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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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Mass air to Speed Density?

  • Thread starter Thread starter JenkinsBS
  • Start date Start date Aug 1, 2010
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Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,251
17,936
224
Massachusetts
Aug 17, 2010
#21
  • Aug 17, 2010
  • #21
Take both off...just take the neg off first and put it back last.

Reason being, if you take off pos first, and hit something..,it will spark because the neg is connected. Remove the neg and car ismdead.


To clear codes and memory, discovpnnect both leads and let sit for 30 mins
 

JenkinsBS

Founding Member
Apr 16, 2002
1,001
1
39
Washington
Aug 18, 2010
#22
  • Aug 18, 2010
  • #22
Alright, i only disconnected the battery for about 10-15 minutes, dont know if that would have done the trick, but driving it now with the MAF i can definatly notice a difference, but somthing still feels off... it may be just that it isnt broken in yet.

I have yet to go over timing, valve adjustment, and checking the tranny fluid... those are still on the to do list.
 

JenkinsBS

Founding Member
Apr 16, 2002
1,001
1
39
Washington
Aug 18, 2010
#23
  • Aug 18, 2010
  • #23
Dumped the codes for sure this time after installing the MAF, disconnected battery for 45 + mins, but the car is still running rich. Ive searched around a bit, but could not really find somthing that matches my condition.

With the new MAF i thought it would take care of the fuel and acceleration issues, but it seems that they may still be there.

This morning as i was driving up a hill, the car started hesitating and actually backfired out the mufflers. A few minutes later, it was fine (still pretty rough and jittery on acceleration)... Im thinking it just wasnt warmed up?

I also noticed that when i was installing my new KNN, that there was quite a bit of oil (all dried up and gooey) inside of the TB tubing that goes to the air cleaner. Does this have somthing to do with having too high oil pressure? Its usually on H on the gauge, then gets a little lower after driving for a while.

I dont think the car is Happy quite yet.
 
H

Haus

Member
Jul 20, 2005
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Aug 18, 2010
#24
  • Aug 18, 2010
  • #24
what codes did you get this time after installing the maf??
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,251
17,936
224
Massachusetts
Aug 18, 2010
#25
  • Aug 18, 2010
  • #25
Shouldn't be any oil in that tube. If there is it's either coming from the k&n or flowing down out of the throttle.

What codes did you get? And did you do the engine running codes?
 
H

Haus

Member
Jul 20, 2005
408
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Aug 18, 2010
#26
  • Aug 18, 2010
  • #26
out of curiosity but when was the last time the PCV valve and screen were replaced?
 

JenkinsBS

Founding Member
Apr 16, 2002
1,001
1
39
Washington
Aug 18, 2010
#27
  • Aug 18, 2010
  • #27
Well, I as of now have not run any codes on it, mainly because i dont know how havnt researched it yet.

As for the PCV valve and screen, i would assume they are brand new, because they were when i gave the car to my Grandpa.

Sounds like i have some exaust leaks, possibly bad o2 sensors, cant trust the place it came from to have used any of the new stuff i gave them though.

So if i have/had oil coming up out the TB, what exactly does that mean? PCV is clogged?
 

JenkinsBS

Founding Member
Apr 16, 2002
1,001
1
39
Washington
Aug 19, 2010
#28
  • Aug 19, 2010
  • #28
So going back to the running rich / acceleration issue mentioned earlier. I think the running rich part may not be an issue, as its ususally only after i start the car, not while driving or when done driving.

so I look at the injectors and each one of them are black... or appear to be black. Im thinking it may just be grimey, so i scratch at it to look for the orange, and nope, no orange, black paint. Now im thinking again back to the piece of **** shop this car was at, and am contemplating buying all new stock injectors. Or am i worring too much?
 
H

Haus

Member
Jul 20, 2005
408
0
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Aug 19, 2010
#29
  • Aug 19, 2010
  • #29
I believe the stock mustang injectors are black and orange. is there any orange on them at all where the connect to the harness and fuel rails??

but you need to check and see if there is any codes and you can do it with a test lamp and jumper wire or paper clip.

look at this link thanks to Jrichker and find out how you can get the codes with out a scanner.

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/698148-help-me-create-surging-idle-checklist.html
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,251
17,936
224
Massachusetts
Aug 19, 2010
#30
  • Aug 19, 2010
  • #30
The bodies are either black, or silver..only the tops where the harness is is orange.

You really need to run the codes. Guessing will only cost you $$


how to pull them here.

