massive amounts of help needed!!!

Something is way out of range for it to be that rich. I would give it a nice tune up (clean MAF, IAC, TB, reset TPS and idle speed, and new 02's). My bet would be the 02's, but I would go through the whole thing because if a few sensors are just out of range a little, they can all add up and 'cause the car to run badly.

dump codes

Look for obvious things like disconnected wires, and especially vacuum leaks, then pull the codes.

w/o the codes you really are shooting in the dark.

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR [[
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.

Wal-Mart may now have the LCD display scanner for less than $35

Allmost 100% positive.Look at your map sensor at the back of your intake to the right on the bulkhead its black with one vacuum line and one connector running to it.replace map sensor and run new vacuum line.That should fix it.i had the same problem on my 87 and it was a kinked vac line.car ran like **** and allmost always stalled always fell on face when pushed gas.yep thats it the map sensor and vac line.

facemelter71 said:

Allmost 100% positive.Look at your map sensor at the back of your intake to the right on the bulkhead its black with one vacuum line and one connector running to it.replace map sensor and run new vacuum line.That should fix it.i had the same problem on my 87 and it was a kinked vac line.car ran like **** and allmost always stalled always fell on face when pushed gas.yep thats it the map sensor and vac line.

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My friend did the same on his horribly running 87 (blew a ton of black smoke) and now it runs like a champ.

yea painless wiring makes that kit your talkin about.but i didnt get your starting prob.what was it.