Mach 460 Sound System questions (one of the amps fried?)

Will2001GT

New Member
Nov 27, 2011
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I've been trying to find out more information on the Mach 460 sound system in my 2001 GT Premium Mustang.

1. How many speakers are there? At first I thought there were 4 "regular" round speakers found in most cars plus 4 tweeters, a set of 2 in the front, and 2 a few feet on the side beside the back seats. But now I've heard someone talking about speakers above the trunk, are there any there?

2. Also, after riding around for a while (and my back seats are still out after replacing the hydraulic top cylinders) and noticed that from both of my amps, only one was hot, but I could hear/feel music coming out of all 4 main speakers and all 4 tweeters right above them. So I'm still wondering if there are more than 4 mid range and 4 tweeters that are visible from being inside the car.

3. Also, what speakers is each amp powering? The driver's side one get's hot so I think it's working, plus when I turn on the car for a second I only hear a very light music sound then you hear the amp cut on powering them more. So I'm wondering if I need to re-place that passenger's side (on the other side of the hydraulic pump anyway) amp. The sound in the car is good, but I sure would like to have even better sound if that amp needs replacing and I have speakers that aren't working, especially if they are subs as I used to have two 10" subs in my old car but I don't want to waste the money on that when this Mach 460 system is close enough and most of what I listen to doesn't need heavy bass anyway, but I want the most I can get out of what is already in place (does the Mach 460 system have individual subs or only integrated mid-sub range round speakers?)

Thanks for any help or any diagrams of the sound system itself. I can't find any information on this in any of my manuals or from searching on this site or google. I thought maybe some of you guys with the Mach 460 systems could shed some light on how many speakers there actually are and which ones each amp is powering too, because I think the passenger's side one is fried (the one working actually has a plastic bag over it I think because there is a leak, but I'm buying a waterproof car cover to try and keep water out (it's a convertible).

Thanks again! Sorry to ask so many questions after first joining. The more I know and learn the more I plan on helping others. After a few days I finally figured out the full workings of the hydraulic top system, replacing the cylinders and bleeding the system so, so far so good :)

-Will
 
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Thanks man that helps a lot. I wonder how to replace the thing, if it's best to try and find the same amp or go for a different brand.

I just wonder why all my speakers seem to be working fine while one of the rear amps (the passenger side one beside the hydraulic top motor) isn't getting hot after a 30 min drive while the other is very hot.

So maybe I'm just missing a little power and it really doesn't matter since one of the rear amps seems to be doing good enough of a job. But I would get a better mid/deep sound in all 4 round speakers if I got it replaced.

"Rear Amps MACH 460 (x2) = Located in the trunk mounted on the sound board. One on each side of the car. The amps provide a mono bass signal to the mid/woofers. These two amps power the front and rear low frequency (Mid/Woofers 5.5"x7.5") speakers. If you own a convertible the amps are located behind the rear seat mounted to the rear wheel hump."
 
So from what I've read it seems that both rear amps power the 4 main round speakers in the car, so since one works (and sounds acceptable really) and the other doesn't, I'm not getting any imbalance of sound, just a little less power to the 4 main speakers.

So if I replaced the 1 rear bad amp I would just get a bit more thump to the 4 main round speakers. Looks like there are used ones on ebay for $50, but I might just wait until the other one blows and replace both at the same time since the amp that is working is 10 years old as it is and I might get a better deal on a set.

But I unplugged each one at a time and the busted one made no difference in sound (obviously, but wanted to make sure), and the one I knew was working took almost all the bass out of the entire system. So the logical thing to do is probably wait and buy the set (new if possible of course, and it seems that any other amps will not work from what I read).

The sound is good enough but I do have a bit of OCD about this sort of thing (at least nothing is out of balance, just less juice to the entire system) plus I used to have 2 10" subs in my car and do miss the bass but don't have the spare $2000 to re-do the entire system. It's really a nice system as it is and the bass is almost just fine. I just know that other amp would satisfy my ear's so much more :(

If anyone knows where to get a cheap new/used 460 rear model for a 01 Mustang Convertible (single or a set) please send me a message :) For now I'll be looking around on ebay :)
 
There is another amp under the radio as well. I could go into detail since I have since removed most of the mach 460 stuff and ran a complete new audio system but just read this site as it has everything you need to know.

http://michaelp.net/Mach460/Mach.html
I've been to this site and many others...I can't get the head unit out, but did bust the face plate off while trying. I have a front pass side speaker sounding distorted / rumbling, tried another speaker, same bad sound. May be one of the amps???
 
Most auto parts stores sell the Ford DIN tool to remove the head unit and cd player, or you can use 4 same size allen wrenches.
Yeah, tried the allen wrenches, wouldn't budge. I may not need to remove it, though, still need to figure out what the trouble is, head or amp, or???connections? I watched the videos I could find, and it looks relativly easy, but mine isn't coop.
 
Get the ford din tool. When you slip them in you have to push both toward the inside to get the tabs to release.

I couldn't get those wiring schematics to download... anyone have those?
 
Yeah, tried the allen wrenches, wouldn't budge. I may not need to remove it, though, still need to figure out what the trouble is, head or amp, or???connections? I watched the videos I could find, and it looks relativly easy, but mine isn't coop.

Hmm, not sure on what tips I could give you. I do remember having to use some degree of force to get it removed but pretty un-eventful for the most part.

When I bought my 96' it has the stock 460 in it that still sounded ok and worked execpt the CD played that would sometimes not play CD's. I like my music hard and heavy and needed a head unit that would allow full IPOD control so I upgraded using 1 4 ch 1000w amp and a single 600w to power a 10" sub which was all installed in the trunk and ran using new wiring throughout.