Misfiring

[MetalMulisha]

Took my mustang to the shop today for a transmission swap. when i picked it up it was misfiring really bad, only when i was easy on the gas it would run good, or just at idle. I left it at the shop overnight and they said they would call me with the damage in the morning. Thing is that it was running fine before i took it in, i took it in for the transmission now im dealing with the engine.

 

[fast408]

souns like either a ground wire or they pinched a wire by the bell housing where it bolts to the trans

 

[MetalMulisha]

sounds like its gonna be fun finding it

 

[HISSIN50]

No year of stang given.

It could be as simple as the O2 sensors being disconnected.

 

[MetalMulisha]

sorry the car is a 1987 mustang gt

 

[SPEEDYLIFSAVR]

WTF...didnt they road test it when it was done? How could they return it to you like that? I would be livid! Sounds like they just missed something when they were buttoning everything back up . The only electrical connections near the tranny I can think of , like Hissin said , are the O2 sensors . Peek under your car and make sure they are plugged in . Also it could possibly be that they did not adjust your TV/kickdown cable correctly which could mimic a miss if the car is not shifting properly .

 

[MetalMulisha]

tv kickdown?? well i took the car in today and a vacc line was loose but still didnt fix the problem =[ soo what i get when i got in the car i notice its not idling like it used to. it keeps a steady idle but i can tell it doesnt sound right. so when i rev it, it revs ok but when i drive it it pops and sounds like its gonna stall out but right when i let go of the gas or ease on the gas it runs ok again. guy says its my spark plugs or wires but last time i had to change my plugs all that happened was it would studder nothing like back fire.

 

[hotcobra03]

codes?

is the ck engine lite on?was it on?have you checked for any codes even though the lites not on? how about checking the fuses when car is running?

 

[MetalMulisha]

no check engine light on. im thinking of just taking it to the shop in the morning. or just buying a cap rotor, plugs and wires

 

[hotcobra03]

take it back

as a former shop owner..if you came to me and i worked on your car,and gave it back like that ,you would kill me in court..all you need to do is say if didnt do it before you touched it,,,just watch your anger which is hard,,,but just say no fix it..you should win if you stand your ground...the customer is always right type of deal..at least that was how jersey was

 

[MetalMulisha]

should be easy since my gf has worked for a lawyer for 8 years now =], just really want it fixed , ugh ive been looking for a scanner so i can read if theres any codes

 

[MetalMulisha]

well i keep hearing that its a lack of fuel and change my fuel filter? what do you guys think? and where is it located/

 

[HISSIN50]

How would the fuel system become compromised while a trans swap was being done?

 

[MetalMulisha]

maybe from having old gas mixed with new? i remember it was running out so i put 5 gallons in from a gas can

 

[jrichker]

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical

If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see EQUUS DIGITAL FORD CODE READER (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.

 

[MetalMulisha]

wow man thanks for the info, i might stay home from work tomorrow cause this is really bothering me, im asking friends that know about cars, but not so much as much of a ford fan as me, they are telling me spark plugs, cap and rotor, check if they messed up installing my exhaust like the cats. but im wanting to get the scanner tomorrow