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Mexican Block Gurus come on in...

  • Thread starter Thread starter poneypower89
  • Start date Start date Jan 29, 2006
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R

RS200

Member
Sep 23, 2004
95
0
16
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Jan 30, 2006
#21
  • Jan 30, 2006
  • #21
If you don't buy the Mexican block, PM me about it. I'm getting to the point where the stock block just won't cut it anymore.
 

vristang

15 Year Member
Mar 31, 2005
4,933
101
124
Seattle
Jan 31, 2006
#22
  • Jan 31, 2006
  • #22
I missed tha part that requires a different oil pan.

For the lifters you may be able to drill and tap the mounting holes for the stock 302 spider, and use the stock lifters. I have done this in a '74 351w block, but don't know how it will work with the mexi 302. Make sure the lifter bores are the same diameter, and make sure you use the right base circle cam.

I have seen bare 351w blocks sell for more than what you can get that 302 for. I would go buy it right now, before the guy changes his mind.
just my point of view.

The imbalance shouln't be an issue, as long as the counter weights clear everything.
 

poneypower89

Now everyone in the world will know I wanna bang t
Dec 6, 2004
0
3
28
Indianapolis, Indiana
Jan 31, 2006
#23
  • Jan 31, 2006
  • #23
vristang said:
I missed tha part that requires a different oil pan.

For the lifters you may be able to drill and tap the mounting holes for the stock 302 spider, and use the stock lifters. I have done this in a '74 351w block, but don't know how it will work with the mexi 302. Make sure the lifter bores are the same diameter, and make sure you use the right base circle cam.

I have seen bare 351w blocks sell for more than what you can get that 302 for. I would go buy it right now, before the guy changes his mind.
just my point of view.

The imbalance shouln't be an issue, as long as the counter weights clear everything.
Click to expand...

Well, I think im going to go ahead and try to buy the block, but im also going to talk to my machinist to see what he can do as far as preparing it to run the newer cam and such.

I've heard that I can possibly tap the block myself so I can read the oil just like I do now, but that has yet to be confirmed. I'd love to keep the oil pan I already have because its already been tapped for the blower return line.

All work aside from the block prep, will be done by myself and my father whos a mechanic by career and drag racer by sport. That should save some washingtons. He's also a tranny tech so who knows, I might just be able to find a useable flywheel around the shop. If not, our family also owns a JY. I dunno, I just may be able to pull this off but Ill have to get the block and work from there. If it turns out to be a headache it'll end up for sale but I hope it doesnt come to that because I like to be different and I dont see a whole lot of people running the mexican block. Plus, Im sure any decent aftermarket block (save for factory copies) will cost much more in the long run and serve the same purpose as the mexican block.

If anyone else has any pointers please let me know.

OH, and if ANYONE knows of a good website that may have this mexican block walkthrough that would be absolutely awesome. Thanks!
 

65ShelbyClone

Founding Member
Sep 9, 2000
4,675
38
119
Antelope Valley, SoCal
Jan 31, 2006
#24
  • Jan 31, 2006
  • #24
Here is how a Mexican block differs from the regular 302 on the outside:



That and it says "Hecho en Mexico" in the lifter valley. That is the only difference from an early 289/302 besides strength.

If you decide you dont want it, offer it up in the Classic forum. There's more demand for them there since most people have pre-'80s engines.

I've got a 351W std bore non-roller block I might let go .
 

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bobcatv8

Member
Aug 25, 2004
141
1
16
Ocala,FL
Jan 31, 2006
#25
  • Jan 31, 2006
  • #25
On the oil pan difference.
I am assuming that you will be putting the engine in a Fox chassis which has a rear sump. 302 blocks for Fox chassis in the 80's had a indentation and a hole drilled back by the lh 4th main bearing area to accomodate the rear sump dipstick. Any small block from the 70's {including Mexican blocks} did not as most of them had a front sump and timing cover mounted dipstick. There are some exceptions, E series vans and the first couple of years of Foxes, 77-79 Fairmont, Zephyr, 79 Mustang and Capri etc come to mind. For the Fox bodies, Ford had a pan, stick & tube set up that allowed a no hole block to be used. This pan set-up is long discontinued from Ford. I'm sure some aftermarket oil pan companies make one but it will be another expense that you may never think about until you go to put it all together! That would suck!
I'm sure a machinist could drill an older block for you but it would also be another expense and a PITA if the hole was not drilled just right!
Fords aint like a Chebbie, us Ford owners gotta think a little when we want to swap engines around!!
 
