Make my '67 Coupe Handle

[Riggs]

I would like to improve the handling of my '67 Coupe 289. Are installing front and sway bars difficult? Will the rear sway bar require welding? I would also like to lower the front and get some 1 1/2 Leafs to raise the back. Does anyone know where the best place and most affordable place to get suspension upgrades?

 

[LMan]

*sigh*

 

[Red5oh]

You can check out my cardomain site... one of the last pages has the rear sway bar install on it. It was very easy to install and required no welding.

 

[geostang351]

Lman, Just help the guy out. That will just discourage him from participating here

 

[68rustang]

I would also like to lower the front and get some 1 1/2 Leafs to raise the back.

Lowering the front and raising the rear is not a good way to make your car handle any better.

 

[bnickel]

1" swaybar front, either no rear sway bar or a 3/4" rear bar, depending on personal preference. no rear bar will make the car looser, 3/4" will make it tighter.

i wouldn't raise the rear if you're looking to make the car handle, raising the car in the rear will change the dynamics of the car in so many ways that aren't conducive to handling you won't believe it. your springs are probably sagging so just get new standard eye 4-1/2 leafs for the back and 620 1" drop springs for the front

 

[ttoney]

Well, plety of old cars have sagging springs. Replace yours with stiffer rear springs will probably raise it as well as improve handling immensely. I have the 5 leaf rears, combined with the 620 lb fronts, Sways front and back, Shelby drop and camber wedge. The car handles waaaaaaay better than 40 year old stock suspension and is not too terribly expensive or difficult to do the work yourself.

 

[2nd Mustang]

1" swaybar front, either no rear sway bar or a 3/4" rear bar, depending on personal preference. no rear bar will make the car looser, 3/4" will make it tighter.

i wouldn't raise the rear if you're looking to make the car handle, raising the car in the rear will change the dynamics of the car in so many ways that aren't conducive to handling you won't believe it. your springs are probably sagging so just get new standard eye 4-1/2 leafs for the back and 620 1" drop springs for the front

I have the setup mentioned above on my 67 coupe, 4 speed toploader, 245/50 x 15 tires and Koni shocks. The car handles great in corners and over bumps. I don't know if you have a stick or automatic trans, but a stick will always handle better in corners IMHO.

 

[BigDaddyCee]

Here is what I have done to my 65 coupe, changed to 5 leaf rear springs and added a 1" front sway bar. Did the Granada Front Disc brake swap. Redid all front end steering linkage. Also added under-rider traction bars. Here are all the parts I have but haven't installed yet, just finished making my own subframe connectors (weld-in style). I just purchased a rear 3/4 " sway bar and GT performance coil springs 620lb with the 1" drop. I did notice that adding the new 5leaf rear leafs did support the rear end very well and levelled things out nicely. I am hoping that when I put the new coils up front that it will just give me a slight cant/rake from front to back (not too high in the back). Just say no to motorboats and lawn mowers! When I do add my rear sway bar I think that I will weld a small patch of Angle Iron to my frame rails just for added support. I noticed a big cornering improvement and so did the wife when I added an old sway bar to my 2.3 litre fox body daily driver. That is why I want to add one to my coupe. Almost forgot awhile ago I added a monte carlo bar and an export brace. This really firmed up the front end in the corners. The shock towers in Mustangs tend to flex this is not condusive to good handling. I also believe in a solid foundation for your vehicle from the ground up. HTH.

 

[Edbert]

Drop the idea of a rear sway bar, these cars push (understter) like crazy already, putting a rear sway on will only make it worse.

My advice to you is that before you add power or handling you should upgrade the brakes. You don't want more speed without more stop.

 

[Riggs]

I want the rear to sit a tad bit higher than the front. See what happened was 2 years ago i replaced my rear leafs with stock ones but the car "sits back" too much. I want it to be level or a tad bit higher so I figured if I lower the front and raise the rear an inch it would look alright.

 

[bnickel]

I want the rear to sit a tad bit higher than the front. See what happened was 2 years ago i replaced my rear leafs with stock ones but the car "sits back" too much. I want it to be level or a tad bit higher so I figured if I lower the front and raise the rear an inch it would look alright.

if you are going to buy lowering springs for the front, i'd suggest driving the car for at least a 1,000 miles before you cut them, if indeed you need to cut them at all, because they tend to "sag" some or settle a bit. i'd also recommend the same before deciding on the rear ride height as well as i said the front coils tend to to settle a bit after installation. so let the coils settle a while before cutting them or changing the rear at all.

 

[bnickel]

Drop the idea of a rear sway bar, these cars push (understter) like crazy already, putting a rear sway on will only make it worse.

My advice to you is that before you add power or handling you should upgrade the brakes. You don't want more speed without more stop.

Edbert, did you know that most of the 69-70 ta cars ran rear sway bars? some cars/drivers don't need a rear bar but some do. off hand i'd say the 65-66 cars probably don't need a rear bar but the 69/70 do, the 67/68 cars could probably go either way.

 

[Edbert]

But that was on the race cars only right?

 

[bnickel]

But that was on the race cars only right?

well, actually the 69/70 boss 302's came from the fatory aith a rear bar as well. i think the boss 9 had one as well and it was optional on others

 

[65 fastback]

For a quick budget suspension upgrade, here's where I would start, in order:
- Install a Monty Carlo Bar and an Export Brace
- Do the "Shelby" drop with your stock UCA
- Install some stiffer, 1" drop front springs when doing the "Shelby" mod
- New shocks (Edelbrock's if you got the $, KYB's if your on a budget)
- Install a front sway bar

If you just replaced the rear springs, I would leave them until you have completed the above and see how she sits. You can make minor height adjustments with lowering blocks. Go ahead and replace your shocks though. I would definately spring for Edelbrock's on the rear (KYB's are way to stiff on the rear of these cars).

Once you've gotten to this point here are some more items to consider.
- Subframe braces
- Roller spring perches
- Adustable strut rods (TCP, Global West, or Street or Track)
- Roller bearing lower control arms (TCP, Global West, or OpenTracker)

Just some ideas. Good luck.

Tim

 

[RGS0907]

The Rear Bar reduces Understeer

Drop the idea of a rear sway bar, these cars push (understter) like crazy already, putting a rear sway on will only make it worse.

Actually an oversteering tendency will be reduced by locating the anti-roll bar at the front where it will reduce the cornering force and adhesion of the front tires. If the vehicle understeers, the anti-roll bar should be located at the rear.

 

[LMan]

Lman, Just help the guy out. That will just discourage him from participating here

It's never stopped anyone before.



'sides, y'all came through with all the good tech. I just have to editorialize once in awhile or y'all will think I'm getting soft.

 

[302 coupe]

hey Lman, can you tell me what is involved in a 6 to 8 swap? What about disc brakes? T5 swap? R&P? What's the widest wheels I can fit? I'm a newb and I'm sorely afraid of using the search feature, please help me.

 

[geostang351]

hey Lman, can you tell me what is involved in a 6 to 8 swap? What about disc brakes? T5 swap? R&P? What's the widest wheels I can fit? I'm a newb and I'm sorely afraid of using the search feature, please help me.

Oh, funny