Mexican Block Gurus come on in...
- Thread starter poneypower89
- Start date
I missed tha part that requires a different oil pan.
For the lifters you may be able to drill and tap the mounting holes for the stock 302 spider, and use the stock lifters. I have done this in a '74 351w block, but don't know how it will work with the mexi 302. Make sure the lifter bores are the same diameter, and make sure you use the right base circle cam.
I have seen bare 351w blocks sell for more than what you can get that 302 for. I would go buy it right now, before the guy changes his mind.
just my point of view.
The imbalance shouln't be an issue, as long as the counter weights clear everything.
For the lifters you may be able to drill and tap the mounting holes for the stock 302 spider, and use the stock lifters. I have done this in a '74 351w block, but don't know how it will work with the mexi 302. Make sure the lifter bores are the same diameter, and make sure you use the right base circle cam.
I have seen bare 351w blocks sell for more than what you can get that 302 for. I would go buy it right now, before the guy changes his mind.
just my point of view.
The imbalance shouln't be an issue, as long as the counter weights clear everything.
vristang said:I missed tha part that requires a different oil pan.
For the lifters you may be able to drill and tap the mounting holes for the stock 302 spider, and use the stock lifters. I have done this in a '74 351w block, but don't know how it will work with the mexi 302. Make sure the lifter bores are the same diameter, and make sure you use the right base circle cam.
I have seen bare 351w blocks sell for more than what you can get that 302 for. I would go buy it right now, before the guy changes his mind.
just my point of view.
The imbalance shouln't be an issue, as long as the counter weights clear everything.
Well, I think im going to go ahead and try to buy the block, but im also going to talk to my machinist to see what he can do as far as preparing it to run the newer cam and such.
I've heard that I can possibly tap the block myself so I can read the oil just like I do now, but that has yet to be confirmed. I'd love to keep the oil pan I already have because its already been tapped for the blower return line.
All work aside from the block prep, will be done by myself and my father whos a mechanic by career and drag racer by sport. That should save some washingtons. He's also a tranny tech so who knows, I might just be able to find a useable flywheel around the shop. If not, our family also owns a JY. I dunno, I just may be able to pull this off but Ill have to get the block and work from there. If it turns out to be a headache it'll end up for sale but I hope it doesnt come to that because I like to be different and I dont see a whole lot of people running the mexican block. Plus, Im sure any decent aftermarket block (save for factory copies) will cost much more in the long run and serve the same purpose as the mexican block.
If anyone else has any pointers please let me know.
OH, and if ANYONE knows of a good website that may have this mexican block walkthrough that would be absolutely awesome. Thanks!
65ShelbyClone
Founding Member
Here is how a Mexican block differs from the regular 302 on the outside:
That and it says "Hecho en Mexico" in the lifter valley. That is the only difference from an early 289/302 besides strength.
If you decide you dont want it, offer it up in the Classic forum. There's more demand for them there since most people have pre-'80s engines.
I've got a 351W std bore non-roller block I might let go
.
That and it says "Hecho en Mexico" in the lifter valley. That is the only difference from an early 289/302 besides strength.
If you decide you dont want it, offer it up in the Classic forum. There's more demand for them there since most people have pre-'80s engines.
I've got a 351W std bore non-roller block I might let go
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On the oil pan difference.
I am assuming that you will be putting the engine in a Fox chassis which has a rear sump. 302 blocks for Fox chassis in the 80's had a indentation and a hole drilled back by the lh 4th main bearing area to accomodate the rear sump dipstick. Any small block from the 70's {including Mexican blocks} did not as most of them had a front sump and timing cover mounted dipstick. There are some exceptions, E series vans and the first couple of years of Foxes, 77-79 Fairmont, Zephyr, 79 Mustang and Capri etc come to mind. For the Fox bodies, Ford had a pan, stick & tube set up that allowed a no hole block to be used. This pan set-up is long discontinued from Ford. I'm sure some aftermarket oil pan companies make one but it will be another expense that you may never think about until you go to put it all together!
