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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

maaco a bad choice as usual?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Adams91LX
  • Start date Start date Nov 27, 2006
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niklid05

New Member
Aug 20, 2004
140
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0
Kutztown PA 19530
Nov 28, 2006
#21
  • Nov 28, 2006
  • #21
RsStanG1987 said:
I have had no problem taking them off. A hairdryer and a guitar string work wonders.. Just lay them on the groundflat when storing them..
Click to expand...


good advice, Macgyver.



its good advice though lol. you can reuse them. If you take them off carefully they can be reused.
 
D

danistanggt

New Member
Oct 29, 2006
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running down the gravel road leaving you in my dus
Nov 28, 2006
#22
  • Nov 28, 2006
  • #22
all i know is that when my car got painted i could not find new mouldings.

i would like to see the link too....please?
 

idareu

20+ Year Stangneter
Jan 6, 2004
86
79
29
Apopka, FL
Nov 28, 2006
#23
  • Nov 28, 2006
  • #23
Link to article:

Go to http://www.foureyedpride.com/

Look on the left hand side of the screen for "Tech Articles" & Click on it.

Look at the last article on the page titled "79-84 Mustang/Capri Bodyside Molding Restoration"

I would provide a direct link, but I'm sure their website could use the hits.
 

93gtmustang

10 Year Member
Oct 21, 2006
515
43
49
Nov 28, 2006
#24
  • Nov 28, 2006
  • #24
About using Maaco. When I bought my car last year, the clear coat was peeling off the hood like skin from a sun burn. I was just going to deal with it because the car was going to be used for drag racing, not a show car. I hated the red with the silver bottom paint scheme!
I went to Maaco, the guy who ran the place was really good. I went with the stage 3 option which is paint and clear coat in 1. Cost me about $1000.00. Had the whole car painted dark blue mettalic. I really didn't have him do much prep, just the rear bumper that was cracking and a good ding on the drivers door. I'm very happy with the results. Like I said , it's not show quality, but it looks good to me. It depends what you are after. It depends who owns the shop also. I lucked out.The paint job gets good compliments at the drag strip. I was going to put a picture in this post. I can't figure out how?
 

90blacknight

Member
Apr 11, 2006
136
0
18
Nov 28, 2006
#25
  • Nov 28, 2006
  • #25
Nothing wrong with painting the moldings while on the car. A good prep and some bumper paint and you're good to go.
 

mustangjoe87

Member
Jul 23, 2004
364
0
16
Harrison Twp., Michigan
Nov 28, 2006
#26
  • Nov 28, 2006
  • #26
jinx369 said:
I'm not as motivated to go to the junkyard.

Molding is my enemy. I re-applied each peice back onto my car, and the drivers side I finally gave up on. I'll let someone from the autobody deal with that nightmare.

I should have asked how to get the adhesive off, on :SNSign: before I did it myself. I used a combo of a leathermen, a knife, and my fingers to remove the adhesive tape. Who would of thought, it would be painful.
Click to expand...

If you want to remove the adhesive on the back or from the car the best way is to use a rubber eraser wheel. You put it in the end of your power drill and go to town, they work pretty well and cost about 5-10 dollars depending on brand.
 
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niklid05

New Member
Aug 20, 2004
140
0
0
Kutztown PA 19530
Nov 28, 2006
#27
  • Nov 28, 2006
  • #27
93gtmustang said:
About using Maaco. When I bought my car last year, the clear coat was peeling off the hood like skin from a sun burn. I was just going to deal with it because the car was going to be used for drag racing, not a show car. I hated the red with the silver bottom paint scheme!
I went to Maaco, the guy who ran the place was really good. I went with the stage 3 option which is paint and clear coat in 1. Cost me about $1000.00. Had the whole car painted dark blue mettalic. I really didn't have him do much prep, just the rear bumper that was cracking and a good ding on the drivers door. I'm very happy with the results. Like I said , it's not show quality, but it looks good to me. It depends what you are after. It depends who owns the shop also. I lucked out.The paint job gets good compliments at the drag strip. I was going to put a picture in this post. I can't figure out how?
Click to expand...

go get an account at www.photobucket.com its free or I wouldnt have it haha and upload the pictures there. Then copy the link and paste it here
 

93gtmustang

10 Year Member
Oct 21, 2006
515
43
49
Nov 28, 2006
#28
  • Nov 28, 2006
  • #28
Here's the link for the photo.

http://photosbyjim.smugmug.com/photos/95862722-L.jpg

This is the main page for all photos taken this year at the drag strip. Check it out! There's some good pictures of Mustangs drag racing!!! Sept. 16th is the Mustang Showdown.

http://photosbyjim.smugmug.com/

Drag Strip Site

http://www.dragway.com/Drags/home.htm
 

Mustang78

New Member
Feb 8, 2006
486
0
0
Aberdeen, WA
Nov 28, 2006
#29
  • Nov 28, 2006
  • #29
When i relpaced a door, i had to swap moldings on that door and put on one on the driver's side rear that was always missing, i went to the junkyard for the missing one..it was rock hard so it didnt warp, the door side however did warp, so i took a propane torch and some pliers to it, there is a metal strip(2 actually) on the back, so i grabbed the end of it with pliers and lifted on the molding a bit and heated the back metal strip at the same time, this melted the glue and it came right off, then i hung it on a wall with a tiny finish nail to keep it straight for the 2 weeks we prepped the car, bought some good 3M door trim adhesive from the supply shop and stuck them back on, the only problem was the heat shrunk the molding length-wise about 3/4" so it was hard to get centered and look right, overall its a good way to make the strip straight, and i used a razorblade to get all the double sided sticky tape off the rest of em

~Mark~
 
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