MHS Blower Cams

usaf_branham

15 Year Member
Oct 30, 2008
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Boston
How well would Stage 2.5r MHS Blower Cams work with a Kenne Bell @ 9psi? Also, what rpm range, and what kind of horsepower gain would I be looking at on stock PI Heads.

What is the comparison to the stage 1's rpm / horsepower? My mods are in my sig.

One more thing, if I did happen to upgrade to TFS heads later (and forged shortblock), how well would they work with 15psi?
 
I saw a guy on another forum (can't remember right this second) who is running the MHS Stage I PI blower cams. He has an 01 Bullitt, simple bolt-ons, and a Vortech at about 10 pounds of boost, IIRC. At that level, he was making something like 410 rwhp. He added the MHS cams and long tubes, and went up to 520 rwhp! That is ridiculous. And he was making 400+ ft-lbs of torque from like 3000 rpm up, which is insane for a centri blower at that boost level.

I'm getting my MHS NPI blower cams tuned later this week. So I'll wait till then to say just how well I like them. BUT, I seriously doubt you'd be disappointed in them.
 
Kenne bell says that blower cams are a No-No. My car already made 407/420 with just the KB 9PSI kit. I would just turn the boost up to 11.

That's because they want to sell you another pulley. Why on earth would you NOT want the air moving through your heads more efficiency? More power with less stress on internal parts? Sounds like a win-win to me.

Oh, and I found that thread. Dyno Tuned today

Stage I MHS blower cams, long tubes, x pipe, and power pipe got 110 rwhp. That is ridiculous. Look at that torque curve for a centri!
 
Kenne bell says that blower cams are a No-No. My car already made 407/420 with just the KB 9PSI kit. I would just turn the boost up to 11.

i make 390 / 435 on a super conservative 15* tune. If you look around on the forums or talk to any tuners, most run 18*... i have heard 1* is worth about 10 hp... however, more timing = more strain on our shortblock which is like glass... i would rather run less timing and less boost and increase the overall efficiency of my engine to produce more power.

kenne bell claims that their inlet and manifold etc are engineered to be the most efficient... dont get me wrong handz, kenne bell is imho the best kit money can buy (which is why i bought their kit)... however, they exaggerate the facts so that people will spend their money on kenne bells products... if you get on modularfords.com under the kennebell forum, you will see that people have gasket matched and ported their lower manifolds and have netted considerable gains in horsepower... and dont get me started on turbocooker's inlet for the 2.1... which is not only documented on modularfords, but also was used by MPH.

twinscrew supercharging is wicked efficient. it beats the hell out of a regular roots type blower and im not trying to start an argument, but for my purposes, it beats the hell out of a centri... but that is because i enjoy super low end torque...

(dont flame me here... i have mad respect for centri's... i just prefer positive displacement)

with that being said. i would rather put a set of cams in my car that increase the efficiency of my motor, reducing the strain on my stock shortblock of the added boost of going to a smaller pulley (and in all reality, will probably end up in less boost), and in the end sound awesome too. now, dont get me wrong sir, when i finally go forged, i will have the smallest pulley kennebell makes on my 2.1 and an overdrive crank pulley to give her everything she has.... but until then, i will do the best with what i have and try to make it last...
 
I am honestly curious how Much power these motors can hold.

With my KB 2.1 intercooled kit I made 407/420 to the wheels with 13 degrees of timing.

Just like you i am pully'd for 9psi, but i post 10.5-11psi most of the time.

I honestly want to turn up my boost with a smaller pulley, but dont know how much the motor can take.
 
I am honestly curious how Much power these motors can hold.

With my KB 2.1 intercooled kit I made 407/420 to the wheels with 13 degrees of timing.

Just like you i am pully'd for 9psi, but i post 10.5-11psi most of the time.

I honestly want to turn up my boost with a smaller pulley, but dont know how much the motor can take.

Still haven't posted up a dyno sheet?

I'm sorry Handz, but I just don't buy that. Long tubes and offroad mid-pipes are highly illegal in California, and 10 psi of boost and a CAI are not going to make 407 rwhp. The ONLY way I see that happening is if they are uncorrected numbers with VERY cool air (<40 degrees), or if the dyno was nice and doctored up. On 20+ degrees of timing, I might would believe 400 rwhp with good air and a nice dyno. But on just 13 degrees? No way. With 23 degrees of timing (not even close to safe), Kenne Bell is only showing 405 rwhp on a mostly stock Mustang GT, and you know those numbers are inflated a bit.
 
Still haven't posted up a dyno sheet?

I'm sorry Handz, but I just don't buy that. Long tubes and offroad mid-pipes are highly illegal in California, and 10 psi of boost and a CAI are not going to make 407 rwhp. The ONLY way I see that happening is if they are uncorrected numbers with VERY cool air (<40 degrees), or if the dyno was nice and doctored up. On 20+ degrees of timing, I might would believe 400 rwhp with good air and a nice dyno. But on just 13 degrees? No way. With 23 degrees of timing (not even close to safe), Kenne Bell is only showing 405 rwhp on a mostly stock Mustang GT, and you know those numbers are inflated a bit.

:popcorn:
 
407/420 number are uncorrected with 65 degree weather.

The numbers are spot on. I need to get my Dyno sheet uploaded but those are the numbers.

If you look at other people's numbers with the same kit, they are similar to mine. Its all in the tune.

Plus I have no cats, and i dont just have a CAI, I have the KB Big air kit, 90mm maf, and 75mm TB which makes a BIG difference on a twin screw.

My numbers are uncorrect. i make a little more power than usaf_branham, but he makes more torque.

I honestly dont even care about Dyno numbers cause they are all relative. The dyno is juts a tuning tool.
 
Maybe so, I'm not saying it isn't possible. But I find it hard to believe that it was done on only 13 degrees of timing. That isn't much at all.

You are absolutely right. A dyno is just a tuning tool. I'd love to see what it traps in the 1/4.
 
I have always heard that 425 to 450 is the absolute limit... there is someone running around on the boards that is pushing over 450 with a kenne bell on a stock bottom end... i want to say he is using either a 10lb or 12lb pulley and he has cams. Even he says he is amazed that it is still holding up. Personally, I wouldnt risk putting a smaller pulley on my car. I will just make it breath better to make more power. After I finally do cough up the money for a set of the stage 1 blower cams, if i make over 430 to the wheels, i will have my tuner de-tune it. I will be going forged in the future, but i would rather save for it than to HAVE to buy a new shortblock because i punched windows in the side of the block.

The colder it is outside, the more psi I make. When its above 70, I make 10psi. Below that, I am in the 11 range. I do not have the big air kit, I am running a stock maf, stock throttle body, and a crappy bbk cai w/ k&n filter. I am rounding up a lil on the horsepower. I want to say I actually made 389.8 rwhp or something to that tune, the torque was 435 on the button though. That is through long tubes and a catted x-pipe. I swapped the midpipe out last winter with an offroad h-pipe and i picked up what felt like 20rwhp by my seat of the pants dyno (it also sounded ****ing awesome). Unfortunately, it leaked like a SOB though so I took it back to Summit and got a set of SFC's instead.