Modding a carbd 302.

LaserSVT · May 31, 2009

asecretfile said:
Im running an edelbrock performer rpm lower intake, Holley 650 double pumper, GT40P heads and a F303 cam, I did run the tfs1 cam and it was very streetable and behaved well at low rpms too. (A/C and all) Ran it for a year in Atlanta stop and go traffic...the Weiand Stealth is a great intake also...probably a little better than the one I have actually

Whats the power? What does she run?

Also, when tuning a carb will I need a wideband?

So far I have:
Pro comp 180/58cc heads $650
Weiand Stealth $180
Holley 650DP $350
TFS cam $200
1.6 roller rockers $200
Roller lifters $200

Thats $1780 for H/C/I and will that get me to 300+ rwhp with some long tubes and a high flow catted x-pipe?

306notchback · May 31, 2009

68stang351 said:
A friend of mine has a carbed 88 Coupe with Twisted Wedge heads, roller rockers, a .512/.509 cam (i forget his duration), with a performer RPM and a 600 carb on a stock bottom end.

With drag radials, 4.10's and a five speed, it flies!

I'm sure he'll chime in soon. Where are you 306Notchback?

Im here now! Yeah its got the TW heads with Trickflow 1.6 roller rockers, Comp cam which has just a tad more lift than the Stage 1 trickflow, cheap off the shelf Eldebrock 600 carb, dual plane Performer RPM intake, MSD Pro Billet Distributor! This is a pretty cheap combo but performs really well! I would definately go with a set of aluminum heads either TW or AFR 185's! A dual plane intake will work well and be very steetable with a combo like this. If ur budget allows the Holley double pumper is a good choice or a Demon carb.

BK_CAULEY · May 31, 2009

thought you where getting another cobra

white 89 GT · May 31, 2009

Don`t mess around with cheap china made heads, buy the 165`s stud mount with 1.6 rockers and the intake of your choice.
I ran 12.11@ 112 with a edelbrock performer, I picked up some when I changed to the edelbrock rpm but at rpm levels your not going to see, also like 85 ss coup said try that stealth intake. Most that have them like them.
I will also say I like the anderson cams more than the trick flow stuff.

LaserSVT · May 31, 2009

BK_CAULEY said:
thought you where getting another cobra

Im not getting anything other then screwed.

I want another Mustang really bad! The last 7 months I owned my Cobra all I did was pay huge insurance bills and didnt drive the car at all before the car was stolen
I know I am gonna get screwed more and may not be able to buy one at all. I figured I could prolly get enough together to go back to my roots with a nice 4-eye Fox. I also want one that is not a slug. So I am just trying to see what works and how is the least expensive way to make it quick but still use proven parts.

Looks like heads are gonna be my biggest issue. I like AFR but they cost some coin. If I am gonna swap the heads though I want aluminum to try and balence the nose heavy Fox out.

blackened88lx · May 31, 2009

LaserSVT said:
since I prefer to road course race

Also, what does an 85 T-top weigh in at?

306notchback · May 31, 2009

LaserSVT said:
Im not getting anything other then screwed.

I want another Mustang really bad! The last 7 months I owned my Cobra all I did was pay huge insurance bills and didnt drive the car at all before the car was stolen
I know I am gonna get screwed more and may not be able to buy one at all. I figured I could prolly get enough together to go back to my roots with a nice 4-eye Fox. I also want one that is not a slug. So I am just trying to see what works and how is the least expensive way to make it quick but still use proven parts.

Looks like heads are gonna be my biggest issue. I like AFR but they cost some coin. If I am gonna swap the heads though I want aluminum to try and balence the nose heavy Fox out.

I'd go with Trickflow Twisted Wedge, their nice heads and can be used with stock pistons!

LaserSVT · May 31, 2009

blackened88lx said:

The car will primarily be a weekend toy. Track use would be occasional and I always wanted a T-top car. It would get a shock tower brace, strut tower brace, FLSFCs, CC plates, lower control arms, Pan hard bar and springs before it gets heads and cam.

LaserSVT · May 31, 2009

Here are some teasers. I prolly just jinxed myself by showing what I want to get though.
There are allot of variables to getting it, my father may hate me enough to not give me any of my money at all but as long as I get 1/4th of what I was promised then this is the car I like the most. 1985 GT with the 4-barrel and a T-5. 62,000 original miles and allot of recient work.

This car is in excellent condition. no dents, interior is flawless. In the past two months I have put a brand new clutch, new BF Goodrich tires, the entire breaking system in new, so new rotors, shoes, drums, cylinders, pads, and kit. Also has a brand new water pump, new wires and plugs, new head lights and fog lights, high performance exhaust with a very nice rumble, new shocks in the back, completely rebuilt Holley carburetor with a high performance kit along with new choke, the hydraulics used to lift the hatch are new, also brand new battery as well as solenoid, new fuel pump, new hoses, electric windows and doors. I have receipts to show for it. There are no mechanical problems with this classic.

View attachment 255973
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white 89 GT · May 31, 2009

Quote
Looks like heads are gonna be my biggest issue. I like AFR but they cost some coin. If I am gonna swap the heads though I want aluminum to try and balence the nose heavy Fox out.

Any good part is going to cost you, but you normally only have to do it once.
I had TW heads on my 89 gt and I would go AFR 165`s next time on a 302-310 ci mild built motor.
Look for some used good heads you could save some $$$.

85_SS_302_Coupe · May 31, 2009

Don't half ass the price on heads. If it means you have to save up, get GREAT heads not GOOD heads. If you're not gonna go the cheap route with P heads, get 185s. They'll support a healthy 302 all the way up to a mid level 347. This is why i recommended the 650...it'll work well on a bolt on 302 and a mild 347 so it gives you a lot of room to grow. This way you're not buying new EVERYTHING when you decide to switch combos.

LaserSVT · May 31, 2009

85_SS_302_Coupe said:
Don't half ass the price on heads. If it means you have to save up, get GREAT heads not GOOD heads. If you're not gonna go the cheap route with P heads, get 185s. They'll support a healthy 302 all the way up to a mid level 347. This is why i recommended the 650...it'll work well on a bolt on 302 and a mild 347 so it gives you a lot of room to grow. This way you're not buying new EVERYTHING when you decide to switch combos.

I was just posting on FEP and there are several guys there that have them and love them. Said they would buy them again too. I was told the heads themselves are great but their springs and locks are not. So I can get the bare versions for $420 and buy all the stuff I guess. What do I need? Valves, springs, locks, retainers and seals?

Now if these went for under a grand they would rock!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TFS-...TruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQQsalenotsupported

Modding a carbd 302.

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