Made a custom console and sub enclosure

68converted

Member
Nov 19, 2003
772
0
16
Colorado
I promised I would post some picks of the console when I got it layed up. The initial pics I took were all blury so I don't have any prior to this point. I need to glass the underside and the cutouts for the drink holders and I should be able to smooth things out with bondo and get it painted. I also need to add a power top and fog light switches, then the gauges and I plan to add vents for the heater near the front. I grabbed a couple of vents at the pick and pull.

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f210/68converted/Console.jpg

And here is the start of the spare tire sub enclosure. I am using a 17" rim and tire for the spare. I layed plastic inside my Boyd's (scarry) and then the fleece. I soaked that with resin, dropped in the base board. layed in fiberglass (two layers). I was able to pull it out of the rim in a hour and will glass in the top half tonight.

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f210/68converted/insidesub.jpg
 
Thanks guys, I was not able to do anything with the projects today but hope to glass in the sub box tonight. For the console- I used 1/2" particle board for the armrest and used used stucco screen to shape it. I used the fleece as a base for the fiberglass matt. Once the fiberglass was layed up I used cup wedges for the gauge placement and then glassed over them. I cut in some plastic tube stock for the cup holders I purchased from the marine shop and glassed over that.

I test fit the console tonight over the carpet and it is a perfect fit under the dash and will bolt up nicely. I have been searching the internet to find out how much sub box volume is needed for the sub I want to use. But, back to the poison of my life "American Idol" sad, very sad, but funny.
 
I was able to sand down the console a little yesterday. Some progress but other things to work on before I get too far into it.

I am really not into the monster sound thing, (almost 40 now), but, from the research that I have done, the subs that work in the lowest frequency range will work best for the convertible. I don't want to rattle my newly put together car into pieces. So I will go with one 10" Alpine type X sub and call it good. I plan to mount the amps to the side of the sub, and not in the floor.
 
I have been struggling with stereo options since I bought my vert. The sub is what I go back and forth with. Cruising around town, isn't a problem but the wind noise at highway speeds is what I'd like to cut through.


David
 
66moneypit said:
I have been struggling with stereo options since I bought my vert. The sub is what I go back and forth with. Cruising around town, isn't a problem but the wind noise at highway speeds is what I'd like to cut through.


David

This very same issue is what I was doing research on. After reading a ton of technical articles, the low frequency subs are the way to go. Think of the drone of a muffer, it cuts through almost all noise. I am doing six speakers inside, two 5 1/2's in the kick panels, two 6's in the rear window quarter, and two small tweeters under the dash. We will see... I have also heard of putting speakers behind the rear seat, just to either side of the top pump. I tried 6x9's but they did not fit. I am going to try some 5x8 low profiles. I think it might work???
 
HA! I am not going to have ANY trouble with my subs: going to run two 16Ov.2 from Elemental Design. They will be nestled within the rollbars [each seat has it's own rollbar] and about 12" behind the two seats! A very nice advantage to not having a back seat to worry about. Convertibles don't get any of the bass reinforcement usually seen in cars, so you need a LOT more cone and power to drive it. These will be run in parallel...and the eD 9.1 amp pushes >1200w into a 1 ohm load.

Probably going to go with front kick panel pods and see what kind of soundstage I can get out of it.

It's funny...I've been playing around with car stereos since the 70's...and this will be my first excursion into fiberglass. Got to do the console...and we still haven't figured out what to do with the dash. The stock dashpad and supporting hardware is gone, and the openings for the stock radio and defrost has been filled. Don't plan to drive the 'vert on a day I need defrost! In fact, I had planned to put A/C in, but am really rethinking that. Besides, if I'm going to stuff a turbo under the hood [instead of the KB blower] I need all of the space I can get!
 
mtbdoc said:
... don't plan to drive the 'vert on a day I need defrost! In fact, I had planned to put A/C in, but am really rethinking that. Besides, if I'm going to stuff a turbo under the hood [instead of the KB blower] I need all of the space I can get!

I think with a bunch of sound deadener and the system I have decided to go with, it should work well. This is no trailer queen, and I want to drive the heck out. Fun factor is high.
 
I've got a cheap ass walmart system in my 66. I have 2 6"s in the kick panels, 2 6x9s behind the back seat, a 400 Watt amp powering the 6x9s and powering a 10" dual brand sub in the trunk. Sounds better than stock systems in modern cars. And I've spent less than 500 on the whole thing.
 
66StangFastback said:
I've got a cheap ass walmart system in my 66. I have 2 6"s in the kick panels, 2 6x9s behind the back seat, a 400 Watt amp powering the 6x9s and powering a 10" dual brand sub in the trunk. Sounds better than stock systems in modern cars. And I've spent less than 500 on the whole thing.

Had a similar system in the F-250, but when I switched to the Alpine head unit and Type-R speakers, it was a major step up.