That would suck! 
I'm sure a machinist could drill an older block for you but it would also be another expense and a PITA if the hole was not drilled just right!
Fords aint like a Chebbie, us Ford owners gotta think a little when we want to swap engines around!!
I am assuming that you will be putting the engine in a Fox chassis which has a rear sump. 302 blocks for Fox chassis in the 80's had a indentation and a hole drilled back by the lh 4th main bearing area to accomodate the rear sump dipstick. Any small block from the 70's {including Mexican blocks} did not as most of them had a front sump and timing cover mounted dipstick. There are some exceptions, E series vans and the first couple of years of Foxes, 77-79 Fairmont, Zephyr, 79 Mustang and Capri etc come to mind. For the Fox bodies, Ford had a pan, stick & tube set up that allowed a no hole block to be used. This pan set-up is long discontinued from Ford. I'm sure some aftermarket oil pan companies make one but it will be another expense that you may never think about until you go to put it all together!
That would suck! I'm sure a machinist could drill an older block for you but it would also be another expense and a PITA if the hole was not drilled just right!
Fords aint like a Chebbie, us Ford owners gotta think a little when we want to swap engines around!!
Mexican 302 and Mexican 351W blocks r real nice and can hold more fwhp than stock. I would choose either over a Ford Sportmen block.
But I would not run Thumper heads and alphabet cams. AFR 205's, Comp Cam XE282HR, port matched Victor EFI, Scat 4340 forged crank and rods, Ross, SRP, Probe flat tops or dish 9:1 comp.
But I would not run Thumper heads and alphabet cams. AFR 205's, Comp Cam XE282HR, port matched Victor EFI, Scat 4340 forged crank and rods, Ross, SRP, Probe flat tops or dish 9:1 comp.
bobcatv8 said:Fords aint like a Chebbie, us Ford owners gotta think a little when we want to swap engines around!!
Which is exactly the reason I do as much research as possible before I every buy a single thing for this car
Anyways, thanks for the help guys. I wish there were "how-to" manuals for this ya know?
poneypower89 said:Well, I think im going to go ahead and try to buy the block, but im also going to talk to my machinist to see what he can do as far as preparing it to run the newer cam and such.
I've heard that I can possibly tap the block myself so I can read the oil just like I do now, but that has yet to be confirmed. I'd love to keep the oil pan I already have because its already been tapped for the blower return line.
All work aside from the block prep, will be done by myself and my father whos a mechanic by career and drag racer by sport. That should save some washingtons. He's also a tranny tech so who knows, I might just be able to find a useable flywheel around the shop. If not, our family also owns a JY. I dunno, I just may be able to pull this off but Ill have to get the block and work from there. If it turns out to be a headache it'll end up for sale but I hope it doesnt come to that because I like to be different and I dont see a whole lot of people running the mexican block. Plus, Im sure any decent aftermarket block (save for factory copies) will cost much more in the long run and serve the same purpose as the mexican block.
If anyone else has any pointers please let me know.
OH, and if ANYONE knows of a good website that may have this mexican block walkthrough that would be absolutely awesome. Thanks!
So the problem is with the dipstick location? In my opinion that is not a problem. Use the pan with the tapped returns.
It sounds like you have some decent resources at your disposal, so you probably won't need the "Good Luck" that I wish you.
jason
Let us know how it goes.
65ShelbyClone said:Here is how a Mexican block differs from the regular 302 on the outside:
That and it says "Hecho en Mexico" in the lifter valley. That is the only difference from an early 289/302 besides strength.
If you decide you dont want it, offer it up in the Classic forum. There's more demand for them there since most people have pre-'80s engines.
I've got a 351W std bore non-roller block I might let go
Ok, i didnt think of this before... but now that Im looking at it (lets hope im looking at it the right way)... Does anyone know if that extra crap on the left is gonna mess with my blower bracket assembly? Im sure it can modified to fit but Id like to know before the project is underway!
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