MAF Mystery!!!

Have you hooked a computer up to it yet? The MAF housings don't go bad, but the MAF sensors do. If your sensor was bad, you would be pulling a code or your check engine light would come on when you disconnected it while it was running.

If you do get the C&L 76mm, make sure you get the sampling tube for whatever pound injectors you are running. Stock injectors are (yellow) 19lbs.

Tim

ACstang5.0 said:

I noticed my car was bogging out at high RPMs and had no power, so i replaced my MAF with a replacement from autozone. It worked great for 4 days then my car just died in the middle of the road. I know its the MAF because when i unplug it it runs fine.
I was told to get a CL MAF (76mm), but im not too sure. my mods are in my sig so please let me know what you think. thanks!!!

also, the pictures of the CL MAF dont show the black chip on top, does it not come with everything?

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Vacuum leaks will do that too...My escort did that ran fine with the maf unplugged then died as soon as you plugged it in. Turned out one of the bigger vacuum lines had a split in it. Replaced it and ran like a champ.

Going with the vac idea, a stockish motor should pull 15-20" hg at warm idle.

Good luck

never seen an escort that ran like a champ

C&L is junk. All they are is a housing that REUSES the stock MAF electronics, and "fools" it. If you are going to upgrade, go Pro-m (now Professional Mass Air Systems, www.massairsystems.com)

Try to find a used one if you can because the wait on meters from the "new" company is very unpredictable. I got mine a little over a month after I ordered it.

BlackFox5.0 said:

C&L is junk.

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I never had any problems with mine... If you are basing that off of personal experience, great. It seems to be about 50/50 with C&L, I guess I fell into the 50% that didn't have any problems. For blown applications, I wouldn't use C&L either.

Tim

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.