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/819324-pulling-codes.html

If you want to buy a reader...i recommend this one

Amazon.com: Equus 3145 Ford Digital Code Reader: Automotive

highly suggest you get the extension cable as well, but not necessary
 

JenkinsBS

Founding Member
Apr 16, 2002
1,001
1
39
Washington
Aug 19, 2010
#31
  • Aug 19, 2010
  • #31
So the code reader looks to be the best option, i dont know if my local proformance shop will have one of these, or somthing that will be able to read these codes, but im checking today.

My only other option is to take it to a ford dealer, i just dont want to pay an arm and a leg plus half a child
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,251
17,936
224
Massachusetts
Aug 19, 2010
#32
  • Aug 19, 2010
  • #32
Autozone might sell a OBD1/EEC4 reader. It will just blink lights however.
 

JenkinsBS

Founding Member
Apr 16, 2002
1,001
1
39
Washington
Aug 19, 2010
#33
  • Aug 19, 2010
  • #33
So just contacted a reputable local shop who can run the codes for me. Headed there after work to see what the damage is going to be.

My guess is bad o2 sensors, bad injectors, and somthing was probibly bypassed or wires cut from the MAF so its not registering properly.

Just driving my car to lunch, i was hesitating and backfiring as i was going up a hill, serious lack of power...
 

JenkinsBS

Founding Member
Apr 16, 2002
1,001
1
39
Washington
Aug 20, 2010
#34
  • Aug 20, 2010
  • #34
Ok, so had a shop take a look and run the codes... comes back completely clean... nothing bad, no problems...

the one thing he did notice, is that even though i have my MAF hooked up and the harness looks like its going back thru the firewall properly, however... when he disconnected the MAP sensor (clipped against the back of the firewall behind the motor) and the idle jumped up considerabaly. To him which means that its not taking the readings from the MAF sensor, but the MAP, which is still confusing the computer...

does this sound like a problem? or does the MAP work in conjunction with the MAF?
 

JenkinsBS

Founding Member
Apr 16, 2002
1,001
1
39
Washington
Aug 20, 2010
#35
  • Aug 20, 2010
  • #35
So im getting backfiring out the intake AND out of the mufflers, not all the time, just at random, and not that often, but it is happening...

If i understand correctly, backfiring out the intake is a lean fuel issue, and out the mufflers is a rich fuel issue... and im having both.

so today im having the fuel filter replaced incase somthing is clogged, and spark plugs incase all the fuel isnt burning... the MAF MAP issue is still getting to me though...
 
H

Haus

Member
Jul 20, 2005
408
0
16
Aug 20, 2010
#36
  • Aug 20, 2010
  • #36
JenkinsBS said:
Ok, so had a shop take a look and run the codes... comes back completely clean... nothing bad, no problems...

the one thing he did notice, is that even though i have my MAF hooked up and the harness looks like its going back thru the firewall properly, however... when he disconnected the MAP sensor (clipped against the back of the firewall behind the motor) and the idle jumped up considerabaly. To him which means that its not taking the readings from the MAF sensor, but the MAP, which is still confusing the computer...

does this sound like a problem? or does the MAP work in conjunction with the MAF?
Click to expand...

So did you get any codes at all? Did you get code 11??
 

golf4283

Active Member
May 30, 2003
1,253
1
39
Orland Park, Illinois
Aug 20, 2010
#37
  • Aug 20, 2010
  • #37
Make sure on the MAP sensor that you removed the vacuum fitting and capped the line off to the engine so you don't lose vacuum. That might be a problem. The MAP sensor is used to evaluate air density or something when used on the MAF instead of engine vacuum I think.
 

JenkinsBS

Founding Member
Apr 16, 2002
1,001
1
39
Washington
Aug 20, 2010
#38
  • Aug 20, 2010
  • #38
@Haus - i didnt see what the code reader said when the tech did it, but he said everything was good. Should it have gotten code 11?

@Golf4283 - do you know if the MAP is even needed when running a MAF setup?
 
H

Haus

Member
Jul 20, 2005
408
0
16
Aug 20, 2010
#39
  • Aug 20, 2010
  • #39
JenkinsBS said:
@Haus - i didnt see what the code reader said when the tech did it, but he said everything was good. Should it have gotten code 11?

@Golf4283 - do you know if the MAP is even needed when running a MAF setup?
Click to expand...

yes. thats a system pass code.
 

JenkinsBS

Founding Member
Apr 16, 2002
1,001
1
39
Washington
Aug 20, 2010
#40
  • Aug 20, 2010
  • #40
Haus said:
yes. thats a system pass code.
Click to expand...

Well, if he said everything was good, id imagine he saw that code come through.

Im still confused on the MAP sensor... is that even needed if i have a MAF hooked up correctly?
 
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