3

304billet

Member
Sep 16, 2005
315
0
16
Jan 31, 2006
#26
  • Jan 31, 2006
  • #26
Mexican 302 and Mexican 351W blocks r real nice and can hold more fwhp than stock. I would choose either over a Ford Sportmen block.

But I would not run Thumper heads and alphabet cams. AFR 205's, Comp Cam XE282HR, port matched Victor EFI, Scat 4340 forged crank and rods, Ross, SRP, Probe flat tops or dish 9:1 comp.
 

poneypower89

Now everyone in the world will know I wanna bang t
Dec 6, 2004
0
3
28
Indianapolis, Indiana
Jan 31, 2006
#27
  • Jan 31, 2006
  • #27
bobcatv8 said:
Fords aint like a Chebbie, us Ford owners gotta think a little when we want to swap engines around!!
Click to expand...

Which is exactly the reason I do as much research as possible before I every buy a single thing for this car

Anyways, thanks for the help guys. I wish there were "how-to" manuals for this ya know?
 

vristang

15 Year Member
Mar 31, 2005
4,933
101
124
Seattle
Feb 1, 2006
#28
  • Feb 1, 2006
  • #28
poneypower89 said:
Well, I think im going to go ahead and try to buy the block, but im also going to talk to my machinist to see what he can do as far as preparing it to run the newer cam and such.

I've heard that I can possibly tap the block myself so I can read the oil just like I do now, but that has yet to be confirmed. I'd love to keep the oil pan I already have because its already been tapped for the blower return line.

All work aside from the block prep, will be done by myself and my father whos a mechanic by career and drag racer by sport. That should save some washingtons. He's also a tranny tech so who knows, I might just be able to find a useable flywheel around the shop. If not, our family also owns a JY. I dunno, I just may be able to pull this off but Ill have to get the block and work from there. If it turns out to be a headache it'll end up for sale but I hope it doesnt come to that because I like to be different and I dont see a whole lot of people running the mexican block. Plus, Im sure any decent aftermarket block (save for factory copies) will cost much more in the long run and serve the same purpose as the mexican block.

If anyone else has any pointers please let me know.

OH, and if ANYONE knows of a good website that may have this mexican block walkthrough that would be absolutely awesome. Thanks!
Click to expand...

So the problem is with the dipstick location? In my opinion that is not a problem. Use the pan with the tapped returns.

It sounds like you have some decent resources at your disposal, so you probably won't need the "Good Luck" that I wish you.

jason

Let us know how it goes.
 
R

Redrooster

New Member
Jul 13, 2005
73
0
0
Feb 1, 2006
#29
  • Feb 1, 2006
  • #29
57fairlane said:
The cranks will work. The mains are the same size.
Go with an F-cam for the increased cubic inch size and it being on a 112 with a blower vs. the 110 of the E.

The mexican block is an exceptional piece that IMO is better than the sportsman.
Click to expand...

I think you are off a little on the e-303 being on a 110 lsa.

It would never be an "emmissions friendly cam" at that. its probably a 112 or 114. plus it would lope alot harder if it were a 110 and a e-cam has hardly any noticable lope.
 

poneypower89

Now everyone in the world will know I wanna bang t
Dec 6, 2004
0
3
28
Indianapolis, Indiana
Feb 1, 2006
#30
  • Feb 1, 2006
  • #30
65ShelbyClone said:
Here is how a Mexican block differs from the regular 302 on the outside:



That and it says "Hecho en Mexico" in the lifter valley. That is the only difference from an early 289/302 besides strength.

If you decide you dont want it, offer it up in the Classic forum. There's more demand for them there since most people have pre-'80s engines.

I've got a 351W std bore non-roller block I might let go .
Click to expand...

Ok, i didnt think of this before... but now that Im looking at it (lets hope im looking at it the right way)... Does anyone know if that extra crap on the left is gonna mess with my blower bracket assembly? Im sure it can modified to fit but Id like to know before the project is underway!
 

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M.A.V.

Founding Member
Jun 28, 2002
107
0
16
Georgia
Feb 1, 2006
#31
  • Feb 1, 2006
  • #31
The Main caps are thicker in the Mexican blocks,
 

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