a bumpsteer kit but you might, i would get one anyway just to be on the safe side.

Any shop should be able to align it properly.

fshawn50 · Jan 26, 2010

I did all that you had mentioned and had offset rack bushings and shorter swaybar endlinks installed aswell??

deftsound · Jan 26, 2010

fshawn50 said:
I did all that you had mentioned and had offset rack bushings and shorter swaybar endlinks installed aswell??

Do what????

If you're saying you had a shop install the offset rack bushing and shorter swaybar endlinks because they say you needed it, you got screwed. Not to say they aren't good modifications but they definitely aren't necessary.

Rickyll7 · Jan 26, 2010

Did some reading on the MM web site a while back and I thought I remember reading that bump steer kits and offset rack bushings will hurt you if you are all stock except lowering springs.

The outer tie rod needs to be parallel to the lower control arm and lowering the car via springs wont change that geometry unless you have non-stock control arms, k-member, or ball joints.

I think they do recommend a shorter sway bar link if you are lowered 1.5 inch or more or something like that.

You may not need CC plates and wont really know until you try to get it alligned, but they will help a lot by making the alignment easier and will give you more options for alignment specs.

peepeeskillz · Jan 26, 2010

i lowered mine about 2.5 inches(im guessing here, sportlines no isos) and i installed a set of C/C plates but never got it aligned and my fronts dont seem to really be wearing unevenly but they are already pretty worn anyway

8chum8 · Jan 26, 2010

Rickyll7 said:
Did some reading on the MM web site a while back and I thought I remember reading that bump steer kits and offset rack bushings will hurt you if you are all stock except lowering springs.

The outer tie rod needs to be parallel to the lower control arm and lowering the car via springs wont change that geometry unless you have non-stock control arms, k-member, or ball joints.

I think they do recommend a shorter sway bar link if you are lowered 1.5 inch or more or something like that.

You may not need CC plates and wont really know until you try to get it alligned, but they will help a lot by making the alignment easier and will give you more options for alignment specs.

I'm going 2". So you think if I get the C/C plates and swaybar links i should be good? (any sugguestions on swaybar links? probably going with MM C/C plates)

THANKS for everybody's input, much appreciated.

Rickyll7 · Jan 26, 2010

8chum8 said:
I'm going 2". So you think if I get the C/C plates and swaybar links i should be good? (any sugguestions on swaybar links? probably going with MM C/C plates)

THANKS for everybody's input, much appreciated.

Yeah, that should work great.

I've got MM's CC plates and sway bar links and I think they are great.

johnnyt03gt · Jan 26, 2010

i remember last year when i dropped my stang

johnnyt03gt · Jan 26, 2010

8chum8 · Jan 26, 2010

Thanks again guys...... one more question........can I squeeze 18/9 in front and 18/10 in rear?

san~man · Jan 27, 2010

peepeeskillz said:
i lowered mine about 2.5 inches(im guessing here, sportlines no isos) and i installed a set of C/C plates but never got it aligned and my fronts dont seem to really be wearing unevenly but they are already pretty worn anyway

Better get the toe checked, it's probably off.

8chum8 said:
Thanks again guys...... one more question........can I squeeze 18/9 in front and 18/10 in rear?

Yes with the right offset.

Skidawg · Jan 27, 2010

As far as I know, once you start getting to the 2" drop range, you need to start adding parts. Stuff like ball joints, bumpsteer kit and CC plates. There's probably more stuff you can add - as there is with any mod.

You also need the initial allignment and then get an additional allignment once the car settles.

fiveoho · Jan 27, 2010

just lowered my 2000 GT and used the same setup on my 95. never had any problems.

the following parts are all NEW and all the prices below INCLUDE tax AND shipping. deals are out there, just had to look around for a few days to find them

*eibach sportline springs (auto-sports-parts-ebay) : $217.00

*upr steel 'shark' cc plates (billetdepot-ebay) : $109.91

*gabriel guardian shocks/struts (autozone) : $109.71

*energy suspension front/rear isolators (summit) : $51.45

total spent on parts : $488.07

an alignment at your local ford dealership should $59

the cc plates are considered by others as "bottom of the line". while that may be, they make no noise and worked just fine. only issue was that i believe i was shorted two spacers by mistake. i came up with two to eliminate the slack.

