Modern Driveline Clutch Cable w/Hedman Elite Shorties

bchampion

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Jun 7, 2004

118

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17

Lafayette, LA

Sep 5, 2008

#1

• Sep 5, 2008

• #1

Well I just fried my Modern Driveline clutch cable in my '68 a couple of weeks ago. I did the T5 swap a little over a year ago so the cable lasted about that long. I'm running Hedman Elite Shorties on my 289, and using the late model bell housing & clutch fork setup. The clutch cable basically rest on the collector for the shorties and that's where the cable got cooked. Is anyone else running this setup? If so, have you fried your cable or did you re-route it some other way? I ordered a new cable and at a $139, I don't want to fry it again. I also ordered some exhaust wrap & cable insulator from Jeg's just in case I can't reroute the cable farther from the headers. I don't see how I can change the routing of the cable because the clutch fork is where it is.

Thanks,

 

tx65coupe

Active Member

Nov 29, 1999

1,551

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Sep 6, 2008

#2

• Sep 6, 2008

• #2

What about making / bending a small bracket that mounts to one of you collector bolts and then attach another nut on the end? I am curious what headers will work with the Modern Driveline clutch cable setup. I am planning on using one of their kits in my Mustang.

 

bchampion

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Jun 7, 2004

118

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17

Lafayette, LA

Sep 6, 2008

#3

• Sep 6, 2008

• #3

Clutch Cable w/Headman Elite Shorties

When I told Bruce over at Modern Driveline what Headers I had and how the cable rubbed up against the collector, he seemed perplexed that I was having problems. Not sure how many others are running my setup, maybe I'm the first....

 

CraigMBA

New Member

Mar 24, 2007

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Orange, CA

Sep 6, 2008

#4

• Sep 6, 2008

• #4

Nothing personal but........



I'm perplexed too. Can you get some shots of the install/cable routing?

 

bchampion

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Jun 7, 2004

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17

Lafayette, LA

Sep 7, 2008

#5

• Sep 7, 2008

• #5

Ok, ok. When the new cable arrives I'll hook it up like I originally had it and snap a few picts & post for you guys w/out a since of vision Just kidding.

Later

 

Decurion

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Sep 28, 2006

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Livonia, MI

Sep 7, 2008

#6

• Sep 7, 2008

• #6

I have the same setup in my Falcon. I put another layer of insulation inside the silver shielding that comes with the cable, then ground the ear down quite a bit on the bellhousing so there would be more room between it and the exhaust, then got some heat shielding and added that to the bellhousing. The cable was beginning to melt before I ground the ear down on the bellhousing, but it seemed like it was doing it mostly when stuck in traffic (woodward dream cruise), but it was fine after a 65 mile trip on the highway. Here is a pic as installed before any grinding. And technically my headers are not Hedmans, but are almost identical.

 

bchampion

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Jun 7, 2004

118

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17

Lafayette, LA

Sep 7, 2008

#7

• Sep 7, 2008

• #7

That's exactly what mine looks like, minus the exhaust wrap on the headers and tie-wraps for the insulator that was shipped w/my kit.

 

tx65coupe

Active Member

Nov 29, 1999

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Sep 8, 2008

#8

• Sep 8, 2008

• #8

I mentioned making a bracket to pull or push it away from the exhaust before. Looking at your picture, it looks like you might be able to make a bracket and mount it to one of your oil pan bolts. If not, is there anything nearby that you can tie wrap it to to pull it away from the exhaust? If you use a stainless tie wrap the heat shouldn't bother it. Did the guy from Modern Driveline say what headers work best with their clutch cable setup?

 

Decurion

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Sep 28, 2006

353

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Livonia, MI

Sep 8, 2008

#9

• Sep 8, 2008

• #9

bchampion said:

That's exactly what mine looks like, minus the exhaust wrap on the headers and tie-wraps for the insulator that was shipped w/my kit.

Click to expand...

See if you can put some heat wrap of some kind around the bellhousing flange where the cable sits. Also, grind it back so there is more breathing room between it and the exhaust. I did a bunch of research when it comes to this combination, and it appears this setup is as good as it gets. I tried a bracket to the oil pan bolts, but that only brought it closer to the flange. Best bet might be to make something coming off of the motor mount to hold it away, otherwise its natural state is about the best position.