Fox Main Studs

[RangerJoe]

I'm hoping to get my HCI swap off the ground after the new year. When I built my motor three years ago, I put main studs on the bottom end. This was my first motor build and I researched the crap out of it before doing it. However, I made one mistake (that I know of). I added the main studs after the block left the machine shop, meaning that the mains were not checked or honed with the studs. I've read both ways on this, some say the studs pull the mains out of round, others say they have gotten away with it without problems. Its been three years and about 8500 HARD miles. No problems as of yet. I cut open my last oil filter today with nothing bad inside.

Taking this into consideration, I am thinking about pulling my motor when I do the HCI and checking the status of the main bearings. If all looks good, I will keep running it this way. My question is this:

Can I pull the main caps and put them back on without removing the rods and pistons from the block? I know I had to set the thrust bearing clearance when I installed the crank the first go around. Is this feasible with the rods still installed?

Thanks for any advice.

Joe

 

[HotFox]

No problem. Will be a lot easier if it is in a engine stand, as any work is on the engine. But regardless mains can be accessed without the removal of any rods.

Scott

 

[Grabbin' Asphalt]

Interesting situation, hmmmmm. I would think after close to 10,000 miles, hard ones etc, ....signs of bad things would already be evident in the oil, filter and so on. Maybe a systematic check every 1,500 miles if things are good.

 

[A5literMan]

^^^what they said

 

[85rkyboby]

I seem to remember reading something about only doing one main bearing at a time, might have been rod bearing, so you don't get any shaft play. Is this correct?

 

[84Ttop]

I say rock and roll with it. If you haven't had a problem yet then chances are good there isn't a problem there. Don't fix what isn't broken...

 

[RangerJoe]

Thanks guys. I'll have to find my build sheet I made. I recorded all my clearances as I put the motor together. I may just check my tightest clearance and take a peek.

Hope yall have a Merry Christmas!

Joe

 

[84Ttop]

Same to you Joe,

Happy Holidays!!

 

[revhead347]

I say rock and roll with it. If you haven't had a problem yet then chances are good there isn't a problem there. Don't fix what isn't broken...

+1. I decided to put a girdle on after I got the engine back from the engine shop which meant going to ARP bolts instead of stock ones. I checked the clearances and the resistance on the crankshaft before and after, and it made absolutely no difference.

Kurt

 

[mikestang63]

+1. I decided to put a girdle on after I got the engine back from the engine shop which meant going to ARP bolts instead of stock ones. I checked the clearances and the resistance on the crankshaft before and after, and it made absolutely no difference.

Kurt

heh..girdle... I remember years ago when I was contemplating using one, Mark Oneal saying that a girdle is only there to hold all the parts when the bottom end lets go.

 

[revhead347]

The girdle is probably over rated. I don't know how much of a difference it honestly makes. I really wish I had tracked down a 4 bolt main block this last time.

Kurt

 

[84Ttop]

The girdle is probably over rated. I don't know how much of a difference it honestly makes. I really wish I had tracked down a 4 bolt main block this last time.

Kurt

Shame you're in GA, I know a guy (me) willing to part with a fully machined R block (four bolt) for a reasonable price...

 

[A5literMan]

Shame you're in GA, I know a guy (me) willing to part with a fully machined R block (four bolt) for a reasonable price...

Ohhhh reeeaalllllyy...?!

 

[Grabbin' Asphalt]

Shame you're in GA, I know a guy (me) willing to part with a fully machined R block (four bolt) for a reasonable price...

I'll say it, how much??

 

[revhead347]

Shame you're in GA, I know a guy (me) willing to part with a fully machined R block (four bolt) for a reasonable price...

I built the engine a few years ago. It's all done now, so no point in taking it apart until it breaks. At the time I found a few used R and Man O War blocks on the classifieds for around $1000. I regret not going for it at the time, but it would be counter productive to swap blocks now.

Kurt

 

[84Ttop]

I'll say it, how much??

PM me for details, fully machined and ready to assemble for less than revhead has mentioned, I just don't want to ship this thing lol