main bearing bolts, cam bolts ??

[screamin gt]

anywhere to find main bearing bolts besides going straight to a dealer? haven't found them online....

also do camshaft bolts need to be replaced as well or are they re-usable?

 

[RandyStinchcomb]

other than APR which are $$$, you'll have to-go thru a Ford dealer and the crank/cam bolts are also TTY, so you'll need them too

 

[screamin gt]

other than APR which are $$$, you'll have to-go thru a Ford dealer and the crank/cam bolts are also TTY, so you'll need them too

couldn't find arp's for the main bearing bolts. summits got the cam bolts for 27 per set (x2)

 

[RandyStinchcomb]

couldn't find arp's for the main bearing bolts. summits got the cam bolts for 27 per set (x2)

well thats just crazy, there only @$5.00 each from Ford

 

[screamin gt]

well thats just crazy, there only @$5.00 each from Ford

?!?!?!?!


I just got off the phone with ford and they said $101 for all 26 bolts

or did you think I meant $27 for each set of 2(bolts per cap) I meant $27 for each cam set, so like $50 for all of them.


However the guy said that they aren't tty so I can re-use the cam bolts. he aid just the main bearing cap bolts are tty (and the head bolts(obviously)

$95 for the set for the main cap bolts.

 

[RandyStinchcomb]

cam and crank bolts ARE TTY, someone is giving you bad info.

what year block is this and is it aluminum or iron?

 

[screamin gt]

the guy I talked to doesn't seem to know ****, its just what he was reading off the computer. the haynes book has no notes either way on the cam bolts. it only mentions that the head bolts and main cap bolts need replacement, and it says the side bolts for the main caps are re-usable.

when I told the guy this he says, "OK.... are you going to trust the guy who wrote the book? or the guy who built the car?"

well I'd trust the guys on :SNSign: before either one!!

 

[screamin gt]

oh, the block is from a 99

 

[RandyStinchcomb]

oh, the block is from a 99

ok, aluminum or iron block?

 

[chuck943]

camshaft bolts are not tty so u do not need to replace them,torque to 89 lb-in
shop manual says to replace connecting rod bolts and main bearing cap bolts

 

[RandyStinchcomb]

camshaft bolts are not tty so u do not need to replace them,torque to 89 lb-in
shop manual says to replace connecting rod bolts and main bearing cap bolts

WRONG/BAD INFO, Cam and Crank bolts ARE TTY

better get a new/different shop manual because rod bolts can be used up to 3 times.

head bolts, cam/crank bolts and main bolts/studs are TTY, use them once and toss 'em

 

[screamin gt]

yup haynes says rod bolts are re-usable too.

randy, the block is cast iron

 

[RandyStinchcomb]

yup haynes says rod bolts are re-usable too.

randy, the block is cast iron

ok, for a 1999 Windsor iron block, you'll need:
X's 9 F6AZ-6345-AA main bolts = $3.09 each wholesale
X's 1 F6AZ-6345-BA stud (oil pick up tube) = $5.64
X's 10 F65Z-6345-AA side load bolts = $2.01 each and can be reused but for the price($20.10) and piece of mind, I'd replace them too
Crank, Non- PI Cams and aftermarket Cams use the 12mm bolt, part # F5RZ-6A340-B $4.61
"factory" Romeo PI Cams use the smaller 10mm bolt, part # YF7Z-6279-AA and are $2.78 each


if you need help getting these parts, lmk as we keep it in stock. also the price quoted above are wholesale and your dealer might be @25% to 30% more

 

[screamin gt]

ok, for a 1999 Windsor iron block, you'll need:
X's 9 F6AZ-6345-AA main bolts = $3.09 each wholesale
X's 1 F6AZ-6345-BA stud (oil pick up tube) = $5.64


the price quoted above are wholesale and your dealer might be @25% to 30% more

yup they got me for $60 just for those right there....

for the heads I didn't get romeo's... I just had the stock 99 windsor heads re-done/ valve job instead.. stock cams..

 

[chuck943]

WRONG/BAD INFO, Cam and Crank bolts ARE TTY

better get a new/different shop manual because rod bolts can be used up to 3 times.

head bolts, cam/crank bolts and main bolts/studs are TTY, use them once and toss 'em

Just reading it to you straight out of Ford shop manual.

Remove the connecting rod cap, lower and upper connecting rod bearing. Keep cap and connecting rod bearings together. Use care to prevent damage to the bearing and cylinder bore surfaces.

CAUTION: Care should be taken not to damage the cracked rod and cap joint face surfaces. Engine damage may occur.

Connecting rod bolts (6214) are retained in the bolt hole with a light press fit. The connecting rod bolts have been torqued to yield at least twice and must be discarded. Use a hammer and punch to drive connecting rod bolts from connecting rod cap.

camshaft removal and installation:

Remove 14 bolts retaining camshaft bearing caps (6B280) to cylinder head
Tap upward on camshaft bearing caps at position shown and gradually lift camshaft bearing caps from cylinder head.

Remove camshaft straight upward to avoid bearing damage
Installation

Clean and inspect valve cover, engine front cover and cylinder head sealing surfaces.

NOTE: Steps 2 through 11 will install only one camshaft. If both camshafts are being serviced, repeat Steps 2 through 11 to install the other camshaft.



Position camshafts on cylinder head. Apply oil to journals and lobes of camshaft.

Install and seat camshaft bearing caps. Hand-start 14 bolts.

NOTE: Each camshaft bearing cap is tightened individually.


Tighten camshaft bearing cap retaining bolts in sequence to 8-12 Nm (71-106 lb-in).



No where in camshaft installation does it say to discard camshaft bolts.
I was under the same impression as you about them being tty.

 

[TweekedGT]

Just get ARP main studs, they are not torque to yield. The #4 main is a pain in the ass though. That is where the oil pickup attaches. You need a 12mmx12Point Deep socket to torque it down to spec. Try finding one of those in a hurry, it's next to impossible (at least here).

 

[RandyStinchcomb]

Chuck the Ford shop manual is so screwed-up, I wouldn't believe half of whats printed in in, remember the info in it is the same info supplied by the engineers that built/designed these so-called "modular" engine in the first place.

I know atleast 1 Ford shop foreman (Dennis Love) who has correct the Ford shop manuals many, many times as those "wiz-kids" in Dearborn have NO real world experience in whats-what.

now the Non-Pi Modular Cam and Crank bolt(s) part # (F5RZ-6A340-B) is the same part # and the Crank bolt is TTY, so that right there should tell you the Cam bolts are also TTY, right?

now the PI cams use a smaller 10mm cam sprocket bolt and thats also TTY, so don't relie 100% on the Ford manual to be 100% right all the time

 

[chuck943]

Well to answer screamin's original question. You have conflicting info from shop manuals, I would think that the Ford manual should be acurate because who should know better than the guy who designed it. But as Randy pointed out they ain't always right either! So what should you do?
Well I for one would be one sick puppy if I tried to save $50 and then one of those bolts broke and destroyed my engine. So I would advise you to do what I always do when ever I have a decision like this to make. I go ask an old friend of mine. Some of you guys may know him,he was pretty famous back in the day. He use to do comercials for Fram. When I ask him what to do he always says "You can pay me now or you can pay me later!"

 

[screamin gt]

Fine! I'll replace all the dam bolts!

:SNSign: