LRS 4lug rear disc conversion...

I put that kit on my previous '92 and was very happy with it.

I know there might be less expensive ways to gather everything you need to do this, but I wanted a COMPLETE, NEW kit. I didn't want to have to worry about finding pieces and parts all over the place (brackets, fittings, variety of master cylinders, etc.), ordering things from multiple vendors, missing tiny little (necessary) pieces and then being concerned about compatibility, etc. I barely have enough time to work on the car when I want to, let alone piecing things together.

The kit was good quality, instructions were good, and install was relatively simple (IIRC, I had the hardest time hooking up the E-brake cables).

When I take care of all the other things with my current '92 (suspension stuff right now), I'll most likely end up getting that kit again for exactly the same reasons.

KamiKaziDK said:

79-93 4 Lug Ford Fox Body Mustang Brake Upgrades

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Been there and done that! With success!

Do the 87-88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe rear end swap!

Auto trans 87-88 Tbird Turbo Coupes come with 3.73 gears and manual Turbo Coupes come with 3.55 gears.
Cost is $125-$300 for the rear axle. Add another $100-$200 or so to complete the brake upgrade.

I choose 3.55 since I do more highway driving. Both ratios have 10 5/16" disk brakes with vented rotors as standard equipment.

It takes 2 guys the first day to get the old rear end out and the new one bolted in place.
It takes 1 guy another whole day to do the brakes.

You will need a several sets of fittings, I recommend that you get them from Matt90GT's website,
87-93 Mustang 5.0 Brake upgrade pages. Improve your 60-0 times!. Read Matt's instructions thoroughly, everything you need to
know about the brakes is all there. You need to be patient and follow all the internal links, and
there are many of them. You will need 2 fittings in the rear to adapt your old brake tubing
to the TC disk brakes. The fittings go between the steel tube and the caliper brake hose.
You will need another set of fittings to make a 2 port to 3 port adapter. To make life simpler,
just buy the kits from Matt. You could piece them together, but it's not worth the time unless
you work at an auto parts store with all the fittings ever made.

You will need to drill the quad shock mounting holes 2” below the holes drilled for the Turbo Coupe
mounting points. The bolts are metric, so don’t loose them or the nuts. A 15/32” drill should be
about the right size unless you have access to metric sized drill bits. Going without quad shocks is
not an option unless you have aftermarket parts to soak up the wheel hop.

You will need a proportioning valve, Summit has one for $42 + shipping. Wilwood 260-8419
You will need a kit (FMS makes the part) to gut the stock proportioning valve, Summit also
has that, about $18. Ford Racing M-2450-A

You will need a new master cylinder, see Matt's site and make you choice. I used a 94-95 Mustang
master cylinder. Note that rebuilt 94-95 Mustang master cylinders do not come with a reservoir.
That means a trip to the junkyard and some more money spent.

Your brake pedal may be very hard and almost impossible to lock up the brakes. I had to replace
the front calipers with 73 mm calipers from a 91 Lincoln Mark 7 to get the braking performance up to par.

You can use the stock 5.0 booster if it is in good working condition. No need to replace the booster.

Bleeding the brakes will require 2 people and some coordinated effort. I don’t recommend using your
wife or girlfriend to pump the pedal – they get offended when you yell at them. I used a homemade
power brake bleeder constructed from a garden sprayer and some fittings from Home Depot. It cost
about $25 and was worth every penny. See how hard is it to bleed brakes? - Mustang Forums at StangNet
for details and pictures.

See Mustang Central.net FMS M2300K Brake Install for help with the emergency brake. The red words
link to some very useful photos on how to modify the handle. The stock setup tends to lock up and not release properly.
All in all I have been very pleased with the results.
Identifying a Turbo Coupe rear axle:
1.) Measure the rotors - a TC disk brake uses 10 5/16" vented rotors.
2.) Measure the length of the quad shock mount arm and compare it to the mount on your existing stock axle.
The TC quad shock mount arm is about 8" long if I remember correctly.
3.) Measure the distance between the axle flanges and compare it to stock. The TC rear axle assembly is
3/4" wider per side, or 1 1/2" wider for both sides.

north cal race brackets. 93 cobra disk and caibers. make new hard lines and new fittings. and your done.

I've been reading that site that lists the parts you need to get to do this conversion.

But I'm not finding the huge price savings (unless I'm just not shopping the right places).

Northracecar Brakets: $160
New master cylinder: $100
(2) Cobra rear calipers (with pads): $200
Proportioning valve: $50
(2) Rear Rotors: $125

That doesn't include the 3-2 conversion for the Master Cylinder or E-brake cables or any other of the little fittings and plugs and I'm already over $600.

Am I missing something? Where can I look to get these pieces at better pricing?

Mustang5L5 said:

You can't use the Cobra calipers with the t-bird setup. At least i don't think you can

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The '93 Cobra, TC, and 91-92 Mark VII use the same calipers. Some Taurus' and MN12s used the same calipers also I think. The I'm 99.9% sure that the 91-92 Mark VII rear brake set up is the '93 Cobra R rear brakes, and I think I got them to work with SN95 axles.

The cheapest plan is the 87-88 T Bird Turbo Coupe rear axle. You get rear disks and your choice of 3.55 or 3.73
rear gears in the package. The resulting swap gives you the same rear axle and brakes as on the 93 Mustang Cobra.

jrichker said:

The cheapest plan is the 87-88 T Bird Turbo Coupe rear axle. You get rear disks and your choice of 3.55 or 3.73
rear gears in the package. The resulting swap gives you the same rear axle and brakes as on the 93 Mustang Cobra.

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OK - NOW I can see where the savings would be. I've already swapped rear gears and have been looking into just doing the rear disc conversion with my existing axle set up. So, based on what I have been reading and the input here, I'm still comfortable with the SSBC rear disc conversion as a relatively financially comparative set.