so i installed a new cam in the car and the vacuum is **** so i pretty much have no breaks...so i was wondering how good are manual breaks on a 4 lug stang and who makes a good conversion?
Brakes... not breaks.
so i installed a new cam in the car and the vacuum is **** so i pretty much have no breaks...so i was wondering how good are manual breaks on a 4 lug stang and who makes a good conversion?
Manual brakes can be as good as power brakes depending on how much trouble you want to go through to get them right.
#1. A new master cylinder w/ a 1" piston bore.
#2. Brake pressure proportioning valve
#3. 10lb residual valve if you have or are going to keep the drum rears.
#4. A firewall mount plate (preferably one that raises the M/C)
The most important part is the brake pedal ratio that you currently have.
Left unchanged, you will have to push your balls off to get it to stop. Changing it involves removing the pedal, and changing where the hole that intersects w/ the M/C pushrod is.
The ideal manual brake pedal ratio is 6:1. The current PB ratio is barely 3:1.
Changing it is also what makes the pedal "competetive" in effort and feel w/ PBs.
I've done all of this stuff to my car. Changing the intersect point requires some compromise. Some of your stock stuff gets in the way once you change the ratio. (i.e. the brakelight switch bumper, and the pull off circuit that runs to your cruise control) For me, that was an acceptable trade off, I just got an inline pressure activated brakelight switch and re-ran the wires out to that switch, and the CC was going anyway.
max motorsports has a good manual brake kit. It's pricey though, ABout $200 i think. Add in the required MC (call them to discuss which one) and you are looking at $300+
How low is your vac? Do you have gauge readings? You might be able to fix your issue with a vacuum reserve canister, or a supplimental vac pump. Might be cheaper
Manual brakes can be as good as power brakes depending on how much trouble you want to go through to get them right.
#1. A new master cylinder w/ a 1" piston bore.
#2. Brake pressure proportioning valve
#3. 10lb residual valve if you have or are going to keep the drum rears.
#4. A firewall mount plate (preferably one that raises the M/C)
The most important part is the brake pedal ratio that you currently have.
Left unchanged, you will have to push your balls off to get it to stop. Changing it involves removing the pedal, and changing where the hole that intersects w/ the M/C pushrod is.
The ideal manual brake pedal ratio is 6:1. The current PB ratio is barely 3:1.
Changing it is also what makes the pedal "competetive" in effort and feel w/ PBs.
I've done all of this stuff to my car. Changing the intersect point requires some compromise. Some of your stock stuff gets in the way once you change the ratio. (i.e. the brakelight switch bumper, and the pull off circuit that runs to your cruise control) For me, that was an acceptable trade off, I just got an inline pressure activated brakelight switch and re-ran the wires out to that switch, and the CC was going anyway.
max motorsports has a good manual brake kit. It's pricey though, ABout $200 i think. Add in the required MC (call them to discuss which one) and you are looking at $300+
How low is your vac? Do you have gauge readings? You might be able to fix your issue with a vacuum reserve canister, or a supplimental vac pump. Might be cheaper
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