the shocks and struts are more than i expected. i nearly bought the KYB G2's but after speaking with their customer service and learning those shocks are 12% stiffer than stock, i chose oem-like as a alternative for a stock-like ride. the gabriel guardians are stock replacements and work GREAT. excellent ride quality and price

the prices listed are all current and the parts i got from ebay were BIN auctions from companies, not individuals. anyone could have the same setup for the same money

this is a good setup. not the best out there but it is functional and with a proper alignment your tires will wear evenly.

Rickyll7 · Jan 27, 2010

Skidawg said:
As far as I know, once you start getting to the 2" drop range, you need to start adding parts. Stuff like ball joints, bumpsteer kit and CC plates. There's probably more stuff you can add - as there is with any mod.

You also need the initial allignment and then get an additional allignment once the car settles.

Where did you read that modified ball joints and bump steer kits are required for just lowering a car?

I agree that cc plates are most likely needed at 2 inches or more drop.

flstang65 · Jan 27, 2010

We had to add the bushings to move the steering rack an a friends car, along with the C/C plates and bump steer kit to make everything work out nicely.

Skidawg · Jan 27, 2010

Rickyll7 said:
Where did you read that modified ball joints and bump steer kits are required for just lowering a car?

I agree that cc plates are most likely needed at 2 inches or more drop.

I didn't say "required", I said "needed". In order for the car to handle correctly and for the suspension to work as it was before the drop.

I learned everything about this at this informative site:
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/

Rickyll7 · Jan 27, 2010

MM Website:

"Why offset rack bushings are a bad idea for stock K-members

Although sold by many as a supposed cure for bumpsteer, installing offset steering rack bushings on a stock K-member make an acceptable situation far worse than if you had done nothing at all. How do we know this? Because we did testing. We measured the bumpsteer, both with and without offset rack bushings. Our test results were first published in the July 1993 issue of Super Ford." Maximum Motorsports - Steering Rack Bushing Tech

I imagine that modified ball joints would have similar results as the offset rack bushings.

And unless you follow the procedures to actually set the bump steer with the bump steer kit (adjustable tie rod ends), I think you would be wasting your money on those as well. Instructions: http://www.maximummotorsports.com/content/install/pdf/steering/MMTR-2-4-7r2.pdf

Also, those instructions specifically state that you don’t need those tie rod ends unless you have adjusted your caster beyond factory specs or have a 1979-93 car that has a stock K member and spindles from a 1994-95 car.

1low03gt · Jan 27, 2010

When i lowered my '03 GT with the Eibach Sportlines,i needed C&C plates,they were a must,and "FOXBODY" struts up front of your choice,and preference.The SN95/new edge struts will bottom out,and will not last as long.The lower you drop your stang,the less travel you will have in the struts.The foxbody struts have a shorter strut shaft (foxbodies don't come with the same 4X4 suspension as the SN95's/new edge),and will allow more travel in the suspension.Now for the rear shocks,i've read,and heard that there is no didfference in lengths between the foxbody's,and SN95/new edge's.
As for the rest of the stuff,like bump steer kit's,and X2 ball joints and stuff,never did them,and i've had my suspension like this since new in '03.The way i was looking at it,unless i'm tracking my GT in the twisties,why waste my money.

RenDawg408 · Jan 28, 2010

About 3 years ago I lowered my 04' Mustang GT with the Eibach Prokit, 1.5" springs. I didn't bother getting the camber kit & just got the alignment & after a year or so later found out that my front inner tires were eating away fast. It's sad because the rest of the threading on the tire was like brand new, but the inside was wearing away fast. I had to purchase two front tires. After that I decided to get some MM Camber Plates. BTW, I get my car aligned every 6 months except this last year when I went a little over a year without an alignment. As usual I take my car in to get the tires balanced & they tell me I need new tires again because of the excessive wear on the inside. What happened to my CC plates? Did it really make that much of a difference for not getting an alignment at 6 months? It sucks cuz now I have to buy tires again!

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