MAF size
- Thread starter ghetto5oh
- Start date
Stanger007
Founding Member
Nope, not worth the hassle, you're well within the limits of your stock sensor.
I do need to see pics of a Gucci interior though.
Wes
I do need to see pics of a Gucci interior though.
Wes
Stanger007
Founding Member
Go to "Advanced" mode and there's a way to upload pics on that screen.
EDIT: "Manage Attachments" button towards the bottom.
EDIT: "Manage Attachments" button towards the bottom.
Dino Dino Bambino
15 Year Member
Yes. The stock MAF is a major restriction in the intake system so upgrading to a 76mm or bigger MAF will definitely improve the throttle response.
Stanger007
Founding Member
Dino Dino Bambino
15 Year Member
Nothing wrong with a 75mm but does anyone still make them? I heard that ProM has gone belly up.
Stanger007, my own butt dyno told me that my C&L 76mm MAF improved throttle response but it also included the CAI. I'm very happy with it and it'll help even more when I add more mods (long tubes, X-pipe, H/C/I etc.) later on.
Stanger007, my own butt dyno told me that my C&L 76mm MAF improved throttle response but it also included the CAI. I'm very happy with it and it'll help even more when I add more mods (long tubes, X-pipe, H/C/I etc.) later on.
blksn955.o
Founding Member
Proof = people getting 300rwhp or damn close with the stock MAF and T-body. would more of either gain any? probably but that is proof of what the stock stuff can do.
the major restriction is the stock lower intake and t-body (like said).
The stock meter is a 70mm unit that your not going to peg with your mods. The only thing you will probably gain is drivabiliy issues/need of a tune.
the major restriction is the stock lower intake and t-body (like said).
The stock meter is a 70mm unit that your not going to peg with your mods. The only thing you will probably gain is drivabiliy issues/need of a tune.
Dino Dino Bambino
15 Year Member
The stock intake and TB, like the MAF, are indeed major restrictions. So far I've addressed 2 out of the 3.
The stock MAF is actually 73mm but it has a thick bar running down the middle that obstructs airflow. You could cut the bar away and improve airflow bigtime. I don't have any driveability issues with my 76mm MAF and the engine doesn't need a tune (not yet anyway).
95 GT- deep forest green- shorty headers, o/r x-pipe, flows, cai, u/d pulleys, 3.73s, king cobra clutch, adjustable clutch cable w/quadrant, ford racing wires,street heat upper and lower intake w/spacer, gucci interior
If that is the combo we're talking about
I'd not do either as not enough air is being moved at this time
to warrant a change IMHO
Grady
If that is the combo we're talking about
I'd not do either as not enough air is being moved at this time
to warrant a change IMHO
Grady
95 GT- deep forest green- shorty headers, o/r x-pipe, flows, cai, u/d pulleys, 3.73s, king cobra clutch, adjustable clutch cable w/quadrant, ford racing wires,street heat upper and lower intake w/spacer, gucci interior
If that is the combo we're talking about
I'd not do either as not enough air is being moved at this time
to warrant a change IMHO
Grady
I have to agree...
The throttle body isn't a restriction, I would like to change that out when you get a nice h/c/i or stroker combo...
blksn955.o
Founding Member
The stock 94-95 maf is a 70mm unit. The next size bigger is a 73mm C&L unit.
I am not saying the C&L is a bad maf, just that it is not my first (or even second) choice for a maf on a 94-95 load based car as it sques that load reading more so than the "other" foolery type maf (I know from first hand exp. with a C&L maf). It is not 100% that you will have an issue but it is more common to see an issue v. the fox guys.
I would not recomend cutting the back post out either. You are again gettting into greater chances to have issues such as low rpm bucking and or poor idle/stall issues. several have had this issue on here. Really the only way to get "more" out of hte stocker is to have a tuner or some kind of maf extender that you can hose with the reading...even then its a small amount and band aid as the maf is just too small. Since the stock meter will get you to a point and trying to get more out of it at that point (around 300rwrhp) you just need to get a bigger maf. The poster is simply not at that point.
The stock T-body is able to make around 300wrhp as well...the stock intake however will NOT. Most of the issue is the lower as the upper flowes around 190cfm. Getting that restriction taken care of with a stock lower port job will be the most cost effective and power gain out of changing the MAF/t-body. The poster already has an aftermarket intake so I would say...save for some heads/cam or a poweradder.
I am not saying the C&L is a bad maf, just that it is not my first (or even second) choice for a maf on a 94-95 load based car as it sques that load reading more so than the "other" foolery type maf (I know from first hand exp. with a C&L maf). It is not 100% that you will have an issue but it is more common to see an issue v. the fox guys.
I would not recomend cutting the back post out either. You are again gettting into greater chances to have issues such as low rpm bucking and or poor idle/stall issues. several have had this issue on here. Really the only way to get "more" out of hte stocker is to have a tuner or some kind of maf extender that you can hose with the reading...even then its a small amount and band aid as the maf is just too small. Since the stock meter will get you to a point and trying to get more out of it at that point (around 300rwrhp) you just need to get a bigger maf. The poster is simply not at that point.
The stock T-body is able to make around 300wrhp as well...the stock intake however will NOT. Most of the issue is the lower as the upper flowes around 190cfm. Getting that restriction taken care of with a stock lower port job will be the most cost effective and power gain out of changing the MAF/t-body. The poster already has an aftermarket intake so I would say...save for some heads/cam or a poweradder.
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