mild 289, part II

[WantaGT]

Alright after counting up my funds and such I've realized a 351w is out of question. I can't afford a rebuild and all the parts i would need for the swap. So a 289 or possibly a roller 302 is my motor basis. How's this sound to everybody.
289/roller 302
Weiand stealth intake/Edelbrock rpm air gap (which one?)
600 Holley vac secondaries
Powerheads D0OE heads (1.94/1.60)
custom cam
roller rockers
long tube headers
2.5 inch exhaust
3.55 gears
stall convertor from edge racing convertors

With this will I be able to rip off a 13.99 or faster? thats all I really want. That and about 265 rwhp. what do you all think?

 

[D.Hearne]

What makes you think you can't afford a rebuilt motor? Start with one of the factory rebuilt ones, then check the torque values. Then change the rod bolts, and add the other parts you want. Here locally you can buy a rebuilt short block for $400-500. They're built by City Motor Supply in Dallas Tx and have Silvolite pistons. I did a roller 5.0 like this and it stood up to daily abuse for two years, includung daily 6-7 grand freeway blasts. The weak link ended up not being the workmanship, but Ford's block. Cracked the #4 cylinder wall when rev'd to 7500 rpm's one day.

 

[WantaGT]

i know why i can and can't afford something, it's called a high schooler with limited funds. I worked all summer and I have just enough to do paint, exterior chrome and some engine hop ups. plus i have the 289 in it and a 5.0 roller sitting in the shop...

 

[D.Hearne]

You can afford anything you want, if you know how to work and save for it. Just me personally, but I'd put the roller 5.0 in there before rebuilding the 289. You can always keep the 289 for future sale with the car or part it out to recoup some of the rebuild cost on the 5.0 if it needs it. The difference in power of the roller motor and the 289 is amazing..

 

[WantaGT]

the 289 is already rebuilt but anyways, i was thinking about running the 5.0 because it has the forged pistons and with 58cc chambers shouldn't compression be right around 9.8-10:1?

 

[WantaGT]

oh and what about front dress? like pulley set ups, can i swap my 289 dress to the 289?

 

[D.Hearne]

Don't let just the fact that, that 5.0 has forged pistons ( how do you know they're forged anyway?) influence your decision, cast pistons are fine in 90% of applications anyway. Many of the old factory performance motors had cast pistons too, and that didn't keep them from becoming legends. Nothing at all wrong with running cast pistons unless your going to supercharge or spray it. Just the fact that a piston may be forged doesn't make the motor any more powerful, they're more of a durability upgrade if anything. Compression ratio will depend on the compression height of those pistons. As I've told a couple other guys lately, not all 302/5.0 flattops give you high compression. Many have lower comp heights and resultingly give lower compresion ratios. There's some that fail to reach a 9.0 to 1 ratio with 58 cc heads.

 

[D.Hearne]

oh and what about front dress? like pulley set ups, can i swap my 289 dress to the 289?

HUH?

 

[WantaGT]

what do i do about pulleys, brackets and such (front dress)? also isn't the roller 5.0 balanced different. i think the flywheel and the balancer are different if i remember right.

 

[D.Hearne]

what do i do about pulleys, brackets and such (front dress)? also isn't the roller 5.0 balanced different. i think the flywheel and the balancer are different if i remember right.

The roller 5.0's have a different imbalance factor from the 289's ( 50 oz/in vs the 289's 28 oz/in) As for the front end accessories, you can use either setup. Using the 289's accessories on the 5.0 is a little more involved, you'd need a 3 bolt balancer that's balanced for the 5.0's 50 oz/in. imbalance. These are available from some of the classic Stang suppliers. What 5.0 do you have? Not all are the GT 5.0's, there's also at least 3-4 other versions of the roller 5.0's, depending on what vehicle they were installed in. ( Crown Vic, Lincoln Mark VII or Town car, Pickup truck/Van, Explorer/Mountaineer, etc)

 

[WantaGT]

it's a mustang 5.0 ho

 

[D.Hearne]

If you're on a budget, and the 5.0 short block doesn't need a rebuild, get the heads you listed, leave the GT cam in the short block, get a set of 1.7 ratio roller rockers to improve the lift specs on the GT cam or get a used Ford Racing roller cam ( all are good and can be had cheap right here in the classifieds on StangNet ) Skip the long tube headers and get shorty's or Tri-Y's. You won't know it, but you'll be happier with these over the long tubes, they're a big pain in the ass to deal with ( I know from experience) As for the stall converter, you won't need much over stock with the Ford Racing cams, and you can skip it with the GT cam. All this will give you a good street motor that's easy to live with in day to day driving. What are you putting it in?

 

[WantaGT]

it'll be goin in a 67 mustang. I thought about selling the 5.0 and buying a roller conversion for the 289 so i wouldn't have to deal with the flywheel and balancer issues.

 

[D.Hearne]

The roller conversion will cost you more than the balancer and flywheel.

 

[cornholio]

Coming from someone who is in his 30's now, and "rebuilt" my '66 for the first time in high school, if you don't have the money to do what you want to do, wait, save, and do/get what you want. I know it is frustrating, but be patient and do it right the first and only time.
You will end up spending a fraction of the money doing things only once.
Save and get a 331 or 347 stroker kit. Get that car to 2700 or so lbs and you are flying with 350 horsepower.
Good luck.