Making first track pass tomorrow...

if you're on street tires go around the water, also try and get behind a slicked out monster, they'll leave a nice patch of rubber for you, just try to line up where they did, generally people say to set the fronts at or a little above max, i dropped the rears to 30psi, some people drop less, but i cut a 2.0 so i'm happy with that, they're "remington" street tires @40 psi usually

I run street tires, and ive gone around the water, and gone through the water, doing a short burnout to clean off the dirt and **** off the tires, or get the water off. I didnt notice a difference so i just go through the water now cuz its a hassle to go around it. I drop my tires to like 16 lbs, but they are absolute crap and dont grab unless i do. I usually just blip the throttle as the tree goes down and and let it fly when the last amber is up or goes out, youll get that part down. Good luck. Have fun, its addicting.

What track are you going to?

Hey Kenny, what track are you going to, Lebanon Valley or New England Dragway?

I'm planning on going to NED tomorrow night, so if you're there keep a look out for a black '94 GT with '96 tails and a porno red interior.

To keep this tech, I've heard that inflating your front tires to 38psi (as long as it's less than the tire's max rated pressure) is good for removing some of the front ends rolling resistance.

I may even bump my timing to 12-14*. My goal is to make it into the 14's with a basically stock '94. I think I can do it if I can learn to launch good (only been to the track twice before). Another note about NED, with street tires, I have found that it is easier to spin them at the track than it is on the street.

Here's how I run:

I keep the hood up and the engine off between rounds to keep a consistent engine temp, it really helps (Unless it's freezing, in which case I keep the hood down and the engine running).

With street tires, I go around the water and do a light burn out to get the tires heated up (yes, it does help some).

I launch just below torque peak (RPM) regardless of gearing, riding the clutch out without any tire spins. I've done this with a stock '95 GT w/3.08s and 245 tires (running considerably faster than the sig says, but I'm waiting to unveil that until later), a stock '66 2-Barrel 289 w/2.80 one legger and incredibly crappy 205 tires, a '66 GT coupe 4-Barrel 289 w/3.25 limited slip and 205 BFGs and an '87 with a 347 & 3.55 limited slip with 275s. All performed the best this way.

With a stock 5.0 and light mods...shift just below or at 5600, but be careful going higher as you could turn your valve springs to jell-o doing that too many times.

With 3.90s and a stock 5.0, trap in 4th gear. (Trap in third in stock 5.0s w/3.08s).

As far as tire pressure, I just run what gives me the greatest contact patch, which will very from car to car due to weight and tire construction. A general rule of thumb for a 5.0 is about 30 psi front and rear. To check it, do a burn out before you get to the track and read the contact patch. I don't even bother over inflating the front tires, my times are plenty fast without it.

Unless you have the clutch pedal adjusted to do so, don't go all the way to the floor on a shift, just go far enough to release the clutch and allow a smooth, clean shift.

Also, when you stage, stage the same way every time. I prefer a shallow stage (just tripping the second beam with my tires) as that is the easiest and most reliable way to do it without a spotter.

To time launches, I prefer to start leaving when I see green, then seeing how long it takes my ride to leave the line by reading the slip and adjusting my launch later...however, you will most likely be able to get away with leaving on the last amber (to test and be more competitve while doing so) as I seriously doubt your car will come off the line quicker than a half second.

It is going to be outrageously hot tomorrow night so I will not be there.

When im at the track it is easier for me to leave in 2nd cause i dont spin and save the time of a shift but i have 4:10 in my car. I might be at the track in bowling green saturday night after my car gets its dyno.

blake89stang said:

When im at the track it is easier for me to leave in 2nd cause i dont spin and save the time of a shift but i have 4:10 in my car. I might be at the track in bowling green saturday night after my car gets its dyno.

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If you have any power in that motor your clutch isn't gonna last long doing that....it's a LOT more force on the clutch than if you leave it in 1st.

as long as they cant rock your battery back and forth, or up and down, you should be fine. and usually (at least ours does) at red river raceway in LA, they have thier own shoe polish. they use thier own different colors for different classes and so on, and they give you the number that they want you to have normally. i didnt see it up there, but have you disconnected your front sway bar yet? if not, that could help a little, just dont drive home thinkin you can do 70mph around a corner, as disconnecting your sway bar helps on launches, and kills you in corners

NED is the only track I've been to.

I only have the factory battery hold down that clamps the base of the battery. All they do is try to shake the battery with their hand and if it doesn't move, you pass.

The basic things that they're gonna check are your seatbelts (make sure they're functional) the clutch safety switch (make sure you can't start it w/o the clutch pedal down), tires, lugnuts (if you have covers on your wheels, take them off 'cause they'll ask you to anyway).

When you first get there, get behind some cars in the tech lines, then go up to the credentials booth to get your wristband and car form. Then fill out what you can on the form. Then when a tech guy gets to you, give him the form and they'll tell you what they need from you.

Bring a helmet if you want, but they're only manditory if you run 13.99 or quicker.

Here's a link to NED's Street Night Rules

Hope to see you there!

-Matt

maverick0716 said:

If you have any power in that motor your clutch isn't gonna last long doing that....it's a LOT more force on the clutch than if you leave it in 1st.

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I don't feel like looking up the transmission ratios and doing the math, but it probably isn't any worse than launching in 1st gear with stock gears. But why get 4.10's and launch in 2nd? Get some traction and let it rip in 1st!

KM you'll break 14s easy, we have similiar mods but instead I have bfg drag radials but I'm sure you'll get at least mid 14s. Good luck man

Don't lower your tire pressure. Doing so will cause the inside of the tread to cave up, giving you less traction. I learned this from a guy that runs 12's on a bone stock motor up there.

KM 94 GT said:

At NED how anal are they about tires? On the inside part of my front tires they are at the wear bars, but from the outside the tires look like they have plenty of tread. Do they get in there and inspect them or do they just glance at them quickly?

Thanks,
Kenny

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From what I've seen, it's pretty much a glance. As long as you're not missing a lug nut or have a torn sidewall, I don't think they will look hard as long as you don't give them reason.

-Matt

yeah about that missing lugnut......you get